Easy Start Stihl saws

[Gretch Flo]

I mentioned earlier my obtaining an 18" 250 and then a 20" 291. easy start5. Love the starting. However,the tensioning mechanism is one big PITA!!!!!. Does anyone out there have problem getting the bar/chain on right and then adjusted??? For those that don't know what I am talking about, there is a wheel attached to the bar that you turn to get the chain tight. Then you put the cover on but a little loose and then there is a notched wheel you use to tighten to final tension, or release when done for the day.
Both saws have a tendency to clog when ripping, even though I am careful not to hold horizontal very long so the ribbons can clear. But at the bottom of the cut to avoid hitting the ground, it goers horizontal. Takes about 2 sec of running to get clogged, necessitating taking the thing apart and chain off to clear. This happened with other chain saws but not so quick
This summer I took the 250 back and the wheel had become bent, making tensioning impossible. (under warrentee )The owner explained it's easier to get back on with a chest high work counter like he had. Yeh, right . as if I have a high counter out where I cut wood. Today I got the 291 clogged. and spent 30 min getting the bar back on (wheel didn't get bent). Mostly used ungloved hands for the dexterity of guiding the chain into the bar grooves GRRRRRRRR. Is this just me???????😱Gretch

 

[Bill Boehme]

..... Is this just me???????😱Gretch

I don' know, but I have never had the kind of problems that you are describing.

Getting the saw clogged sounds like you may be cutting down into a pile of chips and shavings. If the saw can't expel the chips, it won't take long to clog it up. Keep the shavings cleared away from where you are cutting and get the wood off the ground when you are cutting it.

 

[Gretch Flo]

Stihl clogging

Bill-do you have the easy start??? The problem with this clogging is the wheel tightening mechanism that doesn;t allow the long chips to expel as easily ( think). The new 291 has in addition a split second immediate stop of the chain when the trigger is released, a new safety feature. I do realize that moving the mound of shavings will contribute alot, but it happened when there was no hill, but at the bottom of the cut.
Regardless of that, it is after cleaning it out from the clog, I have the trouble putting the bar./chain on. The same would occur if I put on a new chain. Gretch

 

[hockenbery]

When I rip I keep one eye on the cut line and the other on the chip (long streamer) ejection.
I can clear the ships If I pull the saw toward me to make a 3-4 inch space between the bucking prongs and the end of the log this clears the chips.
The new streamers go to ground and the ones beginning to clog usually shoot out. I sometimes stop cutting a pull the streamers out? Then I feed the saw back into the cut. Ittakes just a few seconds to clear the saw and I'm cutting all the while. I have nevr had to open the cover. To get the chips out.
I find that I usually hit on a feed rate of the saw that keeps the streams streaming. If I cut too faster I make more streamers closer together.

My Stihl is an older model mid 90s

My saw has chip guide inside the cover.
I think this is supposed to separate the chips and chain.
Some people grind the end of the chip guide off to allow a wide port for chip ejection.
I've not done this. you might look at how tight the space is behind the chain and the chip guide. If chips/streamers are wedging into the channel, consider opening it up.

Al

 

[DOCworks]

Gretch,
I'm with Al on this one, I have a 440 mag with a 25" and 20" bar. I haven't had issues with it clogging, but the chain tension is not what you described, mine is on the side and requires a tool (flat blade) to loosen and tighten the chain after the cover is back on. I spent a week using Dave B.'s Husky up at John C Campbell where I was assisting Dave and cut maple all week and didn't have any problems with it either. Well except I kept knicking my right knuckle on the housing latch when I was starting it. Ah well that maple needed a little color anyway. Should have worn gloves I suppose. I do know on some of the arbor forums they talk about smoothing out the ejection port or putting liners in.
Bill

 

[TJ Hamilton]

Gretch:

I've got an Stihl MS 250C with the wheel adjustment. At first I found it to be a three handed operation and thus I was frustrated when changing chains.


My solution is to prop the bar on cutoff so it is parallel with your bench or the ground and wedge something under the body to keep the saw in that position. Then you can use both hands to thread the chain over the nose and around the gears, spin the wheel to take up the slack, and put the cover on.

Also, regarding clogging, I make sure the chips are falling to the ground and keep the pile clear of the bottom of the saw. I've not had clogging problems.

Like you I love the "easy start" and the fact that it really starts on the second pull.

All the best, Tom

 

[Bill Pottorf]

changing chains.

I have 2 ms361 ez start saws and love them. When changing chains in the shop, I use an EZ clamp to clamp the rear handle to the workbench. Then thread the bar with a new or cleaned chain off of the saw with the nose up. Then it is easy to place the bar and chain on the saw and to position the bar on the saw body and place the rear chain over the sprocket. Now it is easy to adjust the chain tension slightly with the tightening tool to keep things in place while you add the nuts and the cover. In the field, I just use the truck gate to rest the saw on. You can clamp it if you don't mind denting the gate lol.

