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First chuck

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I have an old 11" delta lathe, I'm just getting into turining, and I'm ready to buy my first chuck. Looked at the Sears 3-jaw scroll chuck for $99, but wanted to get some educated opinions on whether this would be a good beginner chuck, or should I be looking for something else. I'd like to get into turning bowls, but this lathe isn't huge, so they would be limited in size. Any opinions on an economical first chuck, what to look for, and what I'd be giving up that I might regret later.
 
Consider the Grizzly knock-off of the VM-100 chuck...

I have an old 11" delta lathe, I'm just getting into turining, and I'm ready to buy my first chuck. Looked at the Sears 3-jaw scroll chuck for $99, but wanted to get some educated opinions on whether this would be a good beginner chuck, or should I be looking for something else. I'd like to get into turning bowls, but this lathe isn't huge, so they would be limited in size. Any opinions on an economical first chuck, what to look for, and what I'd be giving up that I might regret later.

Rick:

You already seem to have good instincts....

My opinion is that you would be wasting your money spending it on a Sears 3-jaw chuck for woodturning.....

For the same $ 99 you could buy a Grizzly knock-off of the Vicmarc 100 [4-jaw] chuck, and you would be MUCH better off in the long-run. For woodturning, go with 4-jaw chucks, even though there may be several inexpensive 3-jaw chucks[which are primarily for metalworking] available from discount stores, eBay, and on the Internet. Stay away from these. (Before you order ANY chuck, be sure to check the lathe spindle size - I think for the old Delta 11", the spindle is 1" x 8 tpi - be sure to confirm this!)

Additional money can get you a range of chucks from Oneway, Vicmarc, Teknatool, Penn State, and perhaps others. Like anything else in woodturning, how much you are able or willing to spend on a tool will dictate the tool's quality level, at least to some extent. The "which chuck to buy" question seemingly arises every few weeks, so you could do a thread search on past posts to read many opinions on the different chucks available. Turners have their favorite brands, and loyally stick to them, myself included (I'm a Vicmarc guy, the conceptual woodturning equivalent of being a "leg man"). What IS important is that the chuck you buy works correctly and safely, while being convenient to use both in function and in accessories available (i.e. different jaw sets).

The reason I suggest going the Grizzly 'Vicmarc 100 knock-off' route is that you still will get a functional chuck as is, out of the box, AND, should you need to expand your work-holding capabilities, you'll be able to use any VM-100 accessories on the Grizzly chuck. Just trying to maximize versatility for the initial $ 99 outlay....

Good luck with your decision!

Turn safely!

Rob Wallace
 
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Thanks

I appreciate your feedback, I'll search and collect more intel and it sounds like I can't go wrong with investing in the Grizzly Vicmarc knockoff for now.
 
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Rick,
Another vote for the $99 Grizzly chuck. I have two with different jaw sets. Only had one when I got a bigger lathe, and got a new insert to fit the chuck to the new lathe for about $20. They grip the wood securely and cause it to rotate when the lathe is turned on. That pretty much does it for me.
 
I have one of the Grizzly chucks as well as 2 more Vicmarc that look the same. I think it's well worth the money. Another good one is the PSI chuck for $200 from Penn state ind. They give you 4 sets of jaws a screw chuck and a drive center plus a nice plastic storage case.
On the other hand the 3 jaw chucks that sears sells for wood are not very useful. They don't hole wood well except for small round pieces. There were designed to hold metal and tend to crush the wood and then it wobbles and comes out.
 
Another vote for Grizzly. Although not listed as a feature, it has index slots available when/if you get into that. Also, with the two extra jaw sets at about $20 each, the full range should be good for just about anything until you need a bigger lathe. There's a tiny gap in the range, which you won't notice until you need to modify a tenon or socket. The T-handle adjustment is more intuitive than Tommy bars, IMHO.

Interchangeability of jaws among manufacturers should be taken with a grain of salt. I suggest you don't let that drive your decision.

Joe
 
Lots of options.

You want one with a removable insert so you can move to another lathe if you want.

You want one that has the jaws you use. I consider pin jaws a real asset, so unless the chuck has a good set, and the long spigot capability they bring, I'd pass.

