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Facaplate question

A

Alex Ku

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Faceplate question

I am looking for a new 3" faceplate. There are faceplates on the market ranging from $11 to $50.

What is your experience with cheaper faceplate?
Should I go for more expensive brand name faceplate to avoid possible run out with cheap one?

Thanks,
Alex
 
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Since I look at faceplates as a lifetime investment, I've mostly always purchased faceplates that weren't the cheapest to be had. My thinking on this is I'll probably get what I pay for.....and I want precision.

This isn't to say the cheap faceplates can't be of high quality. I'm sure many of them are. I just don't want to deal with concentricity issues, and since this is not something that will be expected to be replaced....ever, I just don't want to deal with the cheap ones.

Who knows, maybe I'm just worried for naught! I fully expect to be overwhelmed by those who will post to this thread extolling the virtues of cheap faceplates......now that I've given my opinion! Ha!

I also prefer steel, to aluminum.

I have faceplates from CSUSA, Woodfast, Oneway, and Grizzly. All are ok, but the Grizzly seems to not be of equal quality to the others.

OOC
 
I agree with odie. I have had my share of problems with aluminum sometimes even getting them off the headstock spindle. I know that some use plastic washers but that is a pain. I bought Stainless faceplates and haven't had a problem with run out or anything.
 
I seem to collect faceplates like stamps or something. I have pieces in different states of completion attached to faceplates all around the shop.

For me it has to take the size screws I want to use, and no flex. Personally, a big fan of Best Wood tools aluminum faceplates.

There are those who don't like to use aluminum on steel, but it depends greatly on how the threads are cut.
 
Alex,

I believe you have a mini lathe. If this is the case, an aluminum faceplate should perform just fine for any normal mini projects. Just recognize if/when you upgrade your lathe and start putting heavier pieces, the aluminum can distort and you'll want to go with steel.

Don Pencil sells a good Al faceplate at a nice price.
 
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Steve Worcester said:
I seem to collect faceplates like stamps or something. I have pieces in different states of completion attached to faceplates all around the shop.
Click to expand...

This is an excellent point, Steve......and should be brought into the discussion.

Multiple faceplates are a great thing to have.....for the very reason Steve has pointed out! There probably isn't any of us that hasn't turned our attention from one project to another in mid stream.......and, it sure is convenient to have spare faceplates, so the ones in use can remain attached, and centered.

ooc
 
Mostly it's been stated but I'll add my view. Inexpensive face plates don't usually work very well. There is considerable strain on a faceplate and a very small amount of give can affect the quality of the cuts one is making. Not a good item to save money on.

Malcolm Smith.
 
When I sold woodturning tools, I talked a lot of people out of aluminum face plates.
Ironically (maybe) I can tell you that the beall lathe spindle taps are an excellent tool to create an accurate size range of face plates and other turning aides.
 
For small inexpensive faceplates, I buy lots of ten from Bill Noble (think I've got 30 or so scattered around). They're just large fender washers he welds to the appropriate sized nut, but they're perfect for smaller work and scrap wood jigs. I've used his plain ones on my two mini lathes and on my Stubby with no problems at all. Perfectionists have 'issues' about them not being completely true, but once you start turning a piece of wood, it doesn't matter. He'll drill them and face them flat for a little more, but they're still a deal. http://www.wbnoble.com/
 
many ways to the same end

For smaller work almost anything with a thread on it will work. However, I've found that for large work the Versa Mount system works well for me. Not having a lifting device, save for my own back, it makes fixing the piece to the lathe a lot easier.

Aaron
 
Although a faceplate is a very simple looking piece of equipment, there are several important factors that make the difference between a good faceplate and a not-so-good boat anchor.
  1. First of all, it is very important to have well fitting threads that are cut deeply and cleanly. Some cheap faceplate have threads that have chips, cracks, and galling -- along with being very loose fitting because the thread depth is very shallow.
  2. The faceplate should have an accurate register surface. For those who do not know, even the best threads are not sufficiently precise or close fitting enough to provide proper alignment on the spindle over the course of removing and reinstalling a faceplate. The register surface on the faceplate mates against the spindle register (some cheap lathes do not have a register on the spindle) in order to provide repeatable alignment accuracy. Some cheap faceplates bottom out on the nose of the spindle threads before contact is made with the register.
  3. The mounting surface of the faceplate should be parallel to the register surface. It helps with both dynamic balance and also makes alignment more convenient when something is first turned between centers and then mounted on a faceplate.
  4. The faceplate should be statically balanced. If it isn't, then there will be a small amount of vibration that you will have to live with which would be important on a small lathe.
I have aluminum, stainless steel, and cast iron faceplates. I like the aluminum and stainless steel ones. The cast iron faceplates are not quite heavy enough to be decent boat anchors.
 
make your own

I have a woodfast with 1 1/4 spindle with 8 threads per inch and is hard to find faceplates so I bought 1 1/4 nuts with that thread count and welded them to 3/8 steel and then had them trued on a metal lathe. it cost me $20 for three faceplates.
 
I have Supernova 2 chucks and I like the Nova steel faceplate rings that are dovetailed to fit my chuck jaws. Been meaning to order a couple more of them. I made an MDF insert with a hole in the middle that allows me to center the ring on the blank easily.
 

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