Finalizing choice on 18" Lathe

[Yuri Grapov]

Hi all!
My name is Yuri. I am getting ready to retire and am planning to do more woodturning and would appreciate advice from owners of Rikon 1824 and Record Power Regent on the following lathe features:

- 50 low speed vs. 250 low speed
- bed extension vs. outrigger
-pivoting headstock vs. pivoting and sliding headstock

Thank you for your help!

 

[William Rogers]

Well I’m surprised there are no recommendations. I do not have either of those lathes. However I find having the 50 rpm low speed would be what I would want. I had a PM 90 and the lowest speed I could get with that lathe was around 280. I got by with it, but not near as ideal as having a low speed of 50.

The pivoting headstock is geared toward bowl turners. If that is all you will be turning then a sliding headstock doesn’t add any additional capability. I have a sliding headstock. I do more than just bowls. With a sliding headstock, the pivoting headstock doesn’t offer any advantage for me.

The distance between centers is 24” on those lathes and a bit short for me. I would look at extensions.

These are just my thoughts not specific to either brand. Hopefully those that own the brand can comment more about it.

 

[Brian Gustin]

Hi all!
My name is Yuri. I am getting ready to retire and am planning to do more woodturning and would appreciate advice from owners of Rikon 1824 and Record Power Regent on the following lathe features:

I have neither, but I recently got a new Jet 1640 and had pretty much the same thoughts as you are asking about... so I can tell you my general considerations.

- 50 low speed vs. 250 low speed

Rather depends on the type of turning you do - most spindle turners rarely if ever drop below several hundred RPM's I don't think. However, for bowl turning, and off center turning, etc you may want the lowest possible speed - not so much for making the cuts themselves, but more for the on-lathe sanding RPM's (and possibly finishing) - for example, you could not possibly fully sand a natural edge bowl at 250 RPM's, but with some care it may be do-able at 50... among other considerations

- bed extension vs. outrigger

again it has to do with the types of turnings you may want to do. For spindle turners the bed extension would allow longer spindles to work with, outrigger would not do much. OTOH if you do bowl turning with headstock slid to end or swiveled out, you may rather need the outrigger.

-pivoting headstock vs. pivoting and sliding headstock

It's an endless debate in many, many threads on these forums - Some will swear by sliding headstock and point out flaws in pivoting. and others will be the exact opposite - Both have their pros and cons and again it would depend on your personal turning style and what it is you want to be turning. Then again you could look into Gap Bed lathes (ways have a section that can be dropped down or swung away just after headstock to create a larger swing for bigger bowls, then swung back for smaller turnings when you need banjo slid closer to headstock, etc. )

Thank you for your help!

Sorry I couldn't be more help , but then again, it really probably depends on what you want to turn and your own turning style.

 

[Dave Landers]

I also have neither of these lathes. But...

A low speed of 50 is better than 250 if you are needing to rough out bowls or similar - starting a big unbalanced blank at 250 can be exciting.

There are lots of strong "my way is the best" opinions on this forum about rotating/sliding headstocks. I've never used pivoting headstock, so I should be telling you that sliding headstocks are the only way to go. But I won't. Either sliding or pivoting will allow you to position the work so you can stand comfortably and turn without reaching/leaning over the lathe. The differences mainly are in floor space (can you stand at the end or not) and in what sort of turning you do and what tools you have (i.e. some hollowing systems attach to the tailstock, etc). So think about those things and decide what fits you the best.

 

[John Snow]

I was very interested in the Record Power Regent, but the 250 rpm minimum speed is a specification that eliminated that lathe. I like to turn bowls, and more than once I've been very surprised at the hidden imbalance in some blanks, even at 100 rpm or so. 250 rpm would have been a danger in one or two cases.

I'm looking now at the Nova Nebula.

 

[hockenbery]

would appreciate advice from owners of Rikon 1824 and Record Power Regent on the following lathe features:

see if you can visit with a local owner. Maybe use the lathe or at least watch the owner show it off.
Contact local clubs ask if they know of owners. distributors may have people or stores where you can try the lathe or operate it without actually turning.

Posture is important. You don’t want to bend over when turning.
Lathe center height is the most important for not bending over for too low and not being able to get good tool control on lathes too high.

You can learn to hollow bowls with erect posture on fixed, pivoting, and sliding headstocks.

I like to sand around 30-50 rpm. But what’s important is the speed you like to sand at.

 

[Yuri Grapov]

William,
Thank you for your helpful input.
Can you comment on the lathe you are currently using?

 

[Yuri Grapov]

I was very interested in the Record Power Regent, but the 250 rpm minimum speed is a specification that eliminated that lathe. I like to turn bowls, and more than once I've been very surprised at the hidden imbalance in some blanks, even at 100 rpm or so. 250 rpm would have been a danger in one or two cases.

