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Finishing Mallee Burl

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I am about to turn my first mallee burl bowl. What types of finish are best and how applied?

Thanks

Dave
 
I don't know if I would say "best" finish since that type of opinion would really depend on the intended use.

I have turned quite a few mallee burls. The finish I like best for almost everything not just mallee is tung oil. Sand to at least 600. wipe on with a paper towel, tung oil that has been thinned with turpentine.

I keep (or make up) different consistencies of tung oil. One is super thin for penetrating on first coat and leaving a nice finish for the last. Second is a little thicker so as to leave a thicker coat of finish.

I always buff out each coat with 0000 steel wool. For most applications 3-5 coats seem to do well. 1-2 thin, 1-2 thick, with a 1 final thin coat that I do not steel wool. Once it is dry buff it.
 
Any particular brand(s) of antique oil and tung oil you like to use? How long between thin coats and between thick coats?

Thanks
 
Tung Oil

Any particular brand(s) of antique oil and tung oil you like to use? How long between thin coats and between thick coats?

Thanks

Have used Gillispies and also Hopes Tung oil finish. Both products work great. I generally apply a good coat, let sit for 5 minutes, wipe off the extra. 0000 steel wool after 24hrs, then start with thinner coats rubbed in well with a cloth, let dry, repeat about 10 times.
Ed Reiss
 
Originally Posted by justaccord View Post
Any particular brand(s) of antique oil and tung oil you like to use? How long between thin coats and between thick coats?

Thanks

I like to order the pure tung oil from woodcraft, or the Jasco Tung oil finish (I can get it at orchard only). I think the stuff I mix my self from the woodcraft tung oil is better but that may be in my head.
 
Rustin's Danish Oil works well. Easy to apply, controllable level of gloss. Just be sparing if working around voids.

And btw, be prepared for darkening of the timber after UV exposure.

What was it? Red or Brown mallee burl?
 
It's Red Mallee. I'm looking forward to the challenge of turning it. Been playing with some designs in my head. Any suggestions on design?

I want to bring out the beauty of the "eyes" but I also like the look of the unfinished burl for the bowl bottom -- they seem to be mutually inconsistent.
 
Once the bark was off the bits I've turned (and IIRC it came off fairly readily) the timber didn't impress me much.

As for design, yes, tricky. Depends on how regular the burl is and of course your tastes.

Some pics below. The plain bowl was turned green but remained stable; the winged bowl was turned dry. This was a collaborative effort with my turning teacher and the design is his. (And both have darkened considerably since the pics were taken).

Just for interest, the third is Jarrah burl; the piece was oval and I turned it leaving two faces rough.
 

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Thanks for the feedback Dave.

Here's a top view of the Jarrah burl piece.

The 'bowl' is much thicker than I prefer, but as you can see there are several cracks and though they had the epoxy treatment I didn't trust them.

Added: with hindsight, the inner 'bead' would have looked better level with or higher than the broad rim.
 

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Added: with hindsight, the inner 'bead' would have looked better level with or higher than the broad rim.

Agreed, although it's nothing to scoff at in its current form. Beautiful piece.


Mike,

That is a very pretty piece. Is the bottom, flatter portion concave or convex?
 
Here's a design for you in mallee. Three coats of Watco and Beall buffed.

Good idea Mike.

I have a piece of Mallee that could use just that kind of turning design.
 
Dredging up this old thread

because I finally did turn a mallee burl. This one is brown not red. Gorgeous piece of wood. I'm having a little trouble with the finish though. It is dull and streaky in spots.

I have applied 3 coats of Deft Danish Oil plus one coat of wax.

Lacquer spray (Deft clear finish) has been suggested to me as an alternative.

Any suggestions (including source of problem, and removing and refinishing)?

Thanks

Dave

ps.
I'll post pics when I get the finish looking better
 
Is it clear timber Dave, without pits and voids?

I ask because you can get wax deposits in those but I guess you'd have noticed this.

Have you tried buffing the dull bits?

Did the DO dry thoroughly before recoats?

Was the timber perfectly dry?

If it's clear timber, at least where the streaks are, you could try cutting back the finish with 0000 steel wool and then waxing carefully and buffing.

Good luck.
 
I personally would use an oil finish. I recommend using a negative rake scraper on the inside.
 
Thanks Ern. The timber was about as dry as it gets.

The first coat of oil went on immediately after finish turning and sand up to 600 grit. No voids that I am aware of.

I may not have waited long enough between coats -- about 2 hrs between first and second, 18 hours between 2nd and final. It was dull before I waxed it, so I don't think wax is the problem.

I tried buffing, including light buffing with white diamond. It produced ridges. The whole piece has somewhat more gloss, but still dull spots.

I'm thinking about taking the whole finish down with 400, then sanding back up to finer than 600 (maybe 2000 or 12000 mm.

Steel wool didn't cut it back far enough.

Any suggestions for next time?
 
I agree with the darkening over time. The pic was taken just after it was finished.
Inertia sanded with 320 and alight rub with 400 and polished with EEE then Shellawax finish. Three years later its still got a good luster but has taken on a dark colour close to Jarrah.
 

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