Finishing in Wipe-on poly

[LANKFORD]

Based on the groups recommendations I tried Minwax Wipe-On Poly and really love the stuff. I first applied a couple of coats of oil then the poly, followed by wax. I was doing spalted Maple and used the oil to get into the wood. Just curious how many coats of oil do I really need under the poly?

 

[Mark Mandell]

1

But the poly is an oil finish as well so the new answer is actually

none.

BTW,

Wax if you must, but don't expect to add more poly after you wax; it will flake off as the finish contracts.

m

 

[LANKFORD]

One other thing about the under oil. I think it gives you the opportunity to correct small scratches before applying the poly.

 

[Mark Mandell]

One other thing about the under oil. I think it gives you the opportunity to correct small scratches before applying the poly.

I know several who use mineral oil to wet-sand their pieces before applying an oil finish; usually with the higher grits (320 and above). Just make sure that you have removed as much of the non-drying oil as possible before applying your poly finish because while the poly will still polymerize, the excess oil will tend to weep out of the pores and prevent any sealing effect. One remedy for this is a light barrier/sealer coat of dewaxed shellac after sanding and before the poly application. Others have used drying oil finishes such as Danish Oil, Watco, or home-made Witch's Brew as a sanding lubricant. Since these contain evaporative solvents, they must be "recharged" more often during the sanding process to prevent their "gumming up."

Good Luck

 

[rbabbittjr]

I have a tough time keeping track of what kind of finishes are compatible. I don't know if there is a simple rule or not. I was recently told you don't put oil finishes on top of each other. Likewise you don't use wate-base finishes together. ??????

I can say I tried the Wipe-On Poly for the first time also. Took 7 coats to get the finish I wanted. Steel wool in between each coat.

 

[MichaelMouse]

Wipe-on is good, in that you can get a range from natural-looking smooth, no surface layer, through full build. To get full build, of course, you have to tread a fine line between a generous coat which self-levels, and a gooey button of stuff in the bottom of a bowl which will leave a ring.

Lots written about proper application. I've found the paper towel route to be the most convenient for me. Keeping rags around in a house with two dogs tends to pick up hair.

 

[dkulze]

I use friction polish, wipe on poly, waterlox, and wax, depending on what I'm looking for. For bottle stoppers and very small pieces, friction polish is nice. For quick finish, I soak heavilly with wipe on then burnish it on the lathe with a rag at a relatively high speed till it heats up (hold the heat for 30 sec or so). This gives an "instacure" effect that can have a piece dry enough to handle in under 30 minutes (there's a little lag time between heating it up and fully dry). For deeper, more lustrous finishes, I do several coats of Waterlox with plenty of drying time and a light sand between coats. Wax is a quicky "make it shine" finish and is used more for helping sanding than for final finish.

I haven't used straight oil in several years since it does not leave a nice, deep, clear finish. I'll use mineral oil on salad bowls, etc. but use the Waterlox for sanding and showing scratches.

Dietrich