I'm looking now at the Nova Nebula.

Thank you. That is the same conclusion I came to without experience.
Coincidentally, I have been considering the Nova. My only concern I have is the 2 year warranty on electronics.
Did you consider the Stubby S750 when you made your purchase?

 

[Yuri Grapov]

see if you can visit with a local owner. Maybe use the lathe or at least watch the owner show it off.
Contact local clubs ask if they know of owners. distributors may have people or stores where you can try the lathe or operate it without actually turning.

Posture is important. You don’t want to bend over when turning.
Lathe center height is the most important for not bending over for too low and not being able to get good tool control on lathes too high.

You can learn to hollow bowls with erect posture on fixed, pivoting, and sliding headstocks.

I like to sand around 30-50 rpm. But what’s important is the speed you like to sand at.

That is very helpful, as I already have some back problems. I believe the tilting stock will be advantageous.

 

[William Rogers]

William,
Thank you for your helpful input.
Can you comment on the lathe you are currently using?

Well I have the Robust AB. A bit more costly than the lathes you are looking at. Before that I had the Laguna 18-36. Hockenbery’s comments about the height are right on. The Laguna was only about 41 1/2 floor to spindle. Way too low for me. I also had little problems such as switches, relays, etc. with the Laguna. I have had my Robust for 5 years now and totally trouble free as it should be for the $$. If were looking today and the Robust was out of reach I think I would be looking at the Jet 1840 since it has a 5 year warranty. I have never turned on one so no experience. You can’t go wrong with the Robust if you have the money.

 

[Richard Coers]

50rpm, bed extension, and neither of those head stock options would be my preference. I hate pivoting heads.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

Not to defend comparatively high lowest rpm on any brand/model lathe (and in today's tech age, there really is no excuse for the higher lowest rpm, either electronically or pulley size/ratio, or both), but the issue of out of balance rough blanks in general can partly be compensated for with more careful prep work at the chainsaw and bandsaw (or by using a carving axe on a chopping block) before bringing the wood to the lathe. More thoughtful prep work before mounting any piece of wood to any lathe is not only far safer for the humans in the shop, it also leads to less wear and tear on machines and tools, greater success rates for the wood chunks, fewer broken light fixtures and holes through walls... well, you get the idea.

Going off topic...
A carving axe, you say? Yes. And not your garden variety hardware store hatchets, either. For example, Scandinavian cultures have used small axes (aka hatchet), adz and knife for a thousand years to make daily use items for the kitchen and every other aspect of life. Here's a short video on safe practices at the chopping block. The piece of wood will be for a cooking utinsel. The same processes are used for bowl carving and other. Lots of videos and websites out there.

View: https://youtu.be/izS9gNc2ECg?si=1uD_WSyzv3WHZvaY


One of the best axe/adz bowl carvers out there today is a fella named Dave Fisher. Incredible work, all by hand tool. Take a look at this entry video of his, other available at Youtube and his website.

View: https://youtu.be/a5MM__p85EM?si=4vEnIl5RYX6kq--q


Well regarded carving axes in the 1 to 2 pound category are from makes such as Granfurs Bruk, Julia Kalthoff, Hans Karlsson (all Scandinavian) and Jason Lonon (USA). I own 2 sizes of Gransfurs axe, and a Julia Kalthoff axe, and a Lonon adz, all wonderful tools! These are tools that will last decades and generations. A $30 hardware store axe/hatchet is, frankly, crap. Soft steel and ill-fitted and shaped handles. If a carving axe and chopping block look intriguing and useful to you as part of your turning shop (they are!), you'll find lots of sites out there. "Sloyd" is another word to add to the search, referring to Scandinavian hand/craft work such as this.

My 12" diameter, 32" tall ash chopping block on legs, and Grandfurs Bruk "large carving axe". About 2lb. Makes very fast work of wood removal. I have 2 others in the 1 to 1.5lb range as well. Any lump of log, wet or dry, will work fine. Those legs are notched landscape timber and 1/2" x 4" lag screws

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

I have the Record Power Envoy. It is the 16” version. I have put on some big unbalanced pieces and never needed to go below 250. It has been a great lathe and I would recommend it to anybody.

 

[Dean Center]

I agree with many of the comments above. 250 is not slow enough for sanding bowls or heavy off balance blanks, but that only matters if you're going to be doing that. Since you're 'just starting' and don't know what you're going to be doing, I'd suggest this is an important issue.