You want the one that will allow any jaws you acquire to fit on the next body you buy. Important, because if you start turning more, you'll get to hate changing jaws with a project in progress. If you get a bigger lathe, you might want a bigger body.

For me the dovetail type with smooth surfaces are the best jaws. They allow me more options. If you get the kind that force you toward tenons alone, be sure and get some form of reverse mounting capability to clean off your tenon.
 
I'm new to all of this and recently acquired a Jet 1236 lathe, so I'm looking for a chuck too.

The CSUSA deal looks pretty good... which do folk prefer for this type/size of lathe... the SuperNova2 or the G3?

The Barracuda deal at PSI also looks pretty good, lots of jaws in the set.

Grizzly pricing seems like their selling point.

Laguna also has a sale on something that looks like a VicMarc clone.

However I'm mostly interested in how the chucks behave in use. Are all of these comparable? Any of them outstanding?

Looks like several good options and pricing... all reccomendations are welcome.
 
I can barely tell the difference between my Vicamarc and the Grizzly. The Griz seems to rust easier and the tool handles you get seem cheaper but they do work. There is a tiny bit more slop in the jaws but it doesn't seem to affect how it performs in actual use at all.
The PSI chuck from Penn State seems to work quite well. It's a little gawdy looking since it's gold but all the jaws work well. My only concern is the key. It is a geared key and it seems like it would be easy to torque the wrench sideways which would wear the gears.
I used the Big PSI chick that uses a hex key when I was demoing for the club. This is a really nice chuck but kind of large for a mini.
All of the Nova chucks I have worked on seem well made and work just fine.
One thing to consider is will the chuck take all of the sizes of inserts. Some won't so if you upgrade to a lathe that has a larger spindle you may be screwed. A good quality chuck could easily be considered a lifetime purchase. That makes the expense considerably less if you look at it over a 10 year period. It's not like tools that you will use up or a lathe that you will upgrade. A good chuck will just keep on being useful if it has a wide range of jaws and a wide range of inserts. Buy the best one you can, it will pay off in the longrun.
 
First Chuck Sale!

Rick, I just received an email from Craft Supplies which states they are having a special sale of the Super Nova or G3 chuck to include 4 sets of jaws. This is an indicated savings of $180. Not a bad deal. Worth looking at.

Bill
 
Thanks again

You guys are great. Plenty of great information being provided and my price point really improved based on some of the deals that were mentioned. 4 sets of jaws included in the price sounds like the way to get into this in a big way, and now I'm leaning towards the Craft supplies Nova G3 for $139 with the 4 sets of jaws included.

Rick
 
You guys are great. Plenty of great information being provided and my price point really improved based on some of the deals that were mentioned. 4 sets of jaws included in the price sounds like the way to get into this in a big way, and now I'm leaning towards the Craft supplies Nova G3 for $139 with the 4 sets of jaws included.

Rick

Rick, glad to be of help. Hope you get the chuck you can use for quite awhile.

Bill
 
I'm leaning towards the CSUSA deal too... perhaps the SuperNova2. Is the closed back significant? I don't recall if there's a size difference between the G3 and the SuperNova2 chuck.

Also add to the price a thread adaptor insert... in my case 1"x8 about another $20
 
Chuck comparison.

I'm leaning towards the CSUSA deal too... perhaps the SuperNova2. Is the closed back significant? I don't recall if there's a size difference between the G3 and the SuperNova2 chuck.

Also add to the price a thread adaptor insert... in my case 1"x8 about another $20

Alan, I have not ever used the Nova chucks. I have 3 Vicmarcs and 3 Oneway chucks. I prefer the Vicmarc closed back style using the allen type wrench to tighten, but that is a personal matter. I use the Oneway chucks without any problems. I prefer the Vicmarc jaws and mass for larger turnings. The Super Nova appears to image the Vicmarc while the G3 mirrors the Oneway Talon. I think the main question would be that of the one which would fit your particular lathe the best. If you have a mini, then the Super Nova may be too much chuck.

Ask those people at CSUSA your question. They are very honest and easy to deal with. Maybe someone else can chime in here as well. Hope I have not confused you further.

Bill
 
Bill,

Thanks for the feedback. My Jet lathe is 12 x 36 with a 3/4HP motor... so it's not a mini, but not a monster either.
 
