I'm planning to turn a piece and have it look like concrete or gray stone in color. Also the surface would need to have some type of texture. Any ideas on how to would be appreciated.
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Concrete or Stone color and texture needed
- Thread starter Bill Tatkovski
- Start date
This is the closest I've been able to find, but I'll be watching this thread to see what other suggestions come up...
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=79
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=79
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
Bill As a joke one year I made Christmas ornaments that looked like they were made from Brick and Concrete. Here is a detail of a lamp I made while doing those. To make the concrete I sprayed the wood with Stone Flek. It is a spray paint like product that produces a texture and looks like stone. I then sprayed it with Gray primer. Then I used white spray paint but stood back about 3 or 4 feet and kind of squirted it at the lamp parts. When you get it just right it takes on a more concrete look.
The lamp was built with separate parts that fit together with tenons so I could paint each section separately.
Think of it like a halftone photo in the paper. These are only black and white dots. If you mix them properly you get a