filling holes

[Gary Chapman]

recently turned a large platter out of magahoney to find two holes the size of a nail just off center in the bowl. Gathered fine sawdust and filled it , dropped a few drops of ca glue on it and waited. Sanded it off to find the holes now are dark filled holes. I don't know which was worse, holes or filled dark holes.
Any suggestions?

 

[john lucas]

Worm holes are a pain. I clean them out and leave them if it doesn't hurt the bowl. Other than that I will fill the holes with either black epoxy or I'll cut a short piece of brass rod and drive it in the hole, then file it down flush.

 

[ihmserv]

similar to john's approach if you can't hide it, highlight it.

IAN

 

[Odie]

I recently filled a void around a knot with 5-minute clear epoxy. This was on a salad bowl......looked pretty good.

I applied the epoxy above the level of the wood. After the epoxy was thouroughly dry, I very carefully sanded with a course disc to the level of the wood, then sanded the entire surface as normal.

I find that many voids, worm holes, knots, etc., actually take on some character that is appreciated by some people. To fill, or not to fill may be a question that can be answered either way......Use best judgement.

Of course, something like a salad bowl will be better off with voids filled.

ooc

 

[craterdog]

I like to use malachite to fill holes in mahogany. It provides a very nice contrast in color, especially as the mahogany darkens with age and exposure to sunlight. I crush the stone and use the dust to fill the hole or crack, a few drops of thin CA to anchor it and you're ready to sand and finish.
Tim Carter

 

[GA Darling]

Ahhhh, nothing like some worm holes to ruin a perfect turning. 😉 I have taken sawdust from the wood i have turned and mixed it with a glue that dries clear like trim glue. Let it dry and sand off. It isn't always a perfect repair but much better than a dark hole.

 

[Paul Bennett]

I was always told the test of a true craftsman is how well he covers up his mistakes. For chips, holes and knots showing gaps I always used lacquer sticks (Burn in sticks). They come in just about any color you want so you have your choice to cover-up or highlight.

For those who haven't used lacquer sticks you melt them into hole, chip etc.. You can use any heat source I use a gas barbecue lighter It cools quickly and can be sanded to remove excess or I usually continue turning as if nothing had happened. If you are interested check out "www.mohawk-finishing.com" and look at their Blendit Sticksl

 

[Jerry Hall]

Sanka,

freeze dried is my go-to filler with thin CA dripped on and immediately wiped off. I always seal my pieces with thin lacquer sealer 40% or so gloss in lacquer thinner. Then the CA doesn't stain. The freeze dried Sanka crystals crunch in and hold without falling out, and don't float away like dust fillers do sometimes. I am able to go all the way around the bowl stuffing Sanka where needed and it stays until I go around with the thin CA and a paper towel right at hand to blot and wipe down. Worst case I will put a blue masking tape dam on the opposite side. Fast process, even works to repair cracked finished bowls with minimum rework and sanding. Also use it to fill carvings for embellishments, or coffee grounds if I want a textured/bark inclusion look. It looks good to me, but probably because I am used to it. Others perception no doubt will vary! I also have been known to enlarge my holes, out of round, with a Dremel, clean sharp edges. Make them look like knots or whatever. Fill them or not. It's all an experiment! Also key filings from the hardware store are fun and cheap.

 

[waltben]

I've found worm holes actually help sell a piece. I had just finished this one, took a couple of photos and it sold the next day at a show. I'd named it "There's worms in my salad!".

 

[Gary Chapman]

worm holes

The only problem is the platter has a beautiful grain patter and then there are the two holes right in the middle of the platter. I have filled them but they are darker than the real wood,(the ca glue darkened the dust) so I think I will draw a scene of trees or something with permanent markers to hide the holes. Someone will get a beautiful mahogany bowl with a woods scene in the middle. Thanks Gary

 

[Dan Mosley]

If you can enhance the crack or hole and then use filler (Coffee grounds, metal or stone shavings, saw dust etc) then it may look creative and nice.
On the other hand i have seen alot of work that the cracks and holes that were fillied look just that - filled cracks and holes.......

 

[john lucas]

Don't forget opaque paints. I have used paint after filling in a knot. I simply mixed colors until it matched different colors of the existing knot. Then do a little creative coloring. You can get it to the point that no one will know but you.
It would be harder to do on bug hole. Use the technique I use to spot photos. Don't try to fill the entire hole with one color. Use a very small brush and just put dots of the color you choose. You can keep adding dots until the area blends.
I started doing this back in College when we hung photos on the wall with nails, which we weren't supposed to do. When I left I filled the holes and then painted the wall to match, complete with adding fake defects in the concrete block. Step up 40 years later. I just had to remove our darkroom and pull out all the shelving. We had a ton of holes in the concrete block. I patched them all then went back with spackling on a stiff brush and splattered the areas with spacking dots. Even though they are raised areas instead of depression like the real blocks, they blend in wonderfully. The contractor who was doing the painting complimented me on the job because he saw it after I ripped out the cabinets and shelving.