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Ever Time Yourself?

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May 16, 2005
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I whacked a chunk off of a hard maple log with the intent of showing how you can peel rather than hack with the roughing gouge, then for grins, I checked the time as I turned off the bandsaw.

First picture is six and a half minutes from the time I left the saw. I bored the hole for the pin chuck, removed the Super and put the pin chuck on, then roughed the exterior as your basic half-log bowl. No special care taken, but I certainly didn't hack at it either. Had to sharpen once, because I didn't take the bark off, and I ground myself dull on some dirt. Log has been down a year and a half, after all.

Second picture is sixteen minutes after the first. Cut the recess, removed the pin chuck, mounted the Super with 50mm and hauled the interior out. Short trip to grab my iced tea which I left upstairs, and one sharpening of the Sorby 5/8 interrupted the process.

The bowl is going to have a mild lip for holding and passing as a popcorn bowl. Right now it's 12x5.25 and about 7/8 thick, except at the rim. With chain and bandsaw time adding probably another 7-8 minutes, I've got thirty invested. Probably take an hour or more once it's dry.

Thirteen wild turkeys passing the end of the drive just now. Big dog is as tense as a guitar string!
 

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Timing

MM,
After thirteen Wild Turkeys, I'm surprised anything about you would be tense!!!😀
Kurt
 
To avoid time for jaw changing, use a Forstner bit at near ideal diameter for expansion mode on the waste face, and turn a foot tenon for the same jaws in compression mode, or a similar-size socket in expansion. This trick was posted a couple weeks ago by Cliff Rogers at http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=77591

I've not yet tried it to completion, so YMMV.

This site uses VBulletin too, so navigation shouldn't be difficult. But, same as here and SMC, image access for visitors is limited. Words and music should be sufficient. Or, you can register for membership, and kiss your leisure time good-bye.🙄

Joe
 
Ah don't think I'd be turning after 13 wild turkeys ..... maybe 14.😱
 
To avoid time for jaw changing, use a Forstner bit at near ideal diameter for expansion mode on the waste face, and turn a foot tenon for the same jaws in compression mode, or a similar-size socket in expansion. This trick was posted a couple weeks ago by Cliff Rogers at http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=77591

I've not yet tried it to completion, so YMMV.

Don't have that problem, Joe. I feel like Norm Abram when I turn. He doesn't change bits, he changes routers. I change chucks. Three Novas and a pin chuck. I keep pin jaws, the 50mm and the 75(actually 82) on the Novas. Pin chuck is a one inch.

Where I don't have the depth to use the pin chuck, as with this morning's waiting for my daughter to drop the baby off, I clear an area and use the pin jaws.


The ?gaggle? ?flock? was three hens and ten hatchlings, obviously from the second brood. Three jiggers and some sniffs?
 

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We had a club challenge for a 5 minute turning. I got a green blank of Madrone, 3 inches thick, and 9 inched in diameter. From turning the lathe on to turning off, finished turned, just under 5 minutes. I love scrapers!
robo hippy
 
We had a club challenge for a 5 minute turning. I got a green blank of Madrone, 3 inches thick, and 9 inched in diameter. From turning the lathe on to turning off, finished turned, just under 5 minutes.

😀 WOW 😀 I love scrapers! also

did it look anything like this???? i can not take any credit for this piece, but it was nicely done, the judges at richmond liked it also
 

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I saw Judy Ditmar turn a top in 90 seconds. Impressive!!

this summer, James McClure and I did a demo together switching off so we wouldn't get tired or slowed down by talking.
We finish turned an 12" bowl in under 20 minutes including shear scraping the outside and reverse turning the bottom.

I always time myself for demos. I then multiply by 3 to account for explanations and questions. I then set timing points in a demo for major steps.
I then know what i have to skip in order to present the whole demo in the allotted time.
happy turning,
Al
 
Charlie, mine didn't look like the one in the picture. Mine warp, and Madrone really warps. When doing a bowl turning demo, I start by turning a smaller bowl just the way I do in my shop, maybe slower because I don't always get to demo on a PM or Robust. Then I do it slower and explain. I like to start with action, then talk.
robo hippy
 
I don't know why anyone would want to rush through something they enjoy doing, but I suppose some replies here are from those who think speed equals skill. I determine the price of an object based on a per hour rate, because I think it is the best compromise for producer and customer, which is why I time.

