Crush Grind Pepper Mills

[RonW]

The instructions that come with the crush grind pepper mills are pitiful. Very difficult to understand. I have searched the net and come up empty when looking for the idiot proof instructions I need for success. Lots of instructions out there, but none are good for this kind of mill. So before I screw up a nice piece of wood or two, I would like to ask for any advice or suggestions. Thanks,

Ron Wilson

 

[Gary]

bad peper mill instructions

What I would do is practice with pieces of wood cut off of an old 2x4 or 4x4; then when I see how its done use the "good" wood

 

[Ed Koenig]

Instructions

Maybe these instructions will help. Crush Grinder Instructions

Good Luck,
Ed

 

[jpence]

Crush grind

Here it is 2011 and the instructions are still a problem. Instructions from all of the companies are terrible at best. I have tried to contact Crush Grind in Denmark and they don't want to talk to us. They sent me to the All thing Pepper website (their U.S. distributor) and I have been frustrated ever since. The shaft models of their product is very weak. The knob part of the mechanism will let the 5 sided shaft spin inside of it and then it won't hold the knob on with a load in the mill. The ring in the top digs into the plastic, indenting it and a loose fit and problems there after. There is no fix I know of rather than buying a new part. Craft Supplies has been great at warranting the grinder parts, but don't hold your breath with the Crush Grind people. I wonder how they are going to honor the 25 year warranty? The bottom grinder part is rock solid strong. Redmond sea salt is the hardest salt I have ground and it has trashed the upper part of 3 mills. I have never had a problem with pepper.

 

[Claudia Hayward]

crush grind tips

After several mills I've learned a couple of tips. Drill the main shaft to 1"only then enlarge the opening slightly just to fit the plastic insert. The 1 1/16" they suggest gives too much slop. I found it an interesting exercise to drill out a scrap piece of wood according to the directions then cut it in half lengthwise. That way you can see what is happening when you insert the mill. I've made a tool to cut a groove for the tabs to sit in. I've also had problems with the plastic tops coming loose and the aluminum shaft snapping when the customer used hard sea salt. You might also check out www.crushgrind.ca He's got some good directions on his website.

 

[Betty Scarpino]

Ron,

The Winter 2009 issue of AW has an article titled, "All-in-One Crush-Grind Peppermill/Saltshaker." You might check out that article for tips on working with the crush-grind mechanism. You can access that issue online in the Members' Only area, or if you are not an AAW member and would like to take a look at the article, send me an email. editorscarpino@gmail.com

Betty Scarpino, editor, AW

 

[Rob Wallace]

Check-out the latest Woodturning Design.....

Although I just skimmed the article and haven't fully read it, the latest Woodturning Design magazine has a write-up by Chris West on crush grind pepper mills which might (.....actually SHOULD) be instructive.

Have a look at the current issue's content HERE.

As with most pepper mill operations, using a Forstner bit to accurately drill the required holes is about the hardest part of making the mill. The better quality bits you have, the easier the job is.

Good luck...

Rob

 

[Mark Warden]

Here is another link you can try I bought a few of these but did not get to make any yet. The one thing the guy I got them from stressed is you have to use metric bits or it just won't turn out as good as it can. http://www.crushgrind.com.au/instructions.php

Good luck

 

[Dean Center]

As with most pepper mill operations, using a Forstner bit to accurately drill the required holes is about the hardest part of making the mill. The better quality bits you have, the easier the job is.
Rob

I don't mean to hijack the thread, but what makes one Forstner bit better than another, or in other words, how do you recognize a better quality bit?

 

[John King]

After several mills I've learned a couple of tips. Drill the main shaft to 1"only then enlarge the opening slightly just to fit the plastic insert. The 1 1/16" they suggest gives too much slop. I found it an interesting exercise to drill out a scrap piece of wood according to the directions then cut it in half lengthwise. That way you can see what is happening when you insert the mill. I've made a tool to cut a groove for the tabs to sit in. I've also had problems with the plastic tops coming loose and the aluminum shaft snapping when the customer used hard sea salt. You might also check out www.crushgrind.ca He's got some good directions on his website.

