Cutting blanks from logs/wood prep.

[Colin Nelson]

I didn't see this topic in the forums, and thought this would be the best spot for it.

I find myself with a lot of large/med green logs, 18-30" long, 8-20" diameter, and I struggle to cut blanks out of them safely. Ideally, I try to cut them to leave the pith/heart out, but really have been struggling to do so in a stable and safe manner. I find myself with one hand chainsawing and one hand and foot holding a log in some insanely stupid manner, that by some miracle hasn't cost me anything more than scrapes so far.

Please, share your wisdom...how can I do this in a better way?

I don't have a permanent work space, no place to season/dry wood for long term, so I work almost exclusively with garbage, termite/beetle eaten, green, or firewood. I envy the nice wood that some people get to turn, one day...

 

[Mike Johnson]

Colin,

When I started harvesting wood logs I would locate a good sized "stump" that was flat on both ends
and cut a sawbuck notch on the top side so a round log would cradle in the V-notch. You want the
sawbuck tall enough to get your logs off the ground so you are not bent over running the chain saw.
The V-notch does not need to be very wide or deep, just large enough to keep the log from rolling off
the top of your stump. A decent bandsaw helps in processing your 1/2 logs and 1/4 logs into bowl
blanks and spindle blanks. If you don't have a bandsaw and are using your chain saw to cut the corners
off your bowl blanks it does help to have a 3rd hand to steady the log while cutting. I have used your
foot on log method to cut the corners off of the 1/2 logs to round them into bowl blanks. You could rig a
clamp on your sawbuck that would hold the log down and keep it from moving while cutting it with your
chain saw. Or strap a piece of steel over your shoe to keep from cutting it off.

 

[Dean Center]

Personally, I do as Mike describes. A big fat heavy poplar stump with a V notch in the top works surprisingly well for me.
There are more elegant solutions and there have been a couple of threads on the forum about them. One very appealing sawbuck came from the Minnesota Woodturners (mnwoodturners.com) and can be found in this thread: http://www.aawforum.org/community/index.php?threads/bowl-blank-log-holder.11951/#post-112146.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

You can make a sawbuck Like this http://chestofbooks.com/home-improvement/workshop/Handy-Man/images/The-handy-man-s-saw-buck.jpg or Google sawbuck for many more images.
I usually place two logs together and then place the third in the crevice so I can cut the pith out.

 

[Curt Fuller]

Like Gerald I use two large old pine logs with the log I'm cutting cradled between them. I have a stake driven at the sides of the two pine logs that keeps them from rolling apart. I like to cut the outside edges of a log first, making a flat surface on each side. Then I make two cuts to cut the pith out. Around here I never get logs big enough to get more than one blank from each side. Keep the piece that has the pith, it makes great spindle wood. Also, don't make your cuts all the way through the log. Leave an inch or so so that the log stays together. It's much easier to handle that way rather than trying to keep a half log upright. Then after you've made all your cuts, just turn it over and cut that last inch in all the cuts. And if you're cutting on the ground that really helps to keep your chain sharp because you don't slip and dig into the dirt.

 

[hockenbery]

Ditto on the notched log section
In field I use two log sections close together to make a cradle like above.
The notch is a tiny bit more stable for round logs and way more stable for crotches

Here are some photos of cutting a crotch
notched oak round.


Crotch lining up the pith vertically


Making the cut

 

[Colin Nelson]

This is great, thanks! I learned a new term too.

 

[Clifton C]

I'm with Gerald and Curtis, I've used a notched log but didn't feel it was as stable as when using two logs side by side. Six to eight inch branch wood is usable altho it will put you a little closer to the ground. I watched a chainsaw artist at one of our festivals place a 12x12 piece of acrylic mirror behind a piece he was cutting so he could see front and back to make sure he stayed on his line. Yes, I went out the next day and bought a plastic mirror. We had a good talk, but now I'm wanting to "port" my chainsaw...
c

 

[Mike Johnson]

After using a gas chainsaw for several years for processing logs into bowl blanks and billets,
my shoulders got tired of pulling a rope to start the chainsaw all day long. I started using an
electric chainsaw in my wood processing area which cut down on the noise level, gas fumes
and eliminated the pulling the rope to start the chain saw all day long. Starting a chainsaw with
one index finger is so nice!

 

[John King]

Colin - Checkout Minnesota Woodturners Association Log Processing Center plans attached. I built one. Works great. - John

PS - Photos of Log Processing Center in action attached. - J

 

[Colin Nelson]

Colin - Checkout Minnesota Woodturners Association Log Processing Center plans attached. I built one. Works great. - John

PS - Photos of Log Processing Center in action attached. - J

I think I'm going to make this, looks good!

