Critter Spray Gun & Shellac

[Randy Anderson]

After a fair amount of studying and some trial and error I'm now using the Critter siphon feed spray gun and shellac. I've only just started using it but so far I'm pleased with the ease of use, cleanup, minimal overspray, standard jars for finishes, etc. That said, I'm still a novice at spray finishes. I have an HVLP sprayer and a large airless sprayer but painting latex or stain on a barn or fence is not the same thing as getting a nice deep gloss with shellac or lacquer on a large vase.

I'm currently focused on shellac for vases where I want a deep finish. My first test went fairly well but a bit of orange peel (expected for a novice) so looking for some input on anyone using a siphon sprayer and shellac re the cut to use, waxed or dewaxed, etc. I really like shellac finishes when I apply it by hand but on larger vases it would be easier to be able to do a quick spray coat or two and then maybe finish with polishing. I haven't tried it with lacquer yet. I have a small shop so I need days where I have good outside climate and can get good ventilation. Shellac is much more manageable re fumes than lacquer.

 

[Richard Coers]

It is very rare to get an absolutely perfect finish off a spray gun. Just look at your car finish, plenty of light orange peel on it. It always takes some finishing of the finish. You will need to wet sand and have some automotive finishing products to bring up a perfect finish. You have to be careful doing that on shellac because it is very sensitive to buffing heat. I always prefer a gravity feed gun.

 

[Doug Freeman]

Much prefer lacquer to shellac for hi gloss/polished finishing. As mentioned the finish must be finished, and lacquer rubs out much better then shellac. For either one keep an eye on film thickness - too thick can result in cracking. IMO if you want to use shellac, use a sprayer to get it on the surface, then french polish to a high gloss vs “rubbing it out”.

Never used a critter, but I typically spray 1 to 1-1/2 lb cut of shellac. If not being overcoated, waxed shellac is fine. Either one will work. If buying zinsser I think waxed is a bit cheaper and more readily available.

 

[Daniel Henry]

After a fair amount of studying and some trial and error I'm now using the Critter siphon feed spray gun and shellac. I've only just started using it but so far I'm pleased with the ease of use, cleanup, minimal overspray, standard jars for finishes, etc. That said, I'm still a novice at spray finishes. I have an HVLP sprayer and a large airless sprayer but painting latex or stain on a barn or fence is not the same thing as getting a nice deep gloss with shellac or lacquer on a large vase.

I'm currently focused on shellac for vases where I want a deep finish. My first test went fairly well but a bit of orange peel (expected for a novice) so looking for some input on anyone using a siphon sprayer and shellac re the cut to use, waxed or dewaxed, etc. I really like shellac finishes when I apply it by hand but on larger vases it would be easier to be able to do a quick spray coat or two and then maybe finish with polishing. I haven't tried it with lacquer yet. I have a small shop so I need days where I have good outside climate and can get good ventilation. Shellac is much more manageable re fumes than lacquer.

You didn't mention the source of your shellac. The shellac "pro's" that I know mix their own using flakes and DNA. They use the PGA to mix their own punch. They claim that the pre-mixed can shellac has some inconsistences and there is a shelf life issue. Buying flakes gives you control over the 'cut' and 'color'. I use the blonde flakes which impart little coloring to the wood, only highlights the grain. Shellac is a great 'sealer'. And just about all other finishing products adhere to the de-wax shellac.

 

[Randy Anderson]

Daniel, for a start I used off the shelf zinsser, the 3lb cut. Per the date code on the can it's less than a year old but still not ideal. I've been cutting it with DNA for hand rub/pad application and working on the cut needed to spray it better. I don't plan to put anything on top of it for now so the wax content wasn't a concern but still, not pure shellac and not cheap by the can. My next step is to get some high quality dewaxed flakes and mix my own.

Doug, sounds like I need to cut my shellac a bit more to spray better. When the weather cooperates I do plan to spray some lacquer but in my small shop, even with my outside vented dust collection going and a backdrop spray box connected the fumes just get too much to tolerate for me. I'm making some very tall floor vases where I will want a very deep gloss finish so lacquer or poly will likely be the way to go.

Richard, I agree that no matter how good I get at the spray technique shellac will look and feel better with a bit of buffing with a cotton pad. The shine and feel I get so far when done by hand is great. Nice shine, gloss but not a deep plastic look and feel. In my markets and for my taste "natural but with a shine" is a good balance for hollow forms.

For years my default and only finish was walnut oil and done. For natural edge bowls and my markets and experience it was and still is a great solution. As I've moved into more hollow forms, which are selling well for me, I needed a better finish solution. I took the advice of a lot of high end finishers - pick a solution and learn it well. Don't bounce around looking for the perfect finish from the start - that comes with practice and patience.

 

[Dean Center]

A local club member is a wiz at spraying lacquer. He'll spray out in his driveway down to about 40F. Keep the lacquer in the shop or garage until everything is set up and ready to go. Sure it's better to spray it when it's warmer, but the stuff dries so fast the cooler temperature doesn't seem to cause a problem. The specific variety of lacquer you use does make a substantial difference, in his opinion. Deft wiping lacquer in a can is not the answer. He uses Sherwin Williams oil based, which is pretty pricey, but it doesn't go bad and will last a very long time in the can.

