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D-way beading tools

Joined
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Sam, be sure to watch any available video on the use of these tools. How to orient them to the wood, how you 'rock' them to make the bead, and when to stop are all critical to success. Honing to 'resharpen', too.
 
Joined
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Sam, be sure to watch any available video on the use of these tools. How to orient them to the wood, how you 'rock' them to make the bead, and when to stop are all critical to success. Honing to 'resharpen', too.
I watched the video on the d-way site so far and went back and re-watched it. I was doing the left right incorrect at first but after re-watching I see it is more a matter of twisting the tool than moving the back end in a left right arc.

Also might have to get a pair of magnifying lenses or something. The eyes aren't what they used to be and it's hard to tell when the bead is round on the top all the way!

Ordered a 600 grit diamond card but will they need a lot of sharpening no more use than they get?
 
Joined
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Bozeman, MT
I watched the video on the d-way site so far and went back and re-watched it. I was doing the left right incorrect at first but after re-watching I see it is more a matter of twisting the tool than moving the back end in a left right arc.

Also might have to get a pair of magnifying lenses or something. The eyes aren't what they used to be and it's hard to tell when the bead is round on the top all the way!

Ordered a 600 grit diamond card but will they need a lot of sharpening no more use than they get?
They need to be touched up occasionally. Probably depends on the wood they're used on and size of the piece, in addition to frequency of use. You could probably hone them 3-4 strokes before every session and not 'use them up' in 10 years.

Good vision is essential for getting the tool lined up for beads in a row. I can get by with lots of light and 3.00 reading glasses, but I like MagEyes if it's a really important piece (like the wedding bowl sets I'm making for my granddaughters)
 
Joined
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www.blacklabelwoodworks.com
Also might have to get a pair of magnifying lenses or something. The eyes aren't what they used to be and it's hard to tell when the bead is round on the top all the way!
You don't want to make the bead completely round you want to stop just shy of it. There is a chance the top of the bead can tear off at least on the narrow beads.
 

Bill Boehme

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Too late, I ordered the handles the same time I ordered the beading tools. Oh well, I can always remove them if I don't like them.

That's probably what will happen. I've never used handles on mine and they would actually be more of an encumbrance than not using them. I would also strongly recommend getting a toolrest that allows you to drop the handle really low (like 45° to 60°). The Steve Sinner toolrest is especially good for that. I believe that Robust also makes a toolrest now that enables you to drop the handle really low and get it really close to the work
 
Joined
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That's probably what will happen. I've never used handles on mine and they would actually be more of an encumbrance than not using them. I would also strongly recommend getting a toolrest that allows you to drop the handle really low (like 45° to 60°). The Steve Sinner toolrest is especially good for that. I believe that Robust also makes a toolrest now that enables you to drop the handle really low and get it really close to the work
While I've only tried out the tools once with handles, I did like the handles. Easier for me to hold than the little shafts. The handles are only seven inches long and just measured my hand at 4 1/8" across so not a whole lot sticks out either end of my grip. I will take a look at tool rests though because I have been getting by with just a regular robust comfort rest and wanted to try out an "s" curve for bowls so maybe they have one that combines for both?
 
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