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Finishing

M

Mr. Don

Joined
Jan 31, 2006
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Location
Gaston, Oregon
I was "volunteered" by my niece to refinish an old oak drop-leaf table for her new home. Well, I do O.K. on round stuff, but when it comes to flat work I am lost!!! Got it sanded, repairs (dings, scratches, etc.) done, watered to raise grain, and final sanded to 360 grit, and stained using Min-wax oil based stain. came out nice. My question is how to go from here??? Apply tung oil, or danish oil? (she wants an oil finish, not glossy) and top off with a good satin wax??? I know this is a turner's site, but maybe someone can help me.
 
If I were doing it, I would now use the Minwax Wipe on Polyurethane finish. Several light coats. This will give excellent protection without the problem of a wet glass leaving water circles after being left sitting on the surface.

My $0.02 worth - You asked!!

Wilford
 
I would agree with Wilford. I've been playing with that stuff a lot in the last 3 or 4 months and it sure works well. I apply a layer, let it dry and then a light 4/0 steel wool. Then apply another layer and do the same thing. I may do 4 layers. On turning I buff it with the Beal. On the one flat piece I've done I steel wooled the last layer and then rubbed on Johnsons paste wax. It left a really nice slightly above satin finish. When I have time I'll try rubbing out a finish to see how glossy I can make it that way. It is not a pore filling finish. You will have to fill the pores with some other finish or pore filler if you want that glass smooth look. I thought it left the wood with a very natural look.
 
I'm much more of a cabinet/furniture maker than a turner.

I really like tung oil for table surfaces. Brush on a layer, let sit a few minutes, and wipe it off. Lightly buff with a fine scotch brite pad. Repeat once or twice more over the next two days.

For the last coat, apply a light layer and rub it in. Let it sit 10-15 minutes. Buff it good with an old t-shirt.

Then you have a nice durable finish without the plasticized look of others.
 
I am a big fan of Old Master's Gel Varnish for flatwork. You wipe it on, wait a few minutes, then wipe it off. It dries fast with no dust particles. A couple layers, and you have a thin, protective layer that doesn't look plastic. It also doesn't smell for very long like some other finishes. Give it a week or two, and it's ready for the house. I'm going to try it on my turnings later this week.
 
I have been using this for a few years and I highly recommend it. Very easy to use and it provides a very nice rich look.
Richard
 

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Now that you have used the Minwax stain you can continue with the Minwax natural. I did a piece of furniture of cherry over 20 years ago using 6 coats of Minwax natural. I have set all kinds of things on it and it is as beautiful today as it ever was. Seems not many people give credit to the basic Minwax natural. After all it is an oil finish. Tung oil is probably better but I have not found much difference in the long term durability.
 
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