I just spoke with CSUSA and they actually suggest the G3 chuck for lathes under 14". Their feeling was that the heavier SuperNova2 puts too much strain on the motor/bearings. I think this is Teknatools recommendation also.

HOWEVER, the sale is over. They ran out of the extra jaw sets for the promotion, and now it's back to regular pricing. Sale started last night, and they were surprised by the number of orders that came in so quickly.

Now it's back to deciding among the other deals, or wait and see if they'll run another sale.
 
One thing to note about Teknatool chucks is they tighten backwards, that is counter-clockwise. While most people don't seem to be bother by this, I was and ended up in the Talon/Stronghold camp. I have a Vicmarc on the way. If that system works out I may pick up another.

Burt
 
Nova Chuck.

I just spoke with CSUSA and they actually suggest the G3 chuck for lathes under 14". Their feeling was that the heavier SuperNova2 puts too much strain on the motor/bearings. I think this is Teknatools recommendation also.

HOWEVER, the sale is over. They ran out of the extra jaw sets for the promotion, and now it's back to regular pricing. Sale started last night, and they were surprised by the number of orders that came in so quickly.

Now it's back to deciding among the other deals, or wait and see if they'll run another sale.

Alan, what a bummer. Sorry about that. Sounds like they were trying to unload these, maybe for the reason Burt states. Well, guess it will be back to the drawing board.

Bill
 
One thing to note about Teknatool chucks is they tighten backwards, that is counter-clockwise. While most people don't seem to be bother by this, I was and ended up in the Talon/Stronghold camp. I have a Vicmarc on the way. If that system works out I may pick up another.

Burt

Burt, I have all 3 Oneway's, Stronghold, Oneway lever action and the Talon. I still use all three. I also have 3 Vicmarc's, VM100, VM120 and VM140. The VM140 is no longer made but is really beafy and well made lever action for turning very large blanks. Would not part with it. The 100 and 120 mirror the size of the Stronghold and Talon, but are much more beafy and have jaws that I prefer. You will not go wrong there and may not use your Oneway's very much. I guarantee you will like the Vicmarc.

Bill
 
One thing to note about Teknatool chucks is they tighten backwards, that is counter-clockwise. While most people don't seem to be bother by this, I was and ended up in the Talon/Stronghold camp. I have a Vicmarc on the way. If that system works out I may pick up another.

I bought a left tilt tablesaw, and it took over a year for me to remember that it was "righty tighty." Of course, what Burt means to say is that the jaws do not contract when the key is turned clockwise. They do tighten in the recess, however. Lefty Lucy just doesn't spread 'em for Chuck.

Sad to say, I think that CSUSA unloaded a bunch of bad sellers. The step jaws are an invitation to throw for all but the most capable, the 4" too large for most work, the tenon-crunchers too narrow, and the 1" jaws aren't really useful. Now the 1" pin jaws, which do all they do plus, are definitely worth it.

They're nice chucks, the Novas, but the extra jaws were no bargain in my estimation. I own three of them, and the only one I ever really use are the 4" which came with my Super. Box lids and such are where they come in handy.
 
Bill,

Thanks for the feedback. My Jet lathe is 12 x 36 with a 3/4HP motor... so it's not a mini, but not a monster either.

Alan, my wife and I own 3 lathes. I started out on the Jet 12-36 that you have. I used it for a long while but was tired of only being able to turn 12" max diameter and that the lathe is really too light. So, I finally bit the bullet and purchased a lathe that I hope will last me for the rest of my turning days, the Oneway 2436. I am very pleased with it and it performs everything that I ask of it without balking. When you decide to move up, don't waste time with other intermediate lathes, save and get the one you really want in the end. It will save you money in the long run, or cost you more by allowing you to do things you would not have thought you would ever do.

Bill
 
Bill,

Thanks for your thoughts on the 1236. It will likely serve me well for a while... then I can start lusting after heavier metal.
 
lefty lucy

[QUOTE=MichaelMouse;4 Lefty Lucy just doesn't spread 'em for Chuck.


Michael!!!!!!!!Not bad for an old guy-this old girl caught it!!😉 Gretch
 
Michael!!!!!!!!Not bad for an old guy-this old girl caught it!!😉 Gretch

A mnemonic should be something you won't forget, and those who get this one will have trouble doing exactly that.
 
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