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Duplicating Turned Knobs

Joined
Jul 19, 2017
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Location
Roscoe, Illinois
I need to turn 10 Shaker style knobs that should at least visually be identical. I have no experience spindle turning but have done some test knobs. It's not difficult to turn the knobs but, since they need to be identical, I thought I would make a template to match each knob to.

What's the best way to do this?

1. Use a contour gauge to create the shape and they match the knobs to the contour gauge.
2. Use the contour gauge, but only to create a wood template to which each knob would be matched.
 
Joined
Oct 27, 2022
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Location
Auburn, CA
I need to turn 10 Shaker style knobs that should at least visually be identical. I have no experience spindle turning but have done some test knobs. It's not difficult to turn the knobs but, since they need to be identical, I thought I would make a template to match each knob to.

What's the best way to do this?

1. Use a contour gauge to create the shape and they match the knobs to the contour gauge.
2. Use the contour gauge, but only to create a wood template to which each knob would be matched.
Make the template. It is too easy to bump the contour gauge out of position each time you check your work.
 
Joined
Jun 18, 2023
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Cincinnati, OH
My approach is to make a full sized accurate drawing, extend edges of fillets, points of max and min diametrs, ends of the turning an inch or so beyond maximum diameter and ends. Photocopy, cut out a rectangle along the ends of the extended lines and an inch beyond top and bottom. Glue to something like the solid cardboard at the back of a pad of paper. Cut oversized turning blanks, true the blanks to cylinders whose diameter is the max diameter of the knobs. Make one extended line of the drawing a reference (perhaps the top of the knob), transfer that reference to the blank, and maintain that reference on the blank until the very end. The drawing can rest on the tool rest while extending lines from the drawing onto the blank.

Develop your own approach for what part(s) of the knob to turn last, next, et cetera. I usually part in to the maximum diameter points first, and work from there in both directions. Took me a lot of practice to develop an approach.
 

hockenbery

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If you are comfortable with a template use one.
It may not be that helpful once you get started.
Most knobs are just wonky looking spin tops.

Most important concept is that spindle runs have to look alike not be identical.
If the high and low diameters match (calipers) and the elements align verticallly (story board), the curves just need to be similar.

I do what @Richard Hodsdon suggests.
Turn a cylinder to the max outside diameter.
Mark the depths with the story board
Part in and shape.

I’d mount mine on a small screw center so the mounting hole is drilled first.
I would practice a new shape with scrap wood - make 3 or 4 or 5 until the last 2 look good.

Then turn at least 12 - toss the ones that look a bit off as you go.
Then pick the best 10.
Gets hard to find any rejects on the 2nd run of knobs.

Make nice curves on the domes. These are what people see.
This is the cut that will work for the dome
Spindle gouge cut.GIF
 
Last edited:
Joined
Aug 14, 2007
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With a tenon or without? This is an old video I did, and I used to do a lot of wood drawer pulls for my furniture. I made all of them for my new house and shop too. I used a screw. If you want them to be perfectly identical, then make maybe twice as many as you need because they seldom seem to be all exactly alike. First couple are for practice. I don't have much experience with the ones that have a tenon on them. Same process. Some do say to use side grain rather than end grain since screws tend to tear out threads in the end grain. I did use pan head screws with a coarse thread. No problems thus far...

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RoA1dMimSN8&t=22s


robo hippy
 
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