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Double-sided tape test

Joined
Dec 9, 2018
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Ottawa, Ontario
I usually randomly grab one of four rolls of double-sided tape from my drawer when mounting items to be turned, but I recently had a project that required tape mounting for a number of pieces, so I decided to test the four brands I had. (I acquired these over recent years on the recommendations of turners whose opinion I respected.)

I did the test as "scientifically" as I could, with identically-sized pieces of tape holding the same two pieces of wood together, same setting time (5 mins), the surfaces cleaned each time etc. I had put a screw eye on the top piece, held the bottom piece in a vise, and then pulled on the eye screw with a baggage scale. I tried each tape three times, and here are the averages for the weight at which the pieces of wood separated:

- No-name paper-backed tape from my woodturning supply dealer: 42 lbs (19kg)
- Intertape 591 paper-backed: 64 lbs (29 kg)
- Nitto Permacell P-02 paper-backed: 77 lbs (35 kg)
- Spectape 555H136 cloth-backed: 86 lbs (39 kg)

So, a difference factor of 2x: I suppose if I have something that really matters, or where I have a wood that might not adhere well, I will use one of the tapes that performed better. But the good news is that all of the tapes held very well; I tried them each on several of the pieces I turned and had zero failures. I am always impressed by how well double-sided tape holds.

There is room for more testing in this area. For example, the Nitto tape seems "tackier",and though it was a bit weaker than the Spectape on the clean, dry maple I was testing on, it might hold better on some (perhaps oiler or more open-celled) woods. Also, my test was a straight pull: the results might vary a bit if the separating force were coming from an angle, as it usually would be when turning.

Gord
 
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I dont use double sided tape for turning but use it quite a bit for drum sanding and splitting segmented rings on the bandsaw. I intentionally use a weaker tape, some of the stronger ones glue too well to get it apart again.
 
Joined
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Torrance, CA
For me, hold is important but ease of removal is equally important. Like Mr Bonny, I rarely use it on the lathe, never without tailstock support. To make long thin curved throats/ necks, I will DS tape my rings and turn them all round enmass. I then break them apart to bevel them in the Drumsander. Carpet tape is often problematic to remove for me.
 
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We used a 3M double sided tape in machining fragile parts where there wasn't an option to hold it in a vise or other mechanical means. 3M in their wisdom (or lack of) didn't have an item number on the inside of the rolls. The local supplier knew what we wanted, but when they shut down I was never able to find it again.

I don't know how it would work on wood, our uses were aluminum and plastics. We used it on a very smooth metal surface laying out the tape, then pressing the part onto it and letting set for a few minutes with light pressure. If you made the mistake of leaving the part taped down over night the only way to remove it was with a soaking of alcohol. Trying to pry an edge loose could bend an aluminum part.

The nice thing about the tape was it had a concise, precise thickness of .007". Knowing that thickness made it easy to gauge off the base surface.
 
Joined
Jan 20, 2011
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Traverse City, MI
I usually randomly grab one of four rolls of double-sided tape from my drawer when mounting items to be turned, but I recently had a project that required tape mounting for a number of pieces, so I decided to test the four brands I had. (I acquired these over recent years on the recommendations of turners whose opinion I respected.)

I did the test as "scientifically" as I could, with identically-sized pieces of tape holding the same two pieces of wood together, same setting time (5 mins), the surfaces cleaned each time etc. I had put a screw eye on the top piece, held the bottom piece in a vise, and then pulled on the eye screw with a baggage scale. I tried each tape three times, and here are the averages for the weight at which the pieces of wood separated:

- No-name paper-backed tape from my woodturning supply dealer: 42 lbs (19kg)
- Intertape 591 paper-backed: 64 lbs (29 kg)
- Nitto Permacell P-02 paper-backed: 77 lbs (35 kg)
- Spectape 555H136 cloth-backed: 86 lbs (39 kg)

So, a difference factor of 2x: I suppose if I have something that really matters, or where I have a wood that might not adhere well, I will use one of the tapes that performed better. But the good news is that all of the tapes held very well; I tried them each on several of the pieces I turned and had zero failures. I am always impressed by how well double-sided tape holds.

There is room for more testing in this area. For example, the Nitto tape seems "tackier",and though it was a bit weaker than the Spectape on the clean, dry maple I was testing on, it might hold better on some (perhaps oiler or more open-celled) woods. Also, my test was a straight pull: the results might vary a bit if the separating force were coming from an angle, as it usually would be when turning.

Gord

Good info. I've rarely used double-sided tape while turning, but the stuff I have is almost too sticky. (some kind of carpet tape?)

