I have managed to ding up my tapered drive center which in turn has marred the taper on the drive. I will replace the drive center, but I'm concerned the marred taper of the drive will in turn mar the new drive center. I'd appreciate any help.
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Dinged up drive center
- Thread starter Hal
- Start date
Hal,
The real "fix" is to buy or borrow a morse taper hand reamer, and very carefully and gently deburr the galls off of the taper. ENCO.com sells them for about $28. If, however, you have a "nice" machineshop guy close by who will loan you one or a local turning club that has one to loan to members, you can do it for nuthin'. I know others who use a bit of sandpaper, files, etc., but a taper is a precision machined surface that depends on that accuracy for its usefulness and accuracy. Do it the right way!!
M
The real "fix" is to buy or borrow a morse taper hand reamer, and very carefully and gently deburr the galls off of the taper. ENCO.com sells them for about $28. If, however, you have a "nice" machineshop guy close by who will loan you one or a local turning club that has one to loan to members, you can do it for nuthin'. I know others who use a bit of sandpaper, files, etc., but a taper is a precision machined surface that depends on that accuracy for its usefulness and accuracy. Do it the right way!!
M
Last edited:
Hey Hal,
The other option is to simply leave you chuck on at all times and use it to hold the drive spur. If you insert the spur taper through the hole in the chuck, leaving the spur and blades above the top of the jaws and using the base of the jaws as the gripping part, it works pretty well. I've found that the metal of the jaws is sufficiently soft to both grip solidly and to not scratch the taper. I've never had a slip or wander either.
Don't (and I mean don't) take the jaws off first. The scroll bases are hardened and things will get messy.
Dietrich
The other option is to simply leave you chuck on at all times and use it to hold the drive spur. If you insert the spur taper through the hole in the chuck, leaving the spur and blades above the top of the jaws and using the base of the jaws as the gripping part, it works pretty well. I've found that the metal of the jaws is sufficiently soft to both grip solidly and to not scratch the taper. I've never had a slip or wander either.
Don't (and I mean don't) take the jaws off first. The scroll bases are hardened and things will get messy.
Dietrich
I want to buy a 2mt Morse Taper finish reamer (not roughing) of good quality. Not looking for a Cadilac but not cheaply made ones either. Any suggestion on make, model and where to order? It is for a woodturning lathe of course.
Jon
Jon
McMaster.com is a good place to start.
Try https://www.mcmaster.com/morse-taper-socket-reamers
Welcome to the forum...
cc
Of course, Amazon has a bunch for a lot less but you get what you pay for etc etc...
Try https://www.mcmaster.com/morse-taper-socket-reamers
Welcome to the forum...
cc
Of course, Amazon has a bunch for a lot less but you get what you pay for etc etc...
Oops, forgot about Whole sale tools...
Morse taper reamer
https://www.wttool.com/index/page/p...roduct_name/RDX+Finishing+Morse+Taper+Reamers
Morse taper reamer
https://www.wttool.com/index/page/p...roduct_name/RDX+Finishing+Morse+Taper+Reamers
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McMaster-Carr is also my suggestion. MT hand reamers come in two types: coarse and fine. It's been a long time since I bought one, but I believe that they generally run about $50. Never use a drill to run a hand reamer. Use a light oil such as 3-in-1 on the reamer and turn about two or three turns with light pressure. Extract and wipe off the metal particles. Also wipe out the MT socket. Re-oil the reamer and repeat using slightly more pressure. After doing this a few times, the reamer should come out clean. It would be a good idea to finish the job using a Spin-L-Mate tool or equivalent to polish the socket.