I normally consider roughing as a half-hour block, and do not time every piece. A recheck made on this to see if my estimates are correct. In this case, pretty much spot on. I generally sell a dry content bowl like what this will become as a two-hour piece. The wood is extremely ordinary, and could not have cost more than a buck fifty even with burnable waste from both ends. I'll probably use up less than three bucks worth of sandpaper and maybe 5 KWh of electricity, so it's a $5 automatic.

Now a fine piece of wood or warp and go is where I gain the dollars. Eye appeal doubles the price, warp and go is the same price as twice-turned for less time.

Have to time an ornament or two to see if I'm gaining on my rate. Trying to speed up in that department, though the creativity level is so high that I waste a lot of time re-turning things. I've gone to saving sub-assemblies that didn't match for future efforts.
 
I don't know why anyone would want to rush through something they enjoy doing, but I suppose some replies here are from those who think speed equals skill. I determine the price of an object based on a per hour rate, because I think it is the best compromise for producer and customer, which is why I time.

I normally consider roughing as a half-hour block, and do not time every piece. A recheck made on this to see if my estimates are correct. In this case, pretty much spot on. I generally sell a dry content bowl like what this will become as a two-hour piece. The wood is extremely ordinary, and could not have cost more than a buck fifty even with burnable waste from both ends. I'll probably use up less than three bucks worth of sandpaper and maybe 5 KWh of electricity, so it's a $5 automatic.

Now a fine piece of wood or warp and go is where I gain the dollars. Eye appeal doubles the price, warp and go is the same price as twice-turned for less time.

Have to time an ornament or two to see if I'm gaining on my rate. Trying to speed up in that department, though the creativity level is so high that I waste a lot of time re-turning things. I've gone to saving sub-assemblies that didn't match for future efforts.

Howdy MM........

As you do, I believe many lathe artists come to a conclusion on price of a turning based strictly on cost of materials and hours invested in it. I guess this is a very logical way of looking at it, and very "business like"......it works for many business applications very successfully, and there's nothing wrong with using the "tried and true"!

Just to add another concept into the thread I'm adding my thoughts on how I decide what price to apply to a turning.

========================================

There are only two considerations I use to determine the price I'll get for my work:

1) "ARTISTIC APPEAL"
I don't think any turner will deny there are some pieces that will have "IT", and some will have an artistic appeal only to a lesser degree. Because of this, some pieces will bring more, and be worth more.

2) LOCATION
Where the potential buyer sees your turning will have a lot to do with how willing he/she will be to spend their money.

========================================

Since cost, and hours invested aren't really a factor in pricing, there are some turnings I don't make any money at all......that's just part of the overall game plan!!!!




Anyway......that's just another way of looking at it!

otis of cologne









.
 
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I never rush through a piece. Mostly it is trying to perfect my technique to the point that it is automatic. This to me is part of the 'Art' of turning. I love seeing the shavings fly, and piling up against the wall. I love seeing the curve of a bowl form. I love to see how smooth and even of a cut I can do so there is less sanding to do. I can't wait to get to the next piece of wood to see what beauty lies within it.
robo hippy
 
I don't know why anyone would want to rush through something they enjoy doing, but I suppose some replies here are from those who think speed equals skill.

For me, going fast is exactly what makes it fun. So I get to double dip. I go fast because it is fun, and I go fast because it makes me more money. Fast cars, fast boats, fast bowls on the lathe - it is in the nature of many of us to go fast. Of course, I gave up fast women long ago. 😉 As a movie quote goes:

I feel the need - the NEED FOR SPEED! 😀😀😀
 
"I don't know why anyone would want to rush through something they enjoy doing..."

Atta Boy, MM! 😀
 
For me, going fast is exactly what makes it fun. So I get to double dip. I go fast because it is fun, and I go fast because it makes me more money. Fast cars, fast boats, fast bowls on the lathe - it is in the nature of many of us to go fast. Of course, I gave up fast women long ago.

Dragsters, sports cars, jets and ambulances have given me all the thrills I need for this life. Most all of them just took me farther from home and the slowest woman I ever dated, who still thrills me.
 
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