Fuming Oak

[Joey Hollifield]

I've watched some videos, etc and it seemed pretty straight forward. I had a oak hollow form that I blew out the side so as to not have a total loss I fumed it for the learning experience. It came out black/dark grey. All the ones I seen from the folks who seem to know what they are doing come out a rich brown. I fumed it for a little less than 24 hours--but I was expecting it to take 48 or more. Any suggestions to achieve the rich "Stickley" brown? Thanks.

 

[David Wrate]

This may be helpful.

The Best Ammonia for Fuming White Oak - FineWoodworking

Comparing the effectiveness of household, janitorial, and industrial-strength ammonia. Learn more about fuming white oak, in this video.

www.finewoodworking.com

 

[Joey Hollifield]

This may be helpful.

The Best Ammonia for Fuming White Oak - FineWoodworking

Comparing the effectiveness of household, janitorial, and industrial-strength ammonia. Learn more about fuming white oak, in this video.

www.finewoodworking.com

thanks, i'll check it out

 

[Barry Richardson]

My guess is you "over cooked" it. I did the same thing the first couple of times, and I only fumed for about 12 hrs, about 6 hours is my fume time now. I use regular household ammonia.... The 72 hour test in the FWW link seems way too long IMO.

 

[R Henrickson]

I've watched some videos, etc and it seemed pretty straight forward. I had a oak hollow form that I blew out the side so as to not have a total loss I fumed it for the learning experience. It came out black/dark grey. All the ones I seen from the folks who seem to know what they are doing come out a rich brown. I fumed it for a little less than 24 hours--but I was expecting it to take 48 or more. Any suggestions to achieve the rich "Stickley" brown? Thanks.

My guess is you "over cooked" it. I did the same thing the first couple of times, and I only fumed for about 12 hrs, about 6 hours is my fume time now. I use regular household ammonia.... The 72 hour test in the FWW link seems way too long IMO.

What type of oak were you fuming? White oak gives far better results than red.

I've used household ammonia for fuming *white* oak for some years. I usually let the fuming go for 48-72 hours. I essentially leave it until the darkening ends. I've never had a color problem. Even with white oak, results can vary considerably from tree to tree -- sometimes intensely dark, sometimes a medium grey-brown. Sapwood tends to go grey -- never darkens much -- and is best avoided.

Red oak usually produces more mediocre results -- not as good darkening, tendency toward odd colors. I usually avoid trying to fume red oak.

I've avoided using anything stronger than household ammonia since I find it barely tolerable to work with. Any stronger would be more difficult (and hazardous) to work with. I've found that 48-72 hours provides darkness penetration of >1/16". I've found no reason to use anything stronger than household strength.

I believe I read that Stickley used both fuming and stain for their finish. I have several 'Mission' chairs from my grandfather's house -- they are a wide range of colors. Given their age, it is hard to know what color they may have been 100 years ago.

 

[Joey Hollifield]

My guess is you "over cooked" it. I did the same thing the first couple of times, and I only fumed for about 12 hrs, about 6 hours is my fume time now. I use regular household ammonia.... The 72 hour test in the FWW link seems way too long IMO.

i think your right. next time i'll start earlier and keep an eye on it. I did use regular ammonia.

 

[Joey Hollifield]

What type of oak were you fuming? White oak gives far better results than red.

I've used household ammonia for fuming *white* oak for some years. I usually let the fuming go for 48-72 hours. I essentially leave it until the darkening ends. I've never had a color problem. Even with white oak, results can vary considerably from tree to tree -- sometimes intensely dark, sometimes a medium grey-brown. Sapwood tends to go grey -- never darkens much -- and is best avoided.

Red oak usually produces more mediocre results -- not as good darkening, tendency toward odd colors. I usually avoid trying to fume red oak.

I've avoided using anything stronger than household ammonia since I find it barely tolerable to work with. Any stronger would be more difficult (and hazardous) to work with. I've found that 48-72 hours provides darkness penetration of >1/16". I've found no reason to use anything stronger than household strength.

