I have 50+ logs currently that are between 12 and 18 inches in diameter. My bandsaw only goes to 12 " height and my chain saw is too underpowered . Have any of you turners used a froe for splitting logs? I am dubious of using one but right now it is the cheapest solution.
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Froe for splitting
- Thread starter Wayne Spence
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john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
A froe won't work for splitting big longs. Use a sledge and wedges. A froe will work on really straight grained logs but I haven't tried anything over 12". If there is any twist to the grain the Froe is a lot of work. I've had good luck with a couple of metal wedges and some dogwood wedges. I get the metal ones started and if the log doesn't split once I've buried the metal ones, I put the dogwood wedges in. They are almost twice as thick and usually do the job.
If there is twist to the grain they won't lay flat on the bandsaw. Those logs I use the chainsaw but it takes patience because I don't have a very large chainsaw.
If there is twist to the grain they won't lay flat on the bandsaw. Those logs I use the chainsaw but it takes patience because I don't have a very large chainsaw.
Splitting wood with a froe, or wedges, or anything else that mechanically forces the wood apart will work for sure, but the splits will follow the easiest path through the log, so they split following the grain. A froe is really just a long slender wedge, after all, with a lever built into it.
If it's straight grain they will split more or less straight, but if not you won't know what you're going to get until you've got it.
I split smaller stuff with a wedge or maul sometimes, but bigger stuff is easier for me with the chainsaw, especially since I trim the corners off with the same saw and then the blank is ready for lathe mounting without any more ado. That's just my method though.
If your saw is underpowered and you have a log where you suspect wandering grain will give you trouble, you can score the log all around, as deep as you have patience for, to try getting control of where it separates when you split it.
A froe is pretty easy to get stuck in a hard-to-split log, then you have to knock it out and generally wrestle things around. A pain in the neck. Wedges really are more versatile, especially if you have several, so if one sticks you can bang in another somewhere.
It's easier and less frustrating driving another one in than wrestling to get one out.
Some species split easier than others of course, but you know that already. I run through a fair amount of cottonwood, for example, which is next to impossible to split by wedging. Hand grenades maybe, but haven't tried that yet.
If it's straight grain they will split more or less straight, but if not you won't know what you're going to get until you've got it.
I split smaller stuff with a wedge or maul sometimes, but bigger stuff is easier for me with the chainsaw, especially since I trim the corners off with the same saw and then the blank is ready for lathe mounting without any more ado. That's just my method though.
If your saw is underpowered and you have a log where you suspect wandering grain will give you trouble, you can score the log all around, as deep as you have patience for, to try getting control of where it separates when you split it.
A froe is pretty easy to get stuck in a hard-to-split log, then you have to knock it out and generally wrestle things around. A pain in the neck. Wedges really are more versatile, especially if you have several, so if one sticks you can bang in another somewhere.
It's easier and less frustrating driving another one in than wrestling to get one out.
Some species split easier than others of course, but you know that already. I run through a fair amount of cottonwood, for example, which is next to impossible to split by wedging. Hand grenades maybe, but haven't tried that yet.
Richard Baker
RIP
Have also used wedges and sledge in the past, due to similarly under-performing chainsaw. Doubt that a froe would be successful on logs that size.
I saw a guy split 16' white oak logs by making a large wedge out of the a chuck of oak. It was like a pie wedge out of the tree. He started the split at one end and then use a couple of these wooden wedges he split the rest of the log much easier than could be done with the steel type. Pretty slick trick. Saved money and energy. 😀
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Temple Blackwood uses a froe to make blanks for rocking chair parts.
I know he has made more than 100 of these chairs. most of the parts are turned.
I've seen Temple split 2x2 blanks from 3 foot walnut. Temple prefers the froe as the resulting blanks have the same grain running the length.
Also he can make the blanks a lot faster than I could band saw them.
Walnut is relatively easy to split.
I know he has made more than 100 of these chairs. most of the parts are turned.
I've seen Temple split 2x2 blanks from 3 foot walnut. Temple prefers the froe as the resulting blanks have the same grain running the length.
Also he can make the blanks a lot faster than I could band saw them.
Walnut is relatively easy to split.
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Splitting really big big logs
In the 90s The Chesapeake Woodturners took a field trip to Hearne Hardwood in PA.
They had a problem similar to yours A 4-5 thick white oak log and a 3 foot capacity on the saw.
Some kindly Amish gentleman came to the rescue.
He stood on the 8 foot log and made a boring cut in the center to the middle of the log. He then pushed the end of a fuse into the hole with a rod, poured in a slurpy cup of black powder, tamped in a rag with the rod. lit the fuse and hid behind a bull dozer.
