Exterior bowl shaping

[Mark Benjamin]

Hi all,

I’m somewhat of a novice turner (about a year and a half). I have started turning larger bowls (around 14”) and have had pretty good success. The issue that I am experiencing is that when roughing out the exterior I can’t seem to get a good cut moving from foot to rim. On the other hand, moving from rim to food works really well, but of course then I risk tear out. Once I make the tenon then flip the piece over, working from foot to rim works nicely. I’m guessing that this has to do with the direction of the turning. Since I have had success smoothing everything out once I flip it over, should I be concerned? Just wondering why I can’t seem to get a good cut initially. Thx!

 

[Darryl Fective]

Which direction is the grain? Parallel to the lathe axis, or perpendicular?

 

[Mark Benjamin]

Which direction is the grain? Parallel to the lathe axis, or perpendicular?

Side grain.

 

[hughie]

An image of whats most troubling about the current piece you're turning, will allow you to tap into the vast knowledge and experience base here . There are decades and decades if not 100's of years knowledge and hard won experience available to everyone. This is not a criticism, but rather encouragement to share the challenge you are having 🙂. One of the most amazing aspects of this woodies community is the free sharing of knowledge , encouragement, experience and its world wide. I know I wouldn't be here without it being had in not being freely available way back when I started.

 

[Dave Landers]

I do sometimes turn bowls initially from rim-to-foot. I do it because of the sight-line it gives me. Holding a bowl gouge and making a push cut from the foot, I'm looking somewhat perpendicular to the gouge. Mainly because I turn the outside of bowls between centers, so I can't stand far enough over to see the curve properly. I sometimes have a better time establishing the profile I want by starting at the rim.
I do watch the profile on the opposite side of the bowl (not staring at the tool) but somehow I have a better view going the "wrong way". I watch the tear out and don't let it get too deep (lighter cuts and sharper tool). Maybe it's just me, but I'm not going to over-analyze success. I do then finish the outside with shearing pull cuts and/or shear scraping going the "right way".

Your thing is probably different, but my point is not to worry too much about how you get there in the end.

 

[Dean Center]

There are many ways to do just about everything in woodturning and if that works for you, that's fine. However, I'm puzzled why you are better going from left to right with both mountings. I suggest you have a mentor take a look at you working the bowl for right to left, foot to rim--maybe they can see what the problem is and have a solution for you. The more versatile you are, the better.

 

[robo hippy]

Well, several possibilities. I have sliding or pivoting headstocks only in my shop. This allows me to stand at the end of the lathe with my arms in close to my body. Much easier to control the cuts for me that way. Never liked extending my arms out away from my body. Another issue is how much bevel rub are you using? One turner said, "the bevel should rub the wood, but the wood should not know it". This is difficult, but a one handed push cut, hand on handle only, makes a huge difference in the quality of the cut. The ONLY thing the other hand does is it rests on the tool, and rests, it does not push down! Beyond that it takes a lot of practice.

robo hippy