The non-college grad, non-scientist in me wonders if applying the tape, then taking a finish cut on the pair of disks between centers, would change the numbers. I'm guessing the pinch of the tailstock and a little drive "friction" might improve the numbers. (especially for the paper-backed varieties)
 
Joined
Jan 19, 2009
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Phoenix, Arizona
Been using 2 grades in past 5 years, thin liner, used in flat close cell woods light-moderate hold.
Medium thick cloth backed for more adhesion.
Have not had any failures. Also leave tape in plastic bag so the adhesive won't dry out as fast.
 

Tom Gall

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That type of tape is brilliant for mounting things to walls, but it is 2mm thick, so that it conforms to uneven surfaces. I would worry that it would be a bit "squishy" and allow the work piece to move or vibrate.
I agree with Gord. Looks similar to Alien Tape that I have. Might be OK for small-ish items.
 
Joined
Mar 25, 2008
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Location
Suwanee, GA
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www.mikepeacewoodturning.com
I believe that double sided tape has a shelf life.
Probably. But I have been using a roll of the double sided turners tape from Woodcraft for 16 years. I do not use it a lot but I have never lost any turning and if you keep it under pressure a few minutes, it will really hold. I believe it is the Spectape that Gord tested.
View: https://youtu.be/wXxC45jhDbc
 
Joined
Feb 25, 2023
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Location
Bloomington, IL
I usually randomly grab one of four rolls of double-sided tape from my drawer when mounting items to be turned, but I recently had a project that required tape mounting for a number of pieces, so I decided to test the four brands I had. (I acquired these over recent years on the recommendations of turners whose opinion I respected.)

I did the test as "scientifically" as I could, with identically-sized pieces of tape holding the same two pieces of wood together, same setting time (5 mins), the surfaces cleaned each time etc. I had put a screw eye on the top piece, held the bottom piece in a vise, and then pulled on the eye screw with a baggage scale. I tried each tape three times, and here are the averages for the weight at which the pieces of wood separated:

- No-name paper-backed tape from my woodturning supply dealer: 42 lbs (19kg)
- Intertape 591 paper-backed: 64 lbs (29 kg)
- Nitto Permacell P-02 paper-backed: 77 lbs (35 kg)
- Spectape 555H136 cloth-backed: 86 lbs (39 kg)

So, a difference factor of 2x: I suppose if I have something that really matters, or where I have a wood that might not adhere well, I will use one of the tapes that performed better. But the good news is that all of the tapes held very well; I tried them each on several of the pieces I turned and had zero failures. I am always impressed by how well double-sided tape holds.

There is room for more testing in this area. For example, the Nitto tape seems "tackier",and though it was a bit weaker than the Spectape on the clean, dry maple I was testing on, it might hold better on some (perhaps oiler or more open-celled) woods. Also, my test was a straight pull: the results might vary a bit if the separating force were coming from an angle, as it usually would be when turning.

Gord
Gord,
Of the four you tested, which do you find easiest in terms of removing the covering from the tape once applied to the first surface?
I have some doubled sided duct tape which holds great, but is a PITA in terms of removing the covering.
 

hockenbery

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Gord,
Of the four you tested, which do you find easiest in terms of removing the covering from the tape once applied to the first surface?
I have some doubled sided duct tape which holds great, but is a PITA in terms of removing the covering.
I found cutting the tape at an angle works wonders. Push the point a little and the backing separates at the point.
 
Joined
Dec 9, 2018
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Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Gord,
Of the four you tested, which do you find easiest in terms of removing the covering from the tape once applied to the first surface?
I have some doubled sided duct tape which holds great, but is a PITA in terms of removing the covering.
The Intertape brand has a textured paper backing that is a bit easier to grab. But the best way is to use the sharp tip of a utility knife to flick up a corner of the backing--then you have a flap of paper that you can grab. You might think that jabbing at the tape and lifting with a utility knife would pull the tape off, but you soon get the knack of using the right pressure to jab at the paper backing to flick it up without lifting the tape itself. It comes off like magic and you wonder why you fussed for so long with your fingernails.

An alternative technique, which you see furniture makers use, is to tear the paper off as you are sticking the tape on, all in one move. The placement is less precise and I am not in that big of a hurry.
 
Joined
Dec 9, 2018
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Location
Ottawa, Ontario
About the problem of un-bonding a double-sided tape mounting, I use isoproply or denatured alcohol on the joint and after a few seconds the tape almost always comes off easily. I dribble the alcohol on with an eyedropper, but I have seen people use a Q-tip. Also, I use a glue block / tape block that is cut with a groove and drilled from the back (see picture) so that I can pry or poke off a piece that is stuck on too firmly.
 

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