The powder cooked off and made a muffled bang. and after a dramatic pause the log fell open into two halves.
of coarse we all know how easy white oak is to split.
-Al
In the 90s The Chesapeake Woodturners took a field trip to Hearne Hardwood in PA.
They had a problem similar to yours A 4-5 thick white oak log and a 3 foot capacity on the saw.
Some kindly Amish gentleman came to the rescue.
He stood on the 8 foot log and made a boring cut in the center to the middle of the log. He then pushed the end of a fuse into the hole with a rod, poured in a slurpy cup of black powder, tamped in a rag with the rod. lit the fuse and hid behind a bull dozer.
The powder cooked off and made a muffled bang. and after a dramatic pause the log fell open into two halves.
of coarse we all know how easy white oak is to split.
-Al
You can get a different chain for your chain saw, one that is made for ripping, most chain saw chains are for cross cutting and do not rip well but there are companys that handle the rip chains. If you find the right dealer that knows what you are talking about they can order them for you. used to be a chain saw company in San Antonio Texas that kept them in stock.( B&G I think it has been too long I am not sure any more)
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As others have said, more or less, a froe is for shingles and boards. Two wedges and some gluts is the way to do large stuff if it's of any length. Look for heart checks and use them to establish your line, put the wedges an inch inside the bark in line and rap alternately. Once the thing begins to open, use a couple of wooden gluts in the center. If the pieces are long, use the wedges in either side, walking down the log.
One reason the froe doesn't work too well up the center of a log is that the branches originate there. They don't pry worth a squat, though wedges (or a hatchet) will cut them if you open the gap with the gluts.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
Red Neck wood splitting.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kldc_R9yfmQ&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kldc_R9yfmQ&feature=related
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
True story. I was camping one weekend in the Smokies and a guy was trying to split a log about 3 feet long and 14" in diameter. He was using 3/4 length ax and it was putting little dents in the end of the log which was sitting upright. His wife told him, why don't you yell like they do in Karate. So he would swing as hard as he could, hit the log, and then yell. He must have done this about 10 times before I quit laughing long enough to go over with my big ax and split it for him.
I have split logs for bowl blanks before I had the proper saw, and it does work, but leaves a rather rough surface for mounting a face plate. You can do it and flatten out the surface with a sharp axe (I did watch Roy Underhill a lot). Getting the right chain and having it sharp could be the problem rather than just being under powered, but if you are really going to get into this you may want to consider another chain saw. Some times you can rent one as well, but one place here in town would rent you the saw, but you had to buy the chain.
robo hippy
robo hippy
Splitting with froe
I got out my grandfathers railroad tie adze with 11 inch blade. Using a 5 lb sledge I split 4 twelve inchers in less than 15 minutes. Yes, the surfaces are rough and I can take a rt angle grinder with Lancelot blade and a hand plane and make a flat surface for a faceplate. HOWEVER, the best alternative seems to be a decent chain saw. I have found a used electric Stihl for $300, new price $650 and will take a look at it this week.
I got out my grandfathers railroad tie adze with 11 inch blade. Using a 5 lb sledge I split 4 twelve inchers in less than 15 minutes. Yes, the surfaces are rough and I can take a rt angle grinder with Lancelot blade and a hand plane and make a flat surface for a faceplate. HOWEVER, the best alternative seems to be a decent chain saw. I have found a used electric Stihl for $300, new price $650 and will take a look at it this week.
Correction
Twas a broad axe, not an adze.
Twas a broad axe, not an adze.
A few years back a froe seemed like a good idea to me, but it didn't work out as planned. As stated, it doesn't work on larger stock.
I still occasionally use it to spit or break down smaller stock in the shop when I don't want to break out the electric chainsaw or use the bandsaw. In some cases you have more control using a froe. It's especially usefull if the stock has started to split.
Two suggestons:
1: Keep the edge sharp like an axe.
2: Keep a firm grip on the handle when you stike the blade. FWIW, I read that when you stike the blade, the handle can whip back at your face. It's never happened to me, but it's something to keep in mind.
Good luck,
Frank
I still occasionally use it to spit or break down smaller stock in the shop when I don't want to break out the electric chainsaw or use the bandsaw. In some cases you have more control using a froe. It's especially usefull if the stock has started to split.
Two suggestons:
1: Keep the edge sharp like an axe.
2: Keep a firm grip on the handle when you stike the blade. FWIW, I read that when you stike the blade, the handle can whip back at your face. It's never happened to me, but it's something to keep in mind.
Good luck,
Frank
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