Is there any reason that most of the "instructional" videos show the turner applying finish while on the lathe. I understand if they are using a friction finish but assume that non friction finishes could be used off the lathe to a completed box.
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Finishing turner boxes
- Thread starter cwearing
- Start date
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
I apply finish on boxes after they are off the lathe. The friction polishes I've used are not as durable as some other finishes and boxes are handled a lot. I use Minwax wipe on poly or a spray lacquer.
Correct me if I'm wrong, I think Richard Raffen did the first video on box turning.
He uses an oil and wax finish on a lot of his work. It is easier to apply this type of finish while on the lathe.
You can use any type of finish to finish a box, on or off the lathe.
Jim
He uses an oil and wax finish on a lot of his work. It is easier to apply this type of finish while on the lathe.
You can use any type of finish to finish a box, on or off the lathe.
Jim
Steve Worcester
Admin Emeritus
depends om the finish. I used to use thinned lacquer and apply it on the lathe regularly.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
I also use thin lacquer and apply it on the lathe. On some pieces it's good just like that. On others I spray afterwords. applying the thinned lacquer while on the lathe seems to reduce the number of coats needed when I spray. Also shows up imperfections that need to be taken care of.
John's imperfections
john lucas; applying the thinned lacquer while on the lathe seems to reduce the number of coats needed when I spray. Also shows up imperfections that need to be taken care of.[/QUOTE said:
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
Gretch I was referring or course to other peoples work. 🙂
If the lathe isn't committed to another project, an auxiliary rotisserie drive can allow spray finishing, as heavy as you like (within reason), without drips or runs. Here's an example (msg #7): http://www.aawforum.org/vbforum/showthread.php?t=8905
I have another stand-alone version for similar work. They're about 5.5 & 6 rpm.
For both of these, the drip/run advances downhill until it solidifies, so don't overdo it. With polyurethane finishes, about 1/2 hour between coats works well. Beyond two hours, a 3-day delay and intermediate sanding is advised by Minwax.
If your power supply is unreliable, an auxiliary generator is convenient.
I have another stand-alone version for similar work. They're about 5.5 & 6 rpm.
For both of these, the drip/run advances downhill until it solidifies, so don't overdo it. With polyurethane finishes, about 1/2 hour between coats works well. Beyond two hours, a 3-day delay and intermediate sanding is advised by Minwax.
If your power supply is unreliable, an auxiliary generator is convenient.
John,
Would you share your application technique and how much you thin?
Thanks.
Rich
Would you share your application technique and how much you thin?
Thanks.
Rich
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
Richard I thin it about 50/50 with lacquer thinner. It varies depending on whether it builds as much as I want. What I'm looking for is to apply it without leaving streaks but enough to have finish on it. If it leaves streaks I thin it a little more. You can get rid of some streaks by putting just a drop or two on a rag and rubbing it on the spinning turning. It's sort of like French polishing at that time.
I apply a couple of coats. For some projects that's all I need. Sometimes I'll buff very lightly with the Beal system. For glossy work I will spray lacquer. The early application of lacquer on the lathe reduces the number of coats I have to apply to get a really glossy finish.
I apply a couple of coats. For some projects that's all I need. Sometimes I'll buff very lightly with the Beal system. For glossy work I will spray lacquer. The early application of lacquer on the lathe reduces the number of coats I have to apply to get a really glossy finish.
Thanks, John.
R
R