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Easy Rougher Review

Joined
Oct 29, 2005
Messages
886
Likes
11
Location
wetter washington
Website
www.ralphandellen.us
Almost a year ago I noticed a new tool on the market, the Ci1 Easy Rougher ( http://www.easywoodtools.com/ ), like many I was unconvinced. However, I did know of a similar tool some bowl turners in southern Oregon use. Over the winter I discussed this tool with one of those turners and learned why they had developed the “Big Ugly Tool”.

When I went to “Super Wednesday” (Craft Supplies annual sale) and the Utah Woodturning Symposium, I had a chance to watch the Easy Rougher in use, talk to the designer of the tool and try the tool for myself.

I walked away so impressed I bought one for myself.

If you aren’t familiar with the tool, it’s made from a heavy bar (~1/2 inch) stock of 300 series stainless steel, with a large handle and a four sided carbide cutter. The tool is designed to be presented to the wood horizontal. While the cutting action is generally considered a “scrape”, the sharpness of the carbide results in cutting large shavings off the wood. It also has an optional plastic shield.

So far I have tried it on two bowl blanks, both of these were cut to an octagon (i.e. 8 sided) by a chain saw. They were not band-sawed to almost round. The first blank was a piece of heavy wet Big Leaf Maple. The Maple was so wet I ended up with sap everywhere (see note below). The 2nd blank was dry Plum.

With both blanks I found that the Easy Rougher did its job, it knocked the corners off the wood and made the blank round. The big advantage the Easy Rougher has, over my big Bowl Gouge, is where the force from the roughing goes. With a Bowl Gouge, much of the force goes into the tool rest but the rest goes into your hands.

Since the Easy Rougher is presented to the wood level, most the force goes into the tool rest, not into your hands. Most of the force on your hands is the effort it takes to maintain the Easy Rougher as level. As a result, your hands see less force. This means less effort on the Turners part. This lower effort makes it easy for the Turner to do more, with less fatigue. It also means the Turners with various issues (Arthritis, etc) can do more turning.

I found I had to restrict the “width” of the cut to less then ½ of the cutting edge, or I would stall my lathe. I also found I had to not feed too hard, or I would also stall the lathe. I noted that it was easier to “over feed” this cutter then any of my Bowl Gouges.

I found that the optional shield is useful, when the blank is mostly round and rounder. It does help reduce the amount of shavings that go flying around the lathe, and all over the Turner. I did find that the shield is almost useless during the early part of “knocking the corners off”. This is because the vibration is so great the shield is quickly vibrated off the tool. I could not get the screw on the shield tight enough, during this phase, to keep the shield on.

I did continue to use the Easy Rougher after the blank was completely rounded and ready to be turned into a bowl. At this point I started switching between using the Easy Rougher and my Bowl Gouges.

I found that if I did deep cuts with the Easy Rougher, there was considerably more tear-out then similar deep cuts with a Bowl Gouge. If I reduced the force the Easy Rougher would leave an acceptable rough turn finish.

I did find that the amount of effort it took for me to form the bowl to be similar between the Easy Rougher and a Bowl Gouge. However, consistently the Bowl Gouge gave a better finish.

I also found, that at least for my experience level with the Easy Rougher, it was easier for me to get a good shape on the bowl, with a Bowl Gouge then with the Easy Rougher. It might be that, with more experience, I could get a good form with the Easy Rougher, but I would still have to “clean up” the cuts with a gouge or shear scraper.

One thing I noticed, at both Super Wednesday and the Utah Symposium the owner of Easy Tools was using a Tool Rest stop. That is a sleeve, on the shaft of the Tool Rest; the helps hold the Tool Rest at the specified height. The reason he does this is due to the force the Easy Rougher puts on the Tool Rest, I noticed that my Tool Rest tended to be forced down, during the roughing, no matter how much I tightened the handle. So now I need to make myself some stops (I’ve had that on my “Round-To-It” list for some time anyway)

TTFN
Ralph

Note: You do know that “back when” they used to harvest sap from Big Leaf Maple for Maple Syrup, ask me how I know, and yes I was wearing a full face mask
 
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I just got my easy rougher and find it to do a very good job roughing out bowls. It is faster for i don't have to think too much, just put the tool to the wood. It doesn't quite work as easy as the video on woods like walnut, and oak. it takes more effort and you can't press in as much for you will bog down your lathe.
I switch from rougher to gouge during my turning process but use it a lot. I am still perfecting my bowl gouge work so the rougher helps speed up my work.
I wonder how long the edge will hold up on the rougher before I need to switch edges? I bought an extra cutter so I would not have to wait.
This forum is great for me. I get tons of tips here so keep it up. I am new to the turning world and need lots of help. Thanks again to all the members who post. Gary
 
My easy rougher has saved me a lot of time and effort in truing up out of round bowl blanks. When I turn wet wood I wish the shield had a windshield wiper.
 
Ralph - nice to see an objective review comparing this tool with the "Big Ugly". I like the way you carefully described the different finishes and specifically stated where the Easy Rougher excelled and on the contrary where your heavy bowl gouge excelled. Also, you correctly described a subtle, but major reason for this tool's ease of use - the presentation angle and direction of force onto the tool rest. This review will be very helpful to those trying to evaluate the myriad of tools out there! Thanks for taking the time (away from turning) to share this.