Trying out a lathe before buying is critical, in my opinion. There are all kinds of little fussy aspects to lathes and you won't know about them unless you try it out. Like the height, like the way the tool rest is held in the banjo, like the direction the lock on the banjo goes, like the way you activate the spindle lock, like the way you lock the quill/ram......

I recommend you get in touch with the nearby turning clubs, meet some nice people, and cajole them into letting you try out their lathes. One of them may be selling a good condition, used lathe that will allow you to discover at a modest cost exactly which of the fussy issues is important to you and what type of turning you're going to want to do. If it turns out it's not the lathe of your dreams, you can sell it for just about what you paid for it and then you'll know exactly what you're looking for in your second lathe.

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

50rpm, bed extension, and neither of those head stock options would be my preference. I hate pivoting heads.

When did you last use one?

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

Hi all!
My name is Yuri. I am getting ready to retire and am planning to do more woodturning and would appreciate advice from owners of Rikon 1824 and Record Power Regent on the following lathe features:

- 50 low speed vs. 250 low speed
- bed extension vs. outrigger
-pivoting headstock vs. pivoting and sliding headstock

Thank you for your help!

I have had the Rikon 70-1824 for about 3 weeks. It's everything I had hoped for.

• On the middle belt, the Rikon goes from 80 RPM (100 is advertised) to 1900 RPM. That does everything I need. On a natural edge, once-turned bowl, 80 is needed. For smoother bowls, I might turn it up to 150 or 200.
• I bought the Rikon 16" bed extension and outboard turning combo (basically just a tool rest extension). It's only $250 which I thought reasonable compared to other manufacturers. I have no immediate plans to turn outboard, but someday I'll be glad I have it. The main reason I bought the extension is so I can slide the tailstock all the way out of the way.
• I didn't go looking for a rotating headstock, it's just that the lathe I liked best has that feature. I like it. I rotate it for sanding and for working on the interior on larger bowls. I don't have a dog in the rotating/sliding headstock fight, but I'm glad I have the rotating headstock.

Rikon customer service can't be beat.

 

[Yuri Grapov]

I have neither, but I recently got a new Jet 1640 and had pretty much the same thoughts as you are asking about... so I can tell you my general considerations.

Rather depends on the type of turning you do - most spindle turners rarely if ever drop below several hundred RPM's I don't think. However, for bowl turning, and off center turning, etc you may want the lowest possible speed - not so much for making the cuts themselves, but more for the on-lathe sanding RPM's (and possibly finishing) - for example, you could not possibly fully sand a natural edge bowl at 250 RPM's, but with some care it may be do-able at 50... among other considerations

again it has to do with the types of turnings you may want to do. For spindle turners the bed extension would allow longer spindles to work with, outrigger would not do much. OTOH if you do bowl turning with headstock slid to end or swiveled out, you may rather need the outrigger.

It's an endless debate in many, many threads on these forums - Some will swear by sliding headstock and point out flaws in pivoting. and others will be the exact opposite - Both have their pros and cons and again it would depend on your personal turning style and what it is you want to be turning. Then again you could look into Gap Bed lathes (ways have a section that can be dropped down or swung away just after headstock to create a larger swing for bigger bowls, then swung back for smaller turnings when you need banjo slid closer to headstock, etc. )

Sorry I couldn't be more help , but then again, it really probably depends on what you want to turn and your own turning style.

This is exactly information I was after. Thank you
I like woodturning for it almost endless creative possibilities.
Spindle ,bowl, off-axis , fun stuff like mushrooms .x-mas decoration ,eggs, etc.
I used to wood carve and want to use turned wood in my carving projects.
Based on forum feedback I am revising my lathe selection .
I am considering Nova Nebula. Would love to hear owners opinions especially about quirky things

 

[Yuri Grapov]

When did you last use one?

I actually have 2436 .Bought it used last year .I like it a lot- speed range ,speed control, rate of acceleration and breaking.
Understanding that purchasing of any lathe one would need to evaluate Cons and Pross he can live with. I definitely want full motor control, that is why Nova Lathes (Nebula in particular) check all boxes in that regard. I think tilting stock will help consider I develop back problem. I actually want smaller lathe because it will be easier for met to roll it outside garage for practice woodturning . I put industrial grade leveling casters and I am rolling my 2436 Onaway now, working OK .Eventually I will have proper shop and bolt lathes to the floor .






9nebula seems to check all boxes in that regard

 

[Mark Jundanian]

am considering Nova Nebula. Would love to hear owners opinions especially about quirky things

Glad to here it. It may not be what you ultimately choose, but I think the Nebula is well worth consideration.

You noted some concern earlier regarding the electronics. I have had a Nova DVR lathe (1624-II) since 2017 and a Nova Voyager drill press (also DVR). I've had no problems with the electronics.

