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Finishing Questions on bowl turnings ?

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Jan 31, 2009
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I had some free time today that i could experiment around in the garage with my wood projects and had a couple questions about finishing

Picture 1 - Used a cracked bowl that i repaired to try some alcohol based dye on - two coats - sanded lightly with 400 - 3 coats of semi gloss laquer (000 between coats) - will let dry and buff with white diamond and carnuba in a week or so.......one thing i noticed on the inside lip was a little patch of punky type area that i missed when sanding and boy does it show up with the dye on it (<-lesson learned). It was a scrap bowl anyway but i see that you can darken with additional coats and lighten back up with light sanding (or you could turn it lightly to i suppose). It did seem to raise the grain a bit so the 400 or better light sanding is a must. Mixing it yourself with alcohol gives you the ability to make it stronger or add alcohol to make it lighter - mixing only enough for the project as it does evaporate eventually - found that out when i let it sit and came back later....LOL .......anybody else experimenting with wood dyes (analine type) ???

Picture 2 - Natural edge i finished in one turning and submerged into oil for 3 days - then out and wiped down and standing at the moment (wanting to see if it will or will not crack) Tenon still on and will wet sand with oil and let stand and apply finish later - undecided at the moment how to finish it but im thinking a couple wet sanded coats of antique oil and semi gloss laquer 2-3 coats and buff........thoughts ?

Pictures 3 & 4 - I have no idea what kind of wood this is my brother in law sent it to me to make him a bowl and he had no idea either.....I finished turned it and sanded thru 400........submerged in oil for 3 days and out to dry right now in the picture - it does not look all that great in the picture but this wood has some interesting pockets and inclusions all over it.......I am not going to buff it because of the pockets .......This one im a bit stuck on how to finish it out............I was thinking of letting it dry for a week and using spray acrylic - couple coats but it does not seem that it may be the best idea..............thoughts ???
 

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Dan,
Just some thoughts on lacquer finishing. No need to sand or steel wool between coats, as lacquer dissolves into itself as successive coats are applied. When ready for the final one or two spray coats you can smooth with 0000 steel wool or wet sand level with 400 or 600. Then carefully spray the last coat or two.
 
It is pretty easy to burn through a couple of coats of lacquer with white diamond or even carnauba wax. I would recommend more coats as they aren't that thick. A better option is to wet sand and use auto body compounds for hand or pad buffing.

Most of the lacquers for wood require quite a bit of open (drying) time before buffing as they aren't that hard.
 
I buff lightly after a couple days. Never had a problem, but am using some unknown white compound that came with my first grinder about 35 years ago. Agree with what Steve said. If you are buffing that hard, maybe trying to level the surface, better to wet sand.
 
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