Drilling dowel?

[John Torchick]

I was going to drill and turn a piece of dowel to make handles for some HSS pieces that will eventually be a Bedan tool and something else that I haven't decided on yet. My dilemma is: The dowel is too small for my Supernova2 chuck and too big for my HF three jaw chuck. Any suggestions, besides getting another chuck (wife might have a comment on this)? I have a steady rest that would help with drilling. Thanks.

 

[Mike Johnson]

If you put a center point on each end of the dowel you can mount a Jacobs drill chuck into the lathe head stock and use the tail stock to advance the dowel in the drill bit while using your other hand to keep the dowel centered on the drill bit. If you are good at keeping the dowel level with the lathe ways you can easily free hand the same process without the tail stock, just make sure you get the drill bit started in the center of the dowel, you want a good center point driven into the dowel to start the drill bit in.

 

[Richard Coers]

Turn a wood insert that will fit in your chuck and bore a hole to match the dowel. Use a hand saw to cut a slot in the insert so the force from the chuck will squeeze the dowel.

 

[Perry Hilbert]

Just drilled a hole yesterday using a chuck to hold the head stock end and used a center drill to mark the tail stock end. Before I tightened the chuck, I mounted the drill chuck with a brad point bit and entered on to the hole at the end of the dowel.. Then I tightened the chuck jaws on the dowel and turned the chuck by hand to start the drill bit to stay on center. after a 1/4 inch or so, I turned the lathe on and the bit held the tail end of the dowel on center while it drilled. For some reason the brad point drills seem to stay on center better than either standard or bullet point drill bits

 

[hockenbery]

Mike described the way I drill tool handles. After turning the handle a fitting the Ferrell, I put the spur drive in the tailstock and Jacobs chuck in the head stock and do what mike said.

I use Richards method for some things.

I often grip small diameter pieces in the center of the chuck. The points of the jaws will hold pretty well. Most of them open to a inch and close almost to a bit more than a 1/2”
You can improve the hold by Turing a small tenon so there I’d a shoulder to rest on the jaws.

 

[John Torchick]

I was thinking of making a jam chuck or collet similar to the method Richard mentioned. The jaws don't close enough to grip the dowel. Put the steady rest on and the Jacobs chuck in the tailstock. Making tool handles. Forgot to get copper for the ferrules at Lowe's!!!

 

[hockenbery]

The jaws don't close enough to grip the dowel.

You have a smaller dowel than I thought.. I can grip dowels 5/8” and larger in the center section meant to grip a worm screw. It’s not the best but gets the job done sometimes.

 

[John Torchick]

hb, might try that. Didn't know how secure it would be.

 

[hockenbery]

hb, might try that. Didn't know how secure it would be.

It is not a great hold but works ok for small spindles.

 

[Bill Boehme]

John, you missed your opportunity to get your wife a new chuck for Valentine's Day.

I also drill from the headstock the way that Mike and Al do it. I think that it is the best way to get a straight hole. I have tried using a chuck to hold the dowel, but invariably it results in a crooked hole. I think that the reason is because pressure from the drill in the tailstock can cause the dowel to rock ever so slightly since there isn't a tenon with square shoulders.

When drilling from the headstock, begin by drilling a small pilot hole and then increase the diameter in small increments.

 

[John Rander]

Mike, Al and Bill explained things well. The first time I made handles from smaller diameter "dowels" I realized that I couldn't chuck the ends. Drilling from the headstock, as described, works very well; you'll need to go slow (low lathe speed) with a firm grip on the handle you're drilling. I pulled my handle backwards into a four-prong center placed in my tailstock to start without the handle turning on me. I found that a small starter hole is essential to begin (I went straight away with a 3/8" (10 mm) diameter drill bit). The deepest I have drilled handles this way is about 4" (10cm). Incidentally, I also mount the ferrules before drilling.

 

[John Torchick]

Bill, her birthday is next week but I already bought her a birthstone necklace and matching ring. A chuck would be a let-down. Our anniversary is in June, though. If I buy her a chuck, will be kind enough to deliver the eulogy?

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

You have a lathe don't you! You can make a much better small handle from a small piece of wood such as a pen blank. I just grip the piece in the spigit jaws of my ancient Nova Chuck, turn it round to the desired contour then make a starter hole in the end and drill with the necessary drill in the tailstock mounted chuck. The picture is of a rehandled Fondue forkView attachment 28292 View attachment 28292 View attachment 28292

 

[John Torchick]

This handle will be for a DIY Bedan tool. Handle will be 10-11 inches long. Just need to review the replies and figure out a way to put it in the chuck. Might turn some wood and make a collet to fit the chuck. Then put it through the steady rest to keep it centered.

 

[John Rander]

Just to help you decide, below is a photo of several beading tools I just received last week and put DIY handles on (pear wood scraps). I used the method Mike, Al, and Bill explained. The fact that you drill (Jacob’s chuck) from the headstock side, means that you can easily hold the handle with your hand while drilling. I believe the straightness of the hole comes from the alignment between the small starter hole and the point centered on the handle from the tailstock side. This is more than satisfactory for our tools.