I've a set of homemade Mcnaughton knives, and have never used a handle with them, except for the straight knife used without the gate.
I use wax on the bottom and sides of the knives.
Keep the banjo angled towards the headstock as much as possible, as it is more rigid regarding twisting in this orientation. When the banjo twists, the tip of the knife droops.
The knife cutting edge must be on center when cutting. As the knife extends farther during the cutting, if the tip droops a bit, it will pull the knife under and into the cut and catch or hog. I usually line the end of the knife up with the point on the tailstock with the knife fully extended from the gate.
If the handle end of the knife is allowed to drop, the tip will be above center, and at some point the cutting force will drive it down. As it is driven down, it will be forced into the wood deeper as a result of the curvature of the stock, and will hog.
A remote off switch is a nice thing to have.
I use a small scrap of wood similar to a popsickle stick to help clear shavings with.
Withdraw the knife and clear shavings often.
When entering a cut after clearing shavings, if the knife does not cut with a slight pressure, it likely has a shaving over the cutting edge, and is rubbing the shaving on the blank instead of presenting the edge. Withdraw the knife and reinsert in this situation.
Fuzzy wood is a bear to core as the shavings do not clear well.
Later,
Dale M