• January Turning Challenge: Thin-Stemmed Something! (click here for details)
  • Conversations are now Direct Messages (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Gabriel Hoff for "Spalted Beech Round Bottom Box" being selected as Turning of the Week for January 6, 2024 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Finish for Black Walnut Table Top

B

bfwhitma

Joined
Oct 31, 2006
Messages
32
Likes
0
I am finally ready to apply a finish to a black walnut table that I made from wood I gathered here, milled and dried etc. (I turned the legs and stretchers to reflect the style of an early antique Lowboy nearby and also make this piece feel at home with all of my other turnings.) Normally, I would apply a light shellac-based sanding sealer to prevent excessive darkening of this relatively porous wood and obscuring of the fine figure and then follow with the lightest tung oil formulation I've found (Minwax). In this case I have a table top that will probably suffer an occasional wet glass bottom or bowl.

Does anyone recommend any other finish (a poly base?) that would protect the table better but still show the figure and not give it the shiny plastic look of a taproom bar?

Thanks,

Brad
 
I did a end table for my sister a few years back and was real pleased with Waterlox Satin. I tried the gloss but way to shiney for her so we went with satin. If you sit a glass of cold water on it and it sweats just wipe it up. I was pleased and she was happy with it. Oh and it was a lighter walnut but did darken it slightly.
 
Table top finish

Here's one finish that I've had a lot of success with:
General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Urethane Topcoat
This can be found at Rockler.

Eight years ago, I made a 5' x 12' Zebrawood conference table.
I used a clear automotive urethane, this finish requires many steps
to get it right, but the final product will last a lifetime.

There are many finishes that will give your table a very durable and good looking finish.
The type of wood (oily vs. open grain) you use will have a direct impact on what finish is required.
Superior sanding and sealing of the wood will also help you achieve the finish you want.
 
I guess I'd go wiping varnish (poly is fine) for all but the top surface, where I'd go high-test to limit the number of coats and possibilities of debonding.

If I could spray lacquer, it would be a wonderful choice, but I can't.
 
wiping varnish

Its simple, looks great, and it leaves a feeling of real wood.

A common recipe (with my preferences)

1/3 boiled linseed oil (i prefer it over tongue oil- dries quicker)
1/3 varnish (i prefer alkyd or boat types)
1/3 thinner (turpentine/mineral spirits/naptha, etc)

mix it all up, wipe it on with a clean rag, get the piece nice and wet for about 15-30 minutes. Make sure you rub the first coat in well & soak the wood. This coat will pop the grain on your piece. Then wipe it all off with another clean rag. Wait a day or two, sand w/400 grit (cuts all the raised grain) wipe it down well & do another coat. Lather, rinse ,& repeat till you are happy. Sand (320 or 400 grit) between coats if you wait more than a day for the next coat.

Some folks throw in a little japan drier to make it dry quicker. I just wait.

If you're trying to build a finish add more varnish. I'd say less than 50% max or you'll really need to brush it.

Dispose of your rags properly. They can catch fire. I just unfold mine outside on the porch & leave them till they harden up. Then I toss them.
 
bf, perhaps you should purchase some 100% tung oil and dilute it at least 50/50 with mineral spirits to lessen the darkening of the wood. The reason: both Minwax and Formby's are owned by Sherwin Williams and neither contain more than a smidgeon, if any at all, of tung oil. Try your regular procedure on a piece and use diluted pure Tung oil on a like piece and see if you like the difference.😀

Keep turnin' and learnin'!😉
 
Brad,
If it is an important table I would do a full-on deep lacquer finish and then cut the "plastic gloss" with wet 1200 or even 800 paper. Coats of lacquer based sealer, brushing lacquer, and spray lacquer, with appropriate sanding between coats to level the surface. Lots of work and time.
 
Thanks.The best use of a Forum...

Many Thanks as always to you and the AAW.
To be able to see quickly a range of styles, products, and experiences applied to a specific woodworking question is really invaluable.
Brad
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top