finish for functional goblet

[Alan Carter]

I'm going to make a goblet out of cherry for someone who wants to actually drink from it. He does know not to put in the dishwasher but he wants to use it like a glass goblet. He may drink wine from it (Sacre bleu!) so liquid staining is an issue. What kind of finish can I use that will essentially waterproof the interior, especially since end grain will be at the bottom of the bowl? I usually use spray lacquer. Will that work or do I need to use some kind of polyurethane type product?

Thanks.

 

[Bernie Hrytzak]

washable coating

Alan,
I turned a small dish for my new grandaughter recently out of maple, marbleized it using acrylic colors and then applied several coats of fibreglass resin (without the fibreglass) over top. The resin was mixed using more catalyst than normally used in bodywork and since brushing on leaves uneven surface, was sanded between coats to get it reasonably smooth (and rough for adhesion). Once you have 3-4 coats you can wet sand with water (or varasol) to get it smooth, and it can be buffed with brown and white tripoli.
This surface is good for hand washing but not dishwasher because of temp.

Bernie

 

[n7bsn]

Alan
For such applications I use EnviroTex Lite

TTFN
Ralph

 

[Bill Weaver]

Allen
I used System Three Structural epoxy adhesive T-88 bought at Woodcraft. I used it on wedding goblet that had champaign drank from it. Worked rather well and is still holding up. Stored on shelf for 2 years.

 

[James E Gaydos]

Alan, I have a Mahogany salad bowl that was made 3 years ago, I use it very often. It is finished with General Salad Bowl Finish. Water still beads up on the bowl and the finish looks like new. I don't think alcohol will affect this finish.
Jim

 

[Odie]

Alan, I have a Mahogany salad bowl that was made 3 years ago, I use it very often. It is finished with General Salad Bowl Finish. Water still beads up on the bowl and the finish looks like new. I don't think alcohol will affect this finish.
Jim

I am using the General Salad Bowl Finish as well. It's made specifically for food use, seals the wood, and is non-toxic.

Would imagine this GSBF would be satisfactory for a wine goblet, but have no practical experience using it for that purpose.

There is one thing about the GSBF that I'm not completely satisfied with, though. This finish seems kind of dull looking and really doesn't bring out the beauty of the grain like my Danish Oil finish does.

Haven't done it yet, but am toying with the idea of applying the Danish Oil finish to a food bowl, and allow it to fully cure prior to using the GSBF over the top of the Danish Oil. I understand that the Danish Oil is toxic when wet, but becomes non-toxic when fully dry, or cured........

Any thoughts on this?

thanks

ooc

 

[Brian Libby]

any finish that is fully cured should be food safe.

 

[Alan Carter]

Thanks. I'll check out the General Finishes.

 

[James E Gaydos]

General SBF

Hi all,
I forgot to mention in my post that I used Minn Wax Antique Oil before I used the General. I had also sanded to 600 gt and used EEE-Shine.
Jim

 

[barbara dill]

finish for goblets and cups

I have made functional bowls, cups and goblets for years. I tried many things but whatever I used seemed to flavor whatever was in the cup. I then did some research and found that CA glue becomes an inert plastic when dried. I've used it for goblets, coffee cups and cereal and soup bowls and have been very happy with the results. I still use goblets that were made 10 years ago. I use the thin CA glue and swirl it around in the cup with a hemostat that has a ball of wax paper on it. I then quickly usea hemostat with a ball of a paper towel on it to wipe out the plled glue at the bottom of the cup. I use a few coats, depending on the wood.