I want more of a shine and permanent finish on a large bowl I made that I had first coated with linseed oil and them bees wax. How can I dulute and remove the wax so I can poly the surface? Thanks Gary
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diluting a bees wax finish
- Thread starter Gary Chapman
- Start date
Hi Gary:
You might try multiple washes and clean cloth wipings using mineral spirits at first to see if the wax can be removed easily. If you need to be more aggressive, you could move to lacquer thinner, xylene, or acetone (use appropriate personal protection - goggles, gloves, well ventilated place, etc.) until the surface is devoid of wax. You may need to steel-wool and/or sand the piece again to be sure you have a good surface for the poly to adhere to. I would be sure to use a "solvent" based poly, and would avoid water-based poly products, given the linseed-oil pre-treatment the piece has already.
Rob Wallace
You might try multiple washes and clean cloth wipings using mineral spirits at first to see if the wax can be removed easily. If you need to be more aggressive, you could move to lacquer thinner, xylene, or acetone (use appropriate personal protection - goggles, gloves, well ventilated place, etc.) until the surface is devoid of wax. You may need to steel-wool and/or sand the piece again to be sure you have a good surface for the poly to adhere to. I would be sure to use a "solvent" based poly, and would avoid water-based poly products, given the linseed-oil pre-treatment the piece has already.
Rob Wallace
Good advice from Rob. As an aside, I have "thinned" beeswax to make a paste by using turps.
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Maybe not so good. Since it is dilution and wash you desire, there is no need for exotic solvents. It's volume that will count. Xylene and the ketones are NASTY stuff. You want to dilute the wax as economically and as safely as possible. Standard mineral spirits or more expensive turps will do just fine on wax. Lots easier on you, too. Lay the wet rag on the surface to soften for a bit, rub, then rinse. Twice. Ought to be enough, as a drop or two of nonbeading water will tell you.
wax
Well, I tried everything from turpentine, mineral spirits, every exotic solvent there is and nothing, and I mean nothing would cut it. I used steel wool soaked in solvent but I reverted back to the tried and true elboe grease and lots of sandpaper. I thought I would never cut through all the wax and the bowl would have to have two beads at the top so sanding around them was a real treat.
It is done and I am still glad I did it for a poly satin finish sure looks nice on that red cherry.
Thanks again for all your suggestions. Gary
Well, I tried everything from turpentine, mineral spirits, every exotic solvent there is and nothing, and I mean nothing would cut it. I used steel wool soaked in solvent but I reverted back to the tried and true elboe grease and lots of sandpaper. I thought I would never cut through all the wax and the bowl would have to have two beads at the top so sanding around them was a real treat.
It is done and I am still glad I did it for a poly satin finish sure looks nice on that red cherry.
Thanks again for all your suggestions. Gary
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Sounds like you were taking off the cured oil, not the wax. Wax never cures, so it's dissolved and gone with simple solvent washes. Fresh wax moves old wax around. Cured oil has to be removed the hard way. It's also something you didn't need to do if you were using regular solvent poly.
Since I don't remove the dovetail hold on most common pieces, it's a cinch to re-sand by putting it back on the lathe. Don't envy you.
If you think satin looks good, try clear.
Since I don't remove the dovetail hold on most common pieces, it's a cinch to re-sand by putting it back on the lathe. Don't envy you.
If you think satin looks good, try clear.