 

[Mike Johnson]

With a chainsaw and large wood stump you can make a similar sawbuck in about two minutes.
You can also drill a hole vertically into one side of the stump and insert a steel holdfast clamp that will
quickly clamp the 1/2 log down to the sawbuck so you can cut the corners.
A Fry-Daddy oil cooker works really well to melt canning wax, this can be used to seal the end grain
on your wood blanks so they do not check and crack. You can dip the blanks or use a chip brush to
paint the hot liquid wax onto the end grain of your wood blanks.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Since this thread seems to primarily be about how to make a sawbuck rather than a discussion of safety I have moved it to the Woodturning Discussion Forum.

 

[Fadi Zeidan]

This might help and quick to make

http://www.instructables.com/id/Robust-Chainsaw-Stand/

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

Take a look at mine, since I'm also a hack welder, I did it myself with things I had laying around... More info at: http://mauiturners.com/tips/

 

[Breck Whitworth]

Regardless of how you deal with a round be sure to split the round length wise and never try to take a round and set it up on one end and try to split it that way. All you get is fine saw dust and a much longer time cutting. When to are cutting a round in half lengthwise the main thing to remember is keep your chainsaw pointing up or down if you try to cut with the blade level with the round all you will do is clog up your chainsaw. keep the blade moving up and down some and you will not clog up so much. Here is a cutting stand I made from treated 4x4's and used it for years it really works well, and easy to build.View attachment 24060 View attachment 24060

 

[John Torchick]

Timely thread as I have some logs that need trimming for turning. I'll be going to Lowe's i n a couple of days. I think I'll get treated deck lumber as I'll have to leave it outside.
May be a bit off topic but Buckmasters Whitetail Magazine, Winter 2017/2018, had an article on an electric chainsaw. This was not an endorsement of one particular electric chainsaw but an evaluation of what you can expect. The author, Steve Bartylla, tested a Husqvarna 120i Li-ion chainsaw. It is interesting that Husqvarna also offers a professional model. BTW, voltage was not mentioned but the saw got a real workout and had good reviews.

 

[RichColvin]

John,

What did they conclude on gas vs. battery ?

Rich

 

[Mike Johnson]

I use a 120V electric chainsaw when I process logs just outside my shop where I have access
to an electrical outlet. A battery operated tool is in the long term a disposable tool where the
charger and battery will fail over time and no longer be available as a spare part. If you plan on
using a cordless tool for any length of time you will want 2 or 3 batteries and will need to keep them
charged up when you want to cut wood. If you plan on putting a lot of hours on the cordless tool they
are a good investment and will save you time. If you have a bad rotator cuff a cordless chainsaw would
be perfect solution for someone wanting to cut logs and bring them home without yanking on a pull start.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Having had two rotator cuff surgeries, I feel qualified to address the chainsaw weight issue. I use an electric Stihl chainsaw and feel like it is the easiest one to handle as far as weight is concerned. I have a gas Stihl saw that is at least twice as heavy so I don't use it as much now. I looked at some of the battery powered ones, but the batteries are pretty heavy so other than less noise, I don't see an advantage over a small gas power saw.

The electric and battery powered saws lack the power of the gas powered saws.

 

[John Torchick]

John,

What did they conclude on gas vs. battery ?

Rich

Basically the electric Husqvarna ran a long time on one charge. The fellow did say that it was hard to break old habits and took his gas saw with him. The best part was you didn't have to pull a rope, carry a gas can or mix gas, plus the noise factor. It seems that for cutting wood that a gas saw would do, the electric would be adequate. Keep in mind this would be for light work for clearing pathways, tree limbs, etc. for deer hunting situations. Probably the same for a gas saw. For what I would use it for around the lot, it would be good. But...........I have a chainsaw that was free. All it needed was a new fuel line and priming line.

 

[Richard Coers]

Most of the time I start with splitting wedges. Doesn't work well on crotch pieces, but perfect for round log sections.

 

[Mike Brazeau]

There is a basic guide on the Wood Magazine site that probably originated in the days when Phil Brennion, who was an AAW President years ago, was their woodturning editor. ( to best of my aging memory). It shows a very simple holder that does not take up a lot of storage space. You do have to get down to ground level though. I don't have trouble getting down, however the getting up can be an issue. https://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/lumber/from-trees-to-turning-blanks

 

[Owen Lowe]

The best part was you didn't have to pull a rope, carry a gas can or mix gas, plus the noise factor.

And not stinking like 2-stroke oily exhaust after use!
An added plus: you can use it inside your garage or home shop at 2 a.m. without surprise visits from the authorities and/or ambulance guys carting you off from CO poisoning!

 

[John Torchick]

Let me mention that I have a gas saw and a HF electric saw. Got the HF first and then a friend gave me the gas saw if I could get it running.

 

[John Torchick]

Saw an ad for Husqvarna in the magazine I mentioned- it's 40 volts. The battery also fits other power tools as well.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Some of those gas powered chainsaws can throw you a fit when you run into a problem.
Some machines like to vapor-lock when they get hot.
Old fuel can gum up the fuel filter and cause you fits.
A plugged orifice in the carburetor can cause you fits.
A bad gasket on the carburetor can cause you fits.
A bad diaphragm in the carburetor can cause you fits.
A fouled spark plug can cause you fits.
A crack in the fuel supply line in the tank can cause you fits.
The throttle and choke controls if not adjusted properly can cause you fits.
You either learn your machine inside and out or you drop it off for your yearly maintenance.

