Have you guys seen a suitable solution for a jig (or maybe some other solution) that lets you cut round logs on a bandsaw? I've got a setup that lets me make board stock...I'm talking about cookie-fashion cuts on sizable logs (14-15 " or so). I've looked high and low and not found anything yet that fits the bill.
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Cutting Round on a Bandsaw
- Thread starter Donovan Bailey
- Start date
That is the kind of cut when I use a chainsaw.
The closest thing I've found to allow for cutting across a log section is to have a jig with a "V" cut into it. For a log the size you mention, it will need to be fairly wide and deep V. A log will roll, and be pulled into the blade, along with your hands and fingers if you do not find a way to control the downward rotation of the log as it enters into the blade. Early on, I ruined a couple of band blades, and got dangerously close to a serious injury by just trying to hold with my hands.....thankfully, I was not hurt, and learned my lesson!
Is the resaw height of your saw capable of cutting a 15" log? If you have a large bandsaw, it likely will, but at any rate, you need the right blade...preferably 3 tpi, and have the saw tension adjusted to where the blade runs true without much flex. I use both the Woodturners Blade from Highland Woodworking, and Lennox Diemaster 2 blades. The Carter "Green Wood Blade" is 3 tpi, and has the same metal as the Diemaster 2. Expensive though.
I would suggest you find a way to clamp the log to your V jig, so you do not have to rely only on your hand strength. Perhaps a screw or two near the ends where your blade will miss them, or maybe a band clamp of sorts to keep it from rolling.
one can take a 12/4 thick piece of wood, and put their tablesaw blade to 45 degrees and cut each side of the "V" swapping ends for the opposite side from the first cut. A wide V with a depth of 2" and a means of clamping should get you where you want to go with this.
I agree with Richard, that a chainsaw will do it easier and faster.......and probably safer too!
Is the resaw height of your saw capable of cutting a 15" log? If you have a large bandsaw, it likely will, but at any rate, you need the right blade...preferably 3 tpi, and have the saw tension adjusted to where the blade runs true without much flex. I use both the Woodturners Blade from Highland Woodworking, and Lennox Diemaster 2 blades. The Carter "Green Wood Blade" is 3 tpi, and has the same metal as the Diemaster 2. Expensive though.
I would suggest you find a way to clamp the log to your V jig, so you do not have to rely only on your hand strength. Perhaps a screw or two near the ends where your blade will miss them, or maybe a band clamp of sorts to keep it from rolling.
one can take a 12/4 thick piece of wood, and put their tablesaw blade to 45 degrees and cut each side of the "V" swapping ends for the opposite side from the first cut. A wide V with a depth of 2" and a means of clamping should get you where you want to go with this.
I agree with Richard, that a chainsaw will do it easier and faster.......and probably safer too!
Chainsaw does a pretty good job and you can always run the cookie through a planner if you need it perfectly flat. If you want to utilize the bandsaw a ratchet strap may be a way of securing the piece so it does not roll on you. Attach the ratchet strap/straps to your sled or miter gauge and the strap/straps can be adjusted for any size log.
Carter makes a version that looks like it would be effective. Not sure exactly how large a log it will handle out of the box but looks like you could make your own platform and use their "jaws." Lifting that large of diameter log to the table height of a bandsaw makes me tired just thinking about it.
Not sure whether it is applicable to your situation, but when other work-arounds fail I sometimes screw a strip of wood to one end of the log so that one edge rests flat on the table. This acts as a torque arrestor.
I have a jig I built. The bottom piece has a runner to goin the mitre slot. There is a backstop piece perpendicular to the blade. To hold the log against the backstop I use a piece of a old cargo strap which is fitted under the backstop.Works well and have had no problem since I built it .
Thanks. I took a look at that jig...but it only handles stock up to 9".
Thanks Gerald. Fine idea. In fact, your solution has given me a idea that I am going to try out.
Please post some pics of your ideas - helps us newbs better than words.
I use a bar clamp on a round piece parallel to the blade. Rest the extension of the bar on the saw table behind the blade to take the pressure of binding in the kerf.
Would you be able to show a picture of your jig. I'm having a hard time mind picturing this one. Thanks, Andy
Thought I had pics but had to go ti shop and make these. For much smaller stock the strap will have to be hookes into the eye bolt to allow the tightening. I used a traction starp instead of a ratcheting one but if you cannot also hold the log a ratchet strap would be better.
I think that your bar clamp suggestion is great. Thanks for the suggestion and I can't believe that I didn't think of something like that.