• January Turning Challenge: Thin-Stemmed Something! (click here for details)
  • Conversations are now Direct Messages (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Scott Gordon for "Orb Ligneus" being selected as Turning of the Week for January 20, 2025 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Floor finish for shop

Joined
Apr 5, 2011
Messages
373
Likes
199
Location
Delray Beach, FL
The garage I will be using as a shop has a worn paint finish (Water based or solvent based I don’t know) over cement that is many years old. It is worn where hot tires parked but otherwise sound.

I have been looking at various types of finishes and talking to people. What I have found so far is that;

1 The do it yourself 2 part epoxy products are thinner (2.5 mils vs up to 12 mils) then the professional types due to the water based carrier. However the professional types are nasty to put down yourself.

2 The paint type "1 part epoxy" has no curing agent so are they real epoxy or just epoxy filler?

3 Can I put down these above types of finishes over paint and if so what is the preparation required?

4 Any experience with the above, either installing or its wear?

5 Those of you who have just paint over concrete what kind of paint, if you remember, and how is it holding up?

Thanks Stu
 
My experience is limited to the serious adverse health effects of unthinking employees using professional 2 part epoxy paint at the direction of an uncaring employer. The proper protective gear is a 'space suit' such as seen on scary virus movies. OK, its really a PAPR hood over a tyvek suit, but it's still scary stuff.
 
Don't have experience wityh the epoxy floor finishes, but a few years ago the floor in our studio needed a new finish. The maintenance supervisor at the business park reccommended a commercial alkyd enamel. They've been using it on floors for years. Wears well, easy o apply, looks great.
 
Thanks for the reply

I did not want to go with the commercial epoxy due to the extensive preparation plus the lung damage.

The home type epoxy looked to have the same preparation but not the extra toughness. As I will not park a car on it, except with cool tires for long term storage, it is not required.

I will give it a good scraping and cleaning and go with a good floor alkyd enamel.

Stu
 
2 part Apoxy

Ten years ago I put down 2 part apoxy I bought at Lowes. It came with white and black flakes that you scatter. It still looks great. I think I paid about $80 a gallon and needed two gallons for my shop.(750 SF) I would recommend pressure washing the floor first. Paul M. Kaplowitz
 
Make sure that whatever finish you use isn't slick. I have seen some floor finishes that would be slick when wet or with sawdust or shavings on the floor. My shop is concrete and will stay concrete. Even at that, I came in one time with wet flip-flops and almost went down!
 
A finish from the 40's

A finish I have used several times over the years as I have moved around the country is one my father used in WWII. First clean the floor and sand to remove old paint. Second, roll on a coat of battleship gray concrete paint. Next apply a second coat of paint with some white to lighten it some. Mixed with beach sand for some traction. While it was still wet I used an old fashion flower sifter. The type with a crank or lever to sift with, to apply more fine sand to the wet paint. When dry, use a stiff floor brume to remove loose the loose sand.

Cheep but effective.
 
Back
Top