 

[john lucas]

My Husquvarna saw is considerably lighter than the Stihl. I used both the other day when at a friends house. His did cut faster. I thin it runs at a higher rpm. Mine however does the job quite nicely is lighter and was almost half the cost. When I had to get a new saw I looked really hard at the Stihl because i always wanted one. However my older Husky which I still use is 26 years old and with that in mind I just couldn't talk myself into spending the extra money.

 

[John Torchick]

John, was his blade sharp? I used a McCulloch to cut up a walnut tree. Wish I had the wood now! Anyway, I was not aware that chains took different files. Bought a file and took forever to cut through a small log. Now I'm older and smarter. Well, anyway older.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

Some of those gas powered chainsaws can throw you a fit when you run into a problem.
Some machines like to vapor-lock when they get hot.
Old fuel can gum up the fuel filter and cause you fits.
A plugged orifice in the carburetor can cause you fits.
A bad gasket on the carburetor can cause you fits.
A bad diaphragm in the carburetor can cause you fits.
A fouled spark plug can cause you fits.
A crack in the fuel supply line in the tank can cause you fits.
The throttle and choke controls if not adjusted properly can cause you fits.
You either learn your machine inside and out or you drop it off for your yearly maintenance.

Try a Sthil Mike

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

My Husquvarna saw is considerably lighter than the Stihl. I used both the other day when at a friends house. His did cut faster. I thin it runs at a higher rpm. Mine however does the job quite nicely is lighter and was almost half the cost. When I had to get a new saw I looked really hard at the Stihl because i always wanted one. However my older Husky which I still use is 26 years old and with that in mind I just couldn't talk myself into spending the extra money.

John my stihl 028 lasted 36 years and burned up last year. I do not think the new one will last that long or at least i won't. The new one is lighter and requires two pulls to start.

 

[Dean Center]

John my stihl 028 lasted 36 years and burned up last year. I do not think the new one will last that long or at least i won't. The new one is lighter and requires two pulls to start.

Gerald,
My condolences on the loss of your beloved 028.

 

[Fadi Zeidan]

I’m considering an electric chainsaw. My gas chainsaw is extremely noisy for the neighbors.

 

[hockenbery]

About 2 years ago I got a stihl 261 with an 18”bar to go with my 24” bar stihl 440 magnum.
Saws with smaller bars generally rev higher than those with longer bars.
In any event the smaller saw cuts faster and is a lot lighter.

Also have an ancient poulan 16” electric.

Electric is a plus if you want to Cut blanks when a gas saw would be unneighborly.
INDOORS??? remember the electric will shoot bar oil many feet off the end of the bar.
I never point the running saw toward any place I don’t want oil spray.

 

[Dean Center]

INDOORS??? remember the electric will shoot bar oil many feet off the end of the bar.
I never point the running saw toward any place I don’t want oil spray.

You mean ALL of the oil isn't on my pants?

(Safety disclaimer: I always wear my chaps. And hearing protection, and glasses, and face shield, and helmet. So the oil is on my chaps.)

 

[Dean Center]

In the past, I used an electric chainsaw and was impressed with its effectiveness. One thing I learned when shopping for the saw is that some of the electrics have a plastic cog driving the chain and a few have a metal cog. Without taking the cover off, you really can't tell. It seems to me that this cog is likely to be under a lot of stress during operation and therefore likely to wear out if plastic instead of metal. Just something to think about if you decide you want an electric.

Another area of difference in electric saws is the presence or absence of overload protection. This proved the undoing of my saw. If the chain is dull, the wood hard, or the bar binds, you can overload the motor and quickly kill the saw. Another thing to think about while shopping.

 

[John Torchick]

Trained termites or a beaver will get the job done, too.

 

[John Turpin]

A holiday visit to family in West Texas netted me some pecan. About a thousand pounds of pecan. It was all my small pickup could do to get it back up to Oklahoma. My trusty old Husqvarna turned it into about ten good 18" blanks. #2 son helped me get the (extremely heavy green) slabs out of the truck, helped saw it up and then get wax on the end grain. A pretty nice haul I think.

 

[John Torchick]

John, I have a supply of rough cut pecan. I have cut pen blanks from some of the thicker boards. They look nice in their natural color. I did try to color one with a Sharpie and then wipe with a coffee filter and DNA. Came out a grey/black color. Actually looked decent- something different.

 

[John Turpin]

I local sawyer called last week and offered me a good deal on a 6" slab of Cottonwood. This species has a pretty bad reputation with turners, but I went ahead and asked for it. It's supposed to start warming up on Wednesday, so I'll head up there and pick it up. I'm curious to see what it's like. I'll be on the lookout for issues like ring shake.