The lacquer coats all melt together to produce a good monolithic finish and it can be worked on and improved after spraying. I have no experience spraying shellac--do coats melt into each other?

 

[Daniel Henry]

Daniel, for a start I used off the shelf zinsser, the 3lb cut. Per the date code on the can it's less than a year old but still not ideal. I've been cutting it with DNA for hand rub/pad application and working on the cut needed to spray it better. I don't plan to put anything on top of it for now so the wax content wasn't a concern but still, not pure shellac and not cheap by the can. My next step is to get some high quality dewaxed flakes and mix my own.

Doug, sounds like I need to cut my shellac a bit more to spray better. When the weather cooperates I do plan to spray some lacquer but in my small shop, even with my outside vented dust collection going and a backdrop spray box connected the fumes just get too much to tolerate for me. I'm making someI very tall floor vases where I will want a very deep gloss finish so lacquer or poly will likely be the way to go.

Richard, I agree that no matter how good I get at the spray technique shellac will look and feel better with a bit of buffing with a cotton pad. The shine and feel I get so far when done by hand is great. Nice shine, gloss but not a deep plastic look and feel. In my markets and for my taste "natural but with a shine" is a good balance for hollow forms.

I have just recently used a water borne acrylic lacquer from Target Coatings located in New Jersey. There are a few reviews of this product on this forum. I decided to give this product a try for the same/similar reasons that you mentioned. I have attached photos to say the one of the left was spray applied, the one of the right was brushed-on.

 

[Daniel Henry]

A local club member is a wiz at spraying lacquer. He'll spray out in his driveway down to about 40F. Keep the lacquer in the shop or garage until everything is set up and ready to go. Sure it's better to spray it when it's warmer, but the stuff dries so fast the cooler temperature doesn't seem to cause a problem. The specific variety of lacquer you use does make a substantial difference, in his opinion. Deft wiping lacquer in a can is not the answer. He uses Sherwin Williams oil based, which is pretty pricey, but it doesn't go bad and will last a very long time in the can.

The lacquer coats all melt together to produce a good monolithic finish and it can be worked on and improved after spraying. I have no experience spraying shellac--do coats melt into each other?

The mix your own shellac does melt into each preceding coat in the same fashion as does lacquer.

 

[Randy Anderson]

Dean, good info on lacquer. I have a can of Deft brush on that I had planned to try (even though the can says not to) and I have heard other folks here say it does work to spray it. Yes, shellac melts into the previous layer so it's easier to fix previous coat issues and scratches for when you bump it against something in your shop just as your about done. I was really drawn to the history and story of shellac as a finish. Been around for centuries and still a go to finish for fine woodworking. The ability to apply it by hand and rub it into the previous coat with a pad is really nice. Just finished a nice walnut vase and can manage the final hand application quick enough to give me a very nice finish. The DNA evaporates quickly so you have to keep moving and pay attention to where it's dried already but not difficult with a little patience.

 

[Doug Freeman]

I’ve sprayed deft brush on lacquer - works just fine. It has retarder added to enable brushing, so it cant be sprayed as heavily or it will sag. Favorite lacquer is SW CAB acrylic (solvent base), water clear and stays that way - perfect for bright dye colors. Retarder does enable spraying lacquer at lower temps w/o blushing.

Have used both zinsser canned and flake shellac. The zinsser works well, people just think flakes are better - flakes will keep indefinitely, that is an advantage. All shellac, including zinsser, burns in to the previous coat, as does solvent lacquer.

I have sprayed quite a bit of Target em6000 production lacquer (and a couple of their other finishes). IMO its the choice in waterborne, but I dont like the look on turnings, it as well as the other wb finishes dont show chatoyance like solvent finishes. The solids, being different chemistry vs solvent based, refract light very differently and look drab to me. Shellac under the wb finishes can help some with chatoyance, but add extra steps and still dont look as good.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

Have used both zinsser canned and flake shellac. The zinsser works well, people just think flakes are better - flakes will keep indefinitely, that is an advantage. All shellac, including zinsser, burns in to the previous coat, as does solvent lacquer.



All I have read and my experience says flakes do get old and will not dissolve properly. For me I have some as much as 3 years and still work , after that is a toss up. I keep my flakes in the fridge. Oh and by the way pros recommend fresh alcohol . Alcohol absorbs water from the air and the older the product the more water it will have in it.

 

[Randy Anderson]

Update - so far I'm still pleased with how it's going. I spray on a 3-4 coats, grey pad after each coat dries, then hand rub on a final few coats. Doesn't really take that long, dries quick enough that it's manageable and the outcomes have been good. Even though DNA is not as bad as other finish fumes I did get a 3M organic vapor mask that I've been using. The DNA fumes dissipate quickly and a little fresh air clears the shop but over time I don't need the exposure.