Experience with Oregon PowerSharp chainsaw sharpening device?

[Richard Preston]

Saw a demo of the Oregon PowerSharp sharpening system on TV. A sharpening stone, contained within a plastic housing, is closed over the end of the bar, the chainsaw is started and the housing is pressed against a tree, the stone lowers and sparks fly.
So many questions - anyone used one?
Extra wear on the chain?
Different teeth on this set than on my Stihl or Husqvarna and if so, is there any downside?

Bailey''s has a good video at http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=ORF+539456&catID=

I don't need another gimmick.
TYIA

 

[waltben]

Looks interesting, but you've also got to have their bar and special chain for it to work. I've three Stihl saws with four or five spare chains for each (you can get them cheap on eBay - used once by chain saw rental places) so I'd be replacing far too much. I use a 12v DC Oregon motorized grinder that is reasonably fast as well. Finally, I seriously like the Stihl 3/8" pitch chain, especially how well it cuts. I'd have to try this new Oregon one out first before I'd even consider it.

 

[Richard Coers]

Sears used to have a top sharpening rig on their saws. That didn't last long. The chain also has those huge safety rackers on it. I don't care for the current safety chains, so I'm skeptical about these. I wonder about getting all that grit in the end of the bar from sharpening and that diamond dressing link. These guys are in the business of selling bars and chains. One last thought, you will still have to hand dress the rackers. I'm not sold, but if I tried it and it worked, well then okay.

 

[MichaelMouse]

Ask This Old House watcher, eh? As I looked it up afterward, I wondered if it wouldn't be more vulnerable to hot chain (droop) syndrome than the average. Tension would play a pretty big factor because there's not a lot of stabilization from long teeth.

I'll see it at the logging congress this year if it lasts that long on the market. Until then, conventional chain and my File and Joint will have to serve.

 

[Chuck Jones]

Yet another gimmick?

Here is a plan that I think works better. Go to any store that carries chainsaws and/or chainsaw parts. Find this strange looking little round tool about 9-10" long with a diameter between 5/32"-7/32". It's called a file. Buy the diameter that fits your chain.

1. Hold it against the cutting part of the chain at an angle somewhere close to how the chain was originally filed.
2. Gently push it forward (repeat 3-4 times).
3. Move to next tooth.
4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 until done.



This is obviously an abbreviated description, but you are all craftsmen and you will figure out the rest of the details. The hardest part may be determining the diameter needed for your particular chain.


I'm as much a tool junkie as anyone, but I'm astounded at the useless gadgets that have been marketed to do something so simple as sharpening a chain. 🙂

 

[Gretch Flo]

sharpening chains

I use a dremel with a diamond " Barrel"-got at Harbor freight with 40 other burs-un labled diameters. They ealso have cordless thart you can take to the woods with you. Rob, I think , gave a link for Lee Valley burs that have a specific diameter. With the dremel you can sharpen more controlled without "rounding" during a manual stroke. After many sharpenings, I use the HF chain sharpener-that does a better job but eats more of the chain, Gretch

 

[glenkey]

I'm as much a tool junkie as anyone, but I'm astounded at the useless gadgets that have been marketed to do something so simple as sharpening a chain. 🙂

Only thing I can add to your post Chuck is a big AMEN.

 

[Steve Worcester]

Your missing it guys. It is about convenience. Snap the thing on and push it down. Look awesome, I don't like how the chain and bar selection is so limited, and yeah, it does exclude the 10 spare chains I already have.

Sharpening on saw with a file takes about 5 minutes, maybe more.
You can get a dremel attachment that works pretty well though and get a dremel that will use 12V or even a battery model (although the battery is dead when I need it).

Your money may be better spent on more chains, bars and a couple field wrenches then if you use a chainsaw alot, a bench mount sharpener.

 

[Robert Manning]

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/

Richard, the arboristsite is the best place I know to ask questions about chainsaws. It's not quite as civilized as this forum, but there is a lot of valuable information there.

I do know that some pro tree service people and loggers use electric sharpeners to save time. Your Stihl dealer may sell a unit that pros use.

I have also heard that Stihl chains stay sharp 30-40 percent longer. They do seem to have harder steel when I file them.