I believe I read that Stickley used both fuming and stain for their finish. I have several 'Mission' chairs from my grandfather's house -- they are a wide range of colors. Given their age, it is hard to know what color they may have been 100 years ago.

It was Quercus fusiformis--Texas Live Oak. I used house hold ammonia. I put it in a clear plastic garbage bag mostly in the shade. Maybe the morning sun made the temp inside the bag get too high and super charge the reaction. The form looks as if I painted it with the vinegar/steel wool combo. I will cut the form in half to inspect the depth of penetration. Thanks for the info.

 

[R Henrickson]

It was Quercus fusiformis--Texas Live Oak. I used house hold ammonia. I put it in a clear plastic garbage bag mostly in the shade. Maybe the morning sun made the temp inside the bag get too high and super charge the reaction. The form looks as if I painted it with the vinegar/steel wool combo. I will cut the form in half to inspect the depth of penetration. Thanks for the info.

I use a plastic tote container for fuming. I do all my fuming in the basement, so there is no sunshine and the ambient temperature is 65-75, depending on the time of year.

 

[Barry Richardson]

Hmmm, The one I fumed that got too dark was a segmented white oak vessel, scraps from various sources, and it got too dark in 12 hrs. I use a plastic trash can, put the piece on a block to keep it off the bottom, then pour ammonia in the bottom, and cover the top of the can. I'm wondering if the amount of ammonia used, and how well the seal is has some effect. BTW if you pour ammonia on white oak, it turns almost black quickly, which is what I assume would be the same result if you fumed it a very long time...

 

[Tom Albrecht]

I've watched some videos, etc and it seemed pretty straight forward. I had a oak hollow form that I blew out the side so as to not have a total loss I fumed it for the learning experience. It came out black/dark grey. All the ones I seen from the folks who seem to know what they are doing come out a rich brown. I fumed it for a little less than 24 hours--but I was expecting it to take 48 or more. Any suggestions to achieve the rich "Stickley" brown? Thanks.

How thick was your blown out bowl?

 

[Joey Hollifield]

Tom, 1/4” at top, below the blow out was still solid. I had 2 little Dixie cups of ammonia.

 

[Steve Nix]

I attended Mike Mahoney’s demo at SWAT on quarter sawed white platters and he discussed fuming oak, really nice effect. Any suggestions on where I could be a couple of 16” quarter sawed platter blanks.

 

[Tom Albrecht]

I attended Mike Mahoney’s demo at SWAT on quarter sawed white platters and he discussed fuming oak, really nice effect. Any suggestions on where I could be a couple of 16” quarter sawed platter blanks.

Mahoney sells them on his website. That's where I got mine.

 

[Tom Albrecht]

Tom, 1/4” at top, below the blow out was still solid. I had 2 little Dixie cups of ammonia.

I have made all of my furniture with quarter sawn oak and all of it was fumed with industrial ammonia. I suspect that you overpowered your bowl; too much ammonia, too long an exposure, too small an enclosure. I'm not sure about how temperature may affect it.
Take some scraps and do some tests, you'll get it down soon enough.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

Hmmm, The one I fumed that got too dark was a segmented white oak vessel, scraps from various sources, and it got too dark in 12 hrs. I use a plastic trash can, put the piece on a block to keep it off the bottom, then pour ammonia in the bottom, and cover the top of the can. I'm wondering if the amount of ammonia used, and how well the seal is has some effect. BTW if you pour ammonia on white oak, it turns almost black quickly, which is what I assume would be the same result if you fumed it a very long time...

My logic says that by just pouring the ammonia in the bottom there is more exposure due to the large surface area . Maybe a small container with the ammonia would be better to slow the reaction?

 

[Steve Nix]

Mahoney sells them on his website. That's where I got mine.

Thanks but Not on his website anymore