Use a 26mm Forstner bit to drill a 1/4" recess in the top of the peppermill body. The plastic stopper/drive in the mill top will fit snugly in the 26mm hole. The depth is not critical as long as the plastic stopper/drive fits in the mill body. Drill the balance of the peppercorn chamber to 1". 26mm Forstner bits are available at http://www.woodcraft.com/Search2/Search.aspx?query=26mm forstner bit.

 

[David Wilkins]

I don't mean to hijack the thread, but what makes one Forstner bit better than another, or in other words, how do you recognize a better quality bit?

It's the way they cut, some scrape and grind through the wood, some slice and clear cleanly.

The crush grind mills I did, and I wont make them any more, were trial and error. You are probably better off taking the measurements and trial and error. The imperial measurements offered introduce slop. The metric bits are hard to come by, even with every woodturning outlet offering up the mechanisms. it's what holds this product back.

 

[Rob Wallace]

Bit designs differ - some are more efficient than others

I don't mean to hijack the thread, but what makes one Forstner bit better than another, or in other words, how do you recognize a better quality bit?

Dean - There are a number of different styles of Forstner bits, some with serrated rims having multiple teeth there; others have smooth side rims (no 'teeth') and have essentially only two cutting surfaces. The design of the bit regarding how chips are removed also determines the efficiency of how well the bits work - less expensive bits tend to scrape the waste away instead of shearing it into smaller pieces. Some bits also have a scoring tooth at the rim what provides a cleaner entry/cut into the wood, establishing an accurate surface on which the rim can ride to improve cutting accuracy. Many users don't like the bit heating and burning due to excessive friction created with less-expensive bits. The shape and design of the tip, "sharpenability", and smoothness of the finish of the rim and cutting surfaces/teeth all contribute to differences in bit quality.

I have about 4 or 5 sets of Forstner bits, including those made by Freud, Amana, and Maxi Cut, along with two different Chinese-made sets. Having used them all, in my opinion the absolute best bits (particularly for pepper mills) are the Maxi-Cut bits made in Germany. They cut effortlessly, making very clean accurate holes without excessive friction or burning, particularly with the long, deep cuts needed for making pepper mills. If you will be making a number of pepper and/or salt mills, the investment in high quality Forstner bits will be well worth it. Their system of Morse taper adapters, extensions, and bits sold as the RotaStop system functions extremely well. Have a look HERE to see more details about this system.

Good luck with your mills and happy Holidays!

Rob

 

[John King]

Some of you guys are making this way too difficult. Follow the Craft Supplies USA instructions at http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/woodturners/Images/pdfs/crush_grinder.pdf with the following changes: 1) drill a 26mm hole in the top of the mill body to a depth of ¼” and 2) drill a 1” peppercorn chamber in the mill body – not 1 1/16”. The stopper in the mill head will fit snugly in the 26mm hole and center the mill head on the mill body. The diameter of the peppercorn chamber in the mill body is really not important. It can be any diameter as long as it is less than 26mm.

With the two changes above, I have found all other information on the Craft Supplies USA instructions to be all I need to make CrushGrind peppermills. – John

 

[Larry Lukens]

crush grinder instructions

I also pulled the instructions from the Australian web site. I am now in the process of finding metric Forstner bits. The Penn State Industries instructions require some trimming of the mechanism to permit using fractional inch bits. I'd rather use the drills the mechanism is designed for. I plan to make these for Christmas gifts. Good thing I'm starting early!

Anyone have ideas for great wood for these? I've considered walnut, but I'm open to exotics that look great as pepper mills.

 

[Larry Watson]

Why Forstner?

Drilling end grain with any forstner never seems to be easy going. Except when specific size holes such as 1 1/16 or 1 5/8 are required I have found that a 1" spade bit works just fine for the main deep cavity. After more than 100 pepper mills I'm still using my second one.