I recently purchased a Crown 1/2" detail gouge, and because of the grind, thought I could use it like a bowl gouge. I tried to use it to hollow a hard maple bowl, and imediately got a nasty tear-out! I searched for information about it through Google, but mainly got sales ads. Can anyone tell me what this gouge is designed for, and how best to use and sharpen it.
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Crown 1/2" detail gouge
- Thread starter John Hartmus II
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That would be the same thing as a spindle gouge, essentially. There are many shapes that you could put on the detail gouge. I prefer a very long fingernail with a shallow angle. Do not use this on a bowl unless you are a very skilled turner.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
You obviously came off the bevel. If you grind it with a 45 degree grind you can use it for bowls but in reality a bowl gouge is better.
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Like Bill said it is similar to s spindle gouge.
A spindle gouge has a shallow flute ground close to the center of the bar.
The detail gouge has a shallow flute ground in the top of the bar so there is more steel under the flute.
On bowls, I use the spindle gouge to cut the chuck tenon, turn beads on the outside, and turnout the bottom when reverse chucking the bowl.
A detail gouge can do these same tasks. Everything else I do with a bowl gouge.
If I'm getting tearout on the outside of a bowl with my finish cuts with a bowl gouge I sometimes take light finish cut with a spindle gouge.
Happy turning,
Al
A spindle gouge has a shallow flute ground close to the center of the bar.
The detail gouge has a shallow flute ground in the top of the bar so there is more steel under the flute.
On bowls, I use the spindle gouge to cut the chuck tenon, turn beads on the outside, and turnout the bottom when reverse chucking the bowl.
A detail gouge can do these same tasks. Everything else I do with a bowl gouge.
If I'm getting tearout on the outside of a bowl with my finish cuts with a bowl gouge I sometimes take light finish cut with a spindle gouge.
Happy turning,
Al
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In spite of the responses received, a gouge is still a gouge. If you present it properly for the grind employed it will slice wood. You don't want to gouge the wood, as you've discovered. So you employ the tactic of the woodcarver and slide sideways as you advance the cut, to avoid compression and tearout when working across the grain. Since the lathe is doing the sideways motion for you, you can merely maintain the proper position, once obtained, and get the same effect.
Problem with cylindrical gouges is inconsistent thickness with the same angle grind. This is worse with the "detail" gouges, because there is more metal under the bottom of the flute than even the "spindle" gouges. You either have to compensate with a high presentation (pitch) angle - bordering on a scrape, or decrease the sharpness angle at the grinder to get lower. Cut with the flute facing out from the turning, don't gouge with it facing into the rotation, and you cannot catch. Your sweet spot will be small, but as you develop skill you will be able to nose up a bit more and still maintain a safe cut. Crawl before walking.
For an explanation of the cutting terms above, see http://homepages.sover.net/~nichael/nlc-wood/chapters/caop.html on the web, or Hoadley's Understanding Wood. You note that you are not required to "ride the bevel" if you cut flute outward. Having a bit of clearance angle keeps you from dragging the heel and compressing/heating your way into extra sanding. If you go retro and acquire a genuine "spindle" gouge with consistent thickness and a broad sweep, you can skew the tool to the direction of advance and tilt it to peel with almost any pitch angle.
Did I mention that you don't want the piece spinning at Mach 3? It's basic physics that increases the energy available with the square of velocity. Keep the energy of the piece low by going slow, and you'll have better control even if you do get too far into the rotation of the wood. You can't increase your strength beyond what it is by turning a dial, so find the speed of advance and rate of rotation that allows a continuous shaving, and stay there.
Problem with cylindrical gouges is inconsistent thickness with the same angle grind. This is worse with the "detail" gouges, because there is more metal under the bottom of the flute than even the "spindle" gouges. You either have to compensate with a high presentation (pitch) angle - bordering on a scrape, or decrease the sharpness angle at the grinder to get lower. Cut with the flute facing out from the turning, don't gouge with it facing into the rotation, and you cannot catch. Your sweet spot will be small, but as you develop skill you will be able to nose up a bit more and still maintain a safe cut. Crawl before walking.
For an explanation of the cutting terms above, see http://homepages.sover.net/~nichael/nlc-wood/chapters/caop.html on the web, or Hoadley's Understanding Wood. You note that you are not required to "ride the bevel" if you cut flute outward. Having a bit of clearance angle keeps you from dragging the heel and compressing/heating your way into extra sanding. If you go retro and acquire a genuine "spindle" gouge with consistent thickness and a broad sweep, you can skew the tool to the direction of advance and tilt it to peel with almost any pitch angle.
Did I mention that you don't want the piece spinning at Mach 3? It's basic physics that increases the energy available with the square of velocity. Keep the energy of the piece low by going slow, and you'll have better control even if you do get too far into the rotation of the wood. You can't increase your strength beyond what it is by turning a dial, so find the speed of advance and rate of rotation that allows a continuous shaving, and stay there.
Thanks All!
I apreciate everyones guidance, now I just need to practice with this new gouge after I finish the bowl I am working on.
I apreciate everyones guidance, now I just need to practice with this new gouge after I finish the bowl I am working on.
John, do you own other tools than this one? I use two sizes of detail gouges. 3/8ths, 1/4 in flute and 5/8ths, 1/2 in flute. They are more like a friendly skew. They are great on the outsides of end grain bowls which is spindle work. And any spindle work. For side grain bowls they are very nice for a final outside cut. I also use the 5/8ths for starting my roughout on side grain outsides. The heavy steel does not beat me up. But i tend to switch to an irish or ellsworth grind gouge for my final outside roughing. For bowl insides? Get a bowl gouge. Need suggestions?