When ripping with the chain, I keep my eye on the long cutoffs coming off the cut. If they begin to get into the chain adjusting area to stop it, stop the cut and remove the saw from the log and rev it a couple of times away from anyone, the log or your legs to clear the offcuts. It they are binding and will not come out with that method, take the saw to the log, rest the bottom of the chain on the log without reving the motor and pull backwards, keeping your trigger finger away from the trigger. Then you can rev the saw to clear the remaining chips in the area. Now you can go back to the cut and continue. Works for me most of the time. Clean up your saw when you finish cutting for the day and prep it for the next days work. Hope this helps.🙂

 

[Gretch Flo]

I have 2 ms361 ez start saws and love them. When changing chains in the shop, I use an EZ clamp to clamp the rear handle to the workbench. Then thread the bar with a new or cleaned chain off of the saw with the nose up. Then it is easy to place the bar and chain on the saw and to position the bar on the saw body and place the rear chain over the sprocket. Now it is easy to adjust the chain tension slightly with the tightening tool to keep things in place while you add the nuts and the cover. In the field, I just use the truck gate to rest the saw on. You can clamp it if you don't mind denting the gate lol.

When ripping with the chain, I keep my eye on the long cutoffs coming off the cut. If they begin to get into the chain adjusting area to stop it, stop the cut and remove the saw from the log and rev it a couple of times away from anyone, the log or your legs to clear the offcuts. It they are binding and will not come out with that method, take the saw to the log, rest the bottom of the chain on the log without reving the motor and pull backwards, keeping your trigger finger away from the trigger. Then you can rev the saw to clear the remaining chips in the area. Now you can go back to the cut and continue. Works for me most of the time. Clean up your saw when you finish cutting for the day and prep it for the next days work. Hope this helps.🙂

Thanks Bill. Will try to read manual and your notes-again. Maybe next week if weather holds. May pick your brain if I don't understand-that new braking system is different!!!! Hopefully the chain won't clog, Gretch

 

[Bill Boehme]

Bill-do you have the easy start???

Seems pretty easy to start to me, but I don't remember if it had a feature with that name -- it is around 15 years old and still starts on the second pull. Very easy to start and no jerk-back.

I spent half of yesterday cutting some dry mesquite and an hour or so today cutting green mesquite into bowl blanks (trees felled yesterday). I learned from experience doing it the wrong way many years ago and do not let the discharge port get buried in the pile of shavings and chips. Since I didn't enjoy taking the cover apart to clear the shavings out, I started paying attention to how deep the shavings are. Sounds like one of the new "features" of your saw is being more of a hindrance than a help.

 

[Gretch Flo]

Seems pretty easy to start to me, but I don't remember if it had a feature with that name -- it is around 15 years old and still starts on the second pull. Very easy to start and no jerk-back.

I spent half of yesterday cutting some dry mesquite and an hour or so today cutting green mesquite into bowl blanks (trees felled yesterday). I learned from experience doing it the wrong way many years ago and do not let the discharge port get buried in the pile of shavings and chips. Since I didn't enjoy taking the cover apart to clear the shavings out, I started paying attention to how deep the shavings are. Sounds like one of the new "features" of your saw is being more of a hindrance than a help.

The new "quick stop" (Quick stop plus) safety feature on the MS 291 is partly to fault. When you release the trigger the chain stops with a subtle jerk like slamming into a door. That plus the tensioning wheel that is just in the front of the bottom housing where the chips collect, I think ,add to it's being overly sensitive to clogging- My other stihls have done this but I learned how to avoid. The instructions say the chain should be "snug". There is a learning curve here as it is diff from other saws,
Gretch

 

[Carole Valentine]

Gretch, I have the Ezystart 250C and do the same as Bill P. I have no problem putting the chain and bar back on. Now...when you ask me about the $#%@! oil cap it's another story! Whoever designed those things should be tarred and feathered IMHO. I dread having to add oil to the darn thing.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Gretch, I have the Ezystart 250C and do the same as Bill P. I have no problem putting the chain and bar back on. Now...when you ask me about the $#%@! oil cap it's another story! Whoever designed those things should be tarred and feathered IMHO. I dread having to add oil to the darn thing.

Now that you mention the model number, that is the same as mine, but I didn't recall details about what particular features that model has. I do know that it has always been very easy to start even if unused for a year or two. There is also no problem with the starter rope jerking back (which I presume is what they mean by Easy Start).

I have never had a problem with putting the bar back on or putting on a new chain in the field. It might be that you need to rotate the sprocket wheel at the back of the bar a bit to make the bar easier to install. If you find the sprocket wheel hard to turn, then the thing probably has packed dirt and chips gumming up the works. Give it a thorough cleaning and then oil the moving parts. Things should be very easy to adjust after that. I normally give my saw a thorough cleaning after each time I use it and then use compressed air to clean the tight places.

 

[Dale Miner]

Gretch, I have the Ezystart 250C and do the same as Bill P. I have no problem putting the chain and bar back on. Now...when you ask me about the $#%@! oil cap it's another story! Whoever designed those things should be tarred and feathered IMHO. I dread having to add oil to the darn thing.

But Carol,

If they did not have that design cap, how would you get those lovely oil and gas stains on your trousers and shoes?

 

[Gretch Flo]

oil cap

Gretch, I have the Ezystart 250C and do the same as Bill P. I have no problem putting the chain and bar back on. Now...when you ask me about the $#%@! oil cap it's another story! Whoever designed those things should be tarred and feathered IMHO. I dread having to add oil to the darn thing.

On my 250 when taking it to be "serviced_-I complained about the cap. Gave me a new one. I finally figured out to line it up (black/white part of the cap)) at 11:30. Then when I had to take it in for a ruptured primer bulb, I noticed I couldn't get the cap back on at 11:30, so they must have replaced it again. (warentee work). It now goes in upside down from the other one. I pay attention to which saw I have when taking the cap off. Yes Carol, they should be tarred and feathered. When it takes 15 minutes to getn a cap on right , there has to be some problem!!!!
BTW I had the "opportunity" to clean the chain/bar on the Stihl 291 2 days ago and it went on fine-did it looking from the top. Some days it does pay to get out of bed, 😀 Gretch

 

[Bill Boehme]

Even though I have a 250C, I must have missed out on getting the oil cap that everybody loves to complain about. I don't know nuttin' 'bout no black/white cap and whatever 11:30 has to do wit' it. I knock off early for lunch at 11:30. 😀

I can't complain about the oil cap on my 250C. It is a plain screw-in cap with O-ring seal and a deeply recessed slot so that it can be installed and removed with a large screwdriver or the all-in-1 tool that came with the saw. I guess that I might complain if I forgot the tool or a screwdriver.

And ... no wonder you couldn't gt the old cap on if you had it upside down. 🙄

 

[waltben]

Bill - how old's your saw???? I've three Sthils, all with the stupid cam lock caps that sooner or later won't go on right. If they finally did away with them, I might just get a new saw!!

And the smallest one is a 250c - but it weighs as much as my one year newer 260, but with no where near the power. That easy start stuff adds a good pound or more.

 

[Gretch Flo]

Even though I have a 250C, I must have missed out on getting the oil cap that everybody loves to complain about. I don't know nuttin' 'bout no black/white cap and whatever 11:30 has to do wit' it. I knock off early for lunch at 11:30. 😀

I can't complain about the oil cap on my 250C. It is a plain screw-in cap with O-ring seal and a deeply recessed slot so that it can be installed and removed with a large screwdriver or the all-in-1 tool that came with the saw. I guess that I might complain if I forgot the tool or a screwdriver.

And ... no wonder you couldn't gt the old cap on if you had it upside down. 🙄

Bill the "new ones" you don't use a screw driver. They have a pull out ?"handle" that you twist. One half of cap is black and the other half is white.You have to find the "sweet spot" (there is a 1/100,000,000" leeway!!!!!😉where it plunks right down before twisting. Other wise only part of it seats and when twisted, it doesn;t seat all the way allowing oil to rapidly leak (DAMHIKT) . ON one saw the black part is downward, and the other saw the black part is upward, so I have to remember which for the 11:30 position-as I use both saws depending on what I am doing. The 291 is a 20: bar and has alot more power. The 250 can "bog" under easily as the kerf is closing. Gretch

 

[Bill Boehme]

Bill the "new ones" you don't use a screw driver. They have a pull out ?"handle" that you twist. One half of cap is black and the other half is white.You have to find the "sweet spot" (there is a 1/100,000,000" leeway!!!!!😉where it plunks right down before twisting. Other wise only part of it seats and when twisted, it doesn;t seat all the way allowing oil to rapidly leak (DAMHIKT) . ON one saw the black part is downward, and the other saw the black part is upward, so I have to remember which for the 11:30 position-as I use both saws depending on what I am doing. The 291 is a 20: bar and has alot more power. The 250 can "bog" under easily as the kerf is closing. Gretch

... and, somebody is real proud of that design, too. I guess that I missed out on having that wonderful invention on my saw.