 

[Bill Blasic]

I've had my DVR3000 for 22 or 23 years and still running flawlessly, I've had my Nova Viking for about 5 years (would never give this up) and my recent Neptune is another great lathe and I'm feeling that it will be like these other two Nova products. I have finished downsizing with 5 lathes gone and finally a fixed home for my Rose Engine and my CNC Router with my small CNC Router switched over to a laser it also occupies its own space (all 3 on wheels for mobility).

 

[Darryl Fective]

I'm a little confused. If you have a 2436, why are you shopping for a different lathe? I would think your current one could do most of what you hope to work on, and the models you're looking at would be a step down.

 

[Mike Drake]

I'm a little confused. If you have a 2436, why are you shopping for a different lathe? I would think your current one could do most of what you hope to work on, and the models you're looking at would be a step down.

…” I actually want smaller lathe because it will be easier for met to roll it outside garage for practice woodturning . I put industrial grade leveling casters and I am rolling my 2436 Onaway now, working OK…”

 

[Gabriel Hoff]

I'm a little confused. If you have a 2436, why are you shopping for a different lathe? I would think your current one could do most of what you hope to work on, and the models you're looking at would be a step down.

Agree, the Oneway quality is really good, our club has two and boy are they tanks! I understand you need a smaller one but keep the Oneway.

 

[hockenbery]

am rolling my 2436 Onaway now, working OK…

I got the wheel kit with my 2436 in 1997

I’ve moved lots of lathes since then. Many on trailers. Powermatics, robusts, novas, big jets, general, woodfast…..
The ONEWAY on the wheel kit is the easiest of all of them to move.
The handle on the rotating wheel makes it so easy to steer into a location or around any course.

The tires roll over grass easily and over rained on sand (not sugar sand) with a tiny bit of effort.
Up a trailer ramp more easily than any casters.

Also the wheel kit attaches with just the lever it comes with to raise the feet.
A 2 minute job on a bad dat day. 30 seconds if your on your game.


I don’t think you’ll find a lathe easier to move than the 2436 with the wheel kit.


Our club has a nova with a trailer jack bolted on the headstock side and 2 wheels on a hinge on the tailstock side.
It is pretty easy to move on concrete and up a trailer ramp. 4” wheels I think.

 

[Darryl Fective]

I have a set of hydraulic steerable machine mover dollies to put wheels on a lathe just temporarily. I rolled my Problematic 4224 with 880 pounds of sand out of my shop by myself pretty easily.

Another "hobby" of mine is antique safes, so it's nice to have a way to pick up and roll a ton of metal around easily.

 

[Yuri Grapov]

I have a set of hydraulic steerable machine mover dollies to put wheels on a lathe just temporarily. I rolled my Problematic 4224 with 880 pounds of sand out of my shop by myself pretty easily.

Another "hobby" of mine is antique safes, so it's nice to have a way to pick up and roll a ton of metal around easily.

That is a great idea. Moving outside lighter lathe is just a plus, key factor for me is tilting head stock and responsive speed control. After listening to forum advice and reviewing available videos I am thinking of buying Nova Nebula.
Expected delivery time- end of September .
Thank you Y'all very much

 

[Kevin Jenness]

It would be hard to find a more solid lathe than the Oneway you have, and it is sufficiently mobile. Why not add a 17" Oneway bed extension and banjo or an outboard tool rest setup like the Robust or Vicmarc? That will allow for ergonomic hollowing at the outboard end without downsizing to a lathe that is about half the weight of the Oneway. In addition, the integrated motor and headstock on the Nova may pose issues if the motor or circuit board fails in future, as opposed to a lathe with a separate motor and electronic drive. I'm sure they are good machines, but I have seen at least one story of a Nova user who could not source a replacement for his obsolescent headstock.

 

[Bryan Field]

I absolutely love my Nebula!

 

[Max Roberts]

Ditto Kent, I love my Rikon 70-1824. Just got it no regrets ... got two extra extensions front and back they also add extra weight.
My best,
Max

 

[Kent Reisdorph]

Ditto Kent, I love my Rikon 70-1824. Just got it no regrets ... got two extra extensions front and back they also add extra weight.
My best,
Max

Awesome. I bought the bed extension/outboard turning kit combo. I like that the accessories don't cost you an arm and a leg. $250 for the combo. Other manufacturers charge $350-550 for just the bed extension.

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

Awesome. I bought the bed extension/outboard turning kit combo. I like that the accessories don't cost you an arm and a leg. $250 for the combo. Other manufacturers charge $350-550 for just the bed extension.

It looks like a very nice lathe. I have a Rikon 70-220, 12” variable speed. I still use it for buffing and small things. It has been a good lathe.