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Espresso tamper question

Kim Metzger

Kim Metzger

Joined
Aug 28, 2014
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Ajijic, Mexico
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I'm just now getting around to making a handle for my espresso tamper but can't figure out how to get the M8 threaded insert into my blank. The insert has no slots for a screwdriver or opening for a hex key. It looks like I'd have to drill a 1/2" hole and epoxy it in. Am I missing something?

woodworldtx.com

Coffee Tamper - 58mm Stainless Steel Coffee Tamper Kit

58mm flat. A high quality stainless steel coffee tamper kits. Included a M8 threaded insert, which can screw into the wooden handle ad will be more solid. Make this lovely gift to your friends, family members, barista or coffee enthusiasts, you will be remembered with gratitude! Material...
woodworldtx.com
 
Quickest solution is to press it in hole. Might enlarge the hole if you have a drill just under diameter.
Put masking tape over both ends to keep glue out. Put a few drops of 5 minute epoxy in the hole and press it into the hole wipe an glue off.

Of course two nuts on the bolt would let you screw it in if you have the nuts

Can cut slots with a dremel cut off wheel
 
Kim, you may can get a hex bolt of the right size to fit the insert and a nut to fit the bolt. Put the nut on the bolt and screw into insert. Tighten the nut against the insert and use the hex head to drive the insert into your wood.
 
Maybe the easiest solution is to screw the threaded rod onto the tamper, screw the insert onto the threaded rod, and then screw your blank/handle onto the insert. Hope this makes sense.
 
Kim Metzger said:
I'm just now getting around to making a handle for my espresso tamper but can't figure out how to get the M8 threaded insert into my blank. The insert has no slots for a screwdriver or opening for a hex key. It looks like I'd have to drill a 1/2" hole and epoxy it in. Am I missing something?

woodworldtx.com

Coffee Tamper - 58mm Stainless Steel Coffee Tamper Kit

58mm flat. A high quality stainless steel coffee tamper kits. Included a M8 threaded insert, which can screw into the wooden handle ad will be more solid. Make this lovely gift to your friends, family members, barista or coffee enthusiasts, you will be remembered with gratitude! Material...
woodworldtx.com
Click to expand...
Use an M8 bolt with a head on it (shorter than the insert). Screw it into the insert all the way and then use the head of the bolt to screw it into your blank. Then back the bolt out of the blank and the insert will remain behind.

Edit: I see that Jim has already provided this answer :cool:
 
Michael Anderson said:
Maybe the easiest solution is to screw the threaded rod onto the tamper, screw the insert onto the threaded rod, and then screw your blank/handle onto the insert. Hope this makes sense.
Click to expand...
You could as you say assemble all the metal parts a use them to screw the screw the insert in.
My concern would be damaging these parts if they don’t hold up to the small stress involved.
 
Michael Anderson said:
Maybe the easiest solution is to screw the threaded rod onto the tamper, screw the insert onto the threaded rod, and then screw your blank/handle onto the insert. Hope this makes sense.
Click to expand...
I've done exactly this several times with this exact insert. Results are mixed. Drill your hole to the size of the body of the insert, or very slightly larger. Must be smaller than the threads.

A tap of the proper size could be your friend. Depends upon the hardness of the wood.. If your hole is too large you may need to use epoxy.

I had one without epoxy come loose on the lathe mounted on the mandrel while turning. No problems when using epoxy.

I've switched to the knurled brass inserts. Epoxy is required but they have been solid performers.
 
Kim Metzger said:
Thanks Jonathan - I'm going with a hole that the insert fits into without trying to screw it in. In this case a 1/2" hole. Speaking of mandrels, I'll be using a homemade screw chuck, using a M8 x 20 tpi bolt.
Click to expand...
Instead of gluing your insert (seems the weakest of all the options), since you’re not using the insert as intended, just drill and tap your handle for the connector tube. Ditch the insert altogether. If you make nice threads, you wouldn’t need to do anything else. If you’re nervous, lock it in place with a bit of Ca glue.
The threads on a metric piece is measured in the distance between adjacent threads, expressed in mm, ie. 1.5, 1.75, etc. The usual for an 8mm bolt is 1.5, most common, 1.75 is a coarse thread. Specialty stuff might be 1.0 or 1.25

tpi (threads per inch) relates to standard (inch) fittings
 
Looking at the product page, inserts of this style require a tool to install the insert. There are dedicated tools of varying cost, but the simplest is M8 threaded rod with two M8 nuts jammed together. There's enough room on one side of the jam nuts for the insert, and the other side goes into a drill or Jacobs chuck (e.g. mounted in your tailstock).

Here's one example of a simple, dedicated tool: E-Z LOK DT-M8 Knife Thread Insert for Wood Installation Tool with Threaded Mandrel

From my experience, it's definitely nicer to have a proper tool vs the jam nut solution if you're assembling a significant quantity of inserts.
 
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