Jerry
nk2c
 
I just got my easy rougher and find it to do a very good job roughing out bowls. It is faster for i don't have to think too much, just put the tool to the wood. It doesn't quite work as easy as the video on woods like walnut, and oak. it takes more effort and you can't press in as much for you will bog down your lathe.
I switch from rougher to gouge during my turning process but use it a lot. I am still perfecting my bowl gouge work so the rougher helps speed up my work.
I wonder how long the edge will hold up on the rougher before I need to switch edges? I bought an extra cutter so I would not have to wait.
This forum is great for me. I get tons of tips here so keep it up. I am new to the turning world and need lots of help. Thanks again to all the members who post. Gary

Gary, The Carbide inserts will hold an acceptably sharp edge 6 to 8 times as long as HSS or M2 tool steel or 3 to 4 times longer than powdered metal turning tools
 
But can they be sharpened? If they only hold an edge 4,6 or 10 times as long it means they still need sharpening. I haven't heard mention of that.
 
But can they be sharpened? If they only hold an edge 4,6 or 10 times as long it means they still need sharpening. I haven't heard mention of that.

Of course they can. That's how they got sharp in the first place.

All kidding aside, Google [sharpening carbide] reveals some specialized wheels and procedures, as well as pro and con advisories.
 
Joe I sharpen carbide all the time using a green wheel. However this may be a different type of carbide like the Hunter tools and I have not heard a thing about that or mention of how to sharpen them. That's why I ask.
 
Gary, The Carbide inserts will hold an acceptably sharp edge 6 to 8 times as long as HSS or M2 tool steel or 3 to 4 times longer than powdered metal turning tools
Ken,
I would thought the carbide would last longer than 8 x M2 steel.
I typically sharpen my M2 bowl gouge 4 times to rough a 14 inch bowl.

Are you suggesting a new carbide insert every 4 bowls ?
or Sharpening.

Maybe the comparison is off a bit since sharpening is partly to clean the sap and gunk from the bevel on a tool that isn't really dull.

-al
 
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re sharpening

I think the reference here, should be related to how the tool is presented also. With a HSS scraper, you would be going back to sharpen less then every minute, if you wanted to keep a really sharp edge on the tool. While a gouge (with the support from the bevel) lasts much longer.

As for how long the Easy Rougher would last, it depends, since I am using it to take bark off. With the the grit and dirt that is usually there. I expect that the edge will not last as long as someone that is working with de-barked wood. I know Craig has stated numbers like "hundreds" of bowls, but I suspect there might be some market hype in that number.
 
Depends on how you use the scraper. A roughing scraper such as my 3/8" HSS cutter in a 3/4" bar is used with out a burr. I do leave a more blunt edge than the C1 because it holds a reasonably sharp edge longer. I present the tool with the bar horizontal because it's just a rough scraping action and designed to get rid of wood.
 
I am wondering to how you would sharpen the crown carbide tips - jigs or what?

How long will they last - alot depends on what your using them for ? wood type etc - ........ I have found that i notice them getting dull somewhere around 17-20 bowls. I dont mean that it is time to change the tip im just saying i notice it does not cut quit as sharply at this point. I still keep using it for roughing though until it gets worse........
That is just my opnion though - I use the tool to do initial ruffing and hollowing (rough turning) then put it down and change to my 1/2 bowl gouge or scrapper depending what im doing. Its just my simple protocol for roughing but it works for me and i can rough out "very" quickly.
 
Dan
I asked that very question of Criag (make of Easy Rougher), you need diamond sharpeners and jigs. He tried it and couldnt' get them as sharp as what he is buying.
I would assume the same is true for Hunter and any other carbide cutter, that it's tough for the "user" to get them as sharp as the factory
 
Ken,
I would thought the carbide would last longer than 8 x M2 steel.
I typically sharpen my M2 bowl gouge 4 times to rough a 14 inch bowl.

Are you suggesting a new carbide insert every 4 bowls ?
or Sharpening.

Maybe the comparison is off a bit since sharpening is partly to clean the sap and gunk from the bevel on a tool that isn't really dull.

-al
If you figure in to account that there are 4 faces to each insert, then you wind up with the equivalent of an insert lasting through 32 sharpenings, that and the time spent sharpening versus the time turning. Carbide is a trade off. Based on your theory of 4 bowls actually it would be closer to 16 or a few more per insert.
 
Hey Ken

Ken:::::::If you figure in to account that there are 4 faces to each insert, then you wind up with the equivalent of an insert lasting through 32 sharpenings, that and the time spent sharpening versus the time turning. Carbide is a trade off. Based on your theory of 4 bowls actually it would be closer to 16 or a few more per insert.
I mean that i can get up to 20 easy from one side alone. However, I Agree with you in theory but when i use mine i cut right to left and left to right and at angles, end grain etc..........Resharpening would be nice but i have to agree that they will not be as sharp as from the factory.... and i have attempted sharpening them but they do not come out as sharp - usable ? I guess but....
I think of it this way - I am now buying them from a good source at about $4.00/each.........lasting up to 17-20 somewhere in that area and then i flip it to the opposite edge so i have new sharp edges at all angles again.
So at minimum ill get 40 rough outs..........divided by the total number of bowls and i dont mind paying for them.
 
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