My wife wants to start using plates I make for actual dining, rather than plates just to be seen. She likes shiny plates, but poly won't hold up to a hot meal. So, I'm looking for something that will work, and I understand it will probably be less shiny than a poly finish. What finish is durable, and has a bit of sheen? Thanks
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Finishes for Plates
- Thread starter Jeff Scott
- Start date
I suspect that any ‘sheen’ is caused by build and will wear off (poly component of Watco, WOP, etc). Walnut oil is probably the recommended but will have to be reapplied and won’t provide any sheen. Buff and waxing will provide some luster, but again will need to be redone.
I gave a poly’d bowl to someone years ago and saw it after they had used it with forks and knives to cut up salads in, the finish was horrible. I wouldn’t recommend a build finish for anything forks and knives are used on.
I gave a poly’d bowl to someone years ago and saw it after they had used it with forks and knives to cut up salads in, the finish was horrible. I wouldn’t recommend a build finish for anything forks and knives are used on.
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Only thing I can think of that would give you nice shiny finish and still stand up to regular at-the-table use would be some sort of ceramic glaze - Poly and other built-up finishes will chip and scratch (anything a knife can cut into will obviously get damage over time, hence ceramic glaze, which then is subject to cracking and splitting as the wood moves) .. I'd suggest explain to the wife that it can be nice shiny finish, or it can be usable, but not both , and for the usable, go for a oil based food safe finish (or just plain beeswax,, etc... or Tried & True Original)
Thank you. Your replies don't surprise me, but I was hoping to find out about a new miracle finish!
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i Use walnut oil on all kitchen stuff. Not shiny
can be re oiled whenever.
waterlox gives some shine with 4-5 coats it is floor finish so should holdup and you can reapply it if It needs it.
can be re oiled whenever.
waterlox gives some shine with 4-5 coats it is floor finish so should holdup and you can reapply it if It needs it.
Definitely don't want a film finish for that use, I use walnut oil and/or salad bowl finish which is essentially beeswax and mineral oil. Either can be easily recoated. Film finishes look terrible when the film is penetrated, and is much more difficult to correct - sand to bare wood and re-do. No thanks.
Roger Wiegand
Beta Tester
Just wondering, would using a vacuum infused plastic resin (eg cactus juice) make for a durable daily use plate?
As stated a film build finish is required to have gloss, and I done know of any that will stand up to knife cutting, and hi heat will do a number on most if not all.
Duty as a serving platter for items that are not hi heat can work, but best to use wooden utensils to serve.
Otherwise, use walnut oil and accept lower sheen. Walnut oil can produce some sheen, but as soon as metal utensils strat cutting and scraping it looks like hell.
Duty as a serving platter for items that are not hi heat can work, but best to use wooden utensils to serve.
Otherwise, use walnut oil and accept lower sheen. Walnut oil can produce some sheen, but as soon as metal utensils strat cutting and scraping it looks like hell.
We use a lot of wooden plates that I make. I have finished most of them with walnut oil or an oil beeswax blend. All of it seems to wash off quickly. I did just do a walnut plate and finished it with Rubio monocrat, which is food safe apparently, and that's held up fairly well through a few meals so far. The Rubio is the sheeniest finish so far.
Walnut oil only for me. Any film finish will fail eventually, if for no other reason, the wood moves and the finish doesn't, so it will scratch, chip, and peel off. Soft oils work better for daily use pieces.
robo hippy
robo hippy
Thanks for the help. I see you are from Lebanon, Missouri, with Pistol Pete on your reply. Good for you - Go Pokes!!! OSU '1972.
Thanks. I have some Waterlox, but have never used it on anything I've turned. I'll give it a try.
Thanks. Do you use grocery store walnut oil, or something specifically made for wood workers? I think Mike Mahoney sells a walnut oil product, but I've never used it.
Thanks. I have some Rubio monocrat, but I've never used it. I'll give it a try.
Thanks. I've never even heard of Cactus Juice, but I just looked at it online, and it might be worth a try. Have you ever used it?
Thanks. Is the walnut oil you use from the grocery store, or something prepared specifically for woodworkers? I think Mike Mahoney has a walnut oil for sale, but I have never used it.
I use Mahoneys walnut oil.
Thanks. I have Mahoney’s utility oil, but not his walnut oil. I’ll buy some.
Some of the grocery store walnut oil will work, some won't. I use the Doctor's Woodshop walnut oils, in part because he is local. I do like his carnuba wax mix also because it spreads without needing heat. No clue about the rubio monocote, but I have seen some finish things on You Tube, and it seems to work well. Odie's oil also gets good reviews, as does Osmo. I just think the walnut oils work better, and easier.
robo hippy
robo hippy
Thanks. I've seen you on Youtube, and I appreciate you taking the time to help me.
Roger Wiegand
Beta Tester
I have to say that I refinished our curly maple island top with Rubio over a year ago and it is holding up remarkably well compared to previous attempts with pure tung oil and Mahoney's walnut oil. We do all our food prep on that surface, so it is wet, abused, and has potentially staining materials slopped onto it every day. At this point the Rubio still looks pretty much like new, where the others would have been due for a re-do by now. I was skeptical of the hype (and cost), but I'm coming around.
Thanks. Your opinion on Rubio is interesting. Is the Rubio on your island exposed to heat? Our plates with poly on them does fine, except when hot food is served on them. Then, the poly flakes off. I have an unopened quart of Rubio just waiting to be used, but if it won't hold up to hot food, I guess I'll have to go with one of the penetrating oils. (By the way, a curly maple island must be beautiful!)
Roger Wiegand
Beta Tester
No, it is not intentionally exposed to heat. Certainly not extreme heat. I have no idea how it might react. The rice cooker boiled over onto it a couple of times without harm, but that's a pretty transient exposure to something warmer.
There are advantages to making your own butcher block, though it's big and heavy enough to have been a pain to glue up. Since I don't have a wide belt sander of that size it gave me a chance to give my #8 plane (and me) a workout!
There are advantages to making your own butcher block, though it's big and heavy enough to have been a pain to glue up. Since I don't have a wide belt sander of that size it gave me a chance to give my #8 plane (and me) a workout!
Chatting with Mike Meridith, the Doctor (PHD) behind the Doctor's Woodshop, for a butcher block or cutting board, use a heat gun on the last coat of finish. It gets the finish in deeper. I would expect it helps it cure a bit faster. No wood surface is immune to heat, so hot pans and skillets are a big no no. That is what a trivet or cork pad are for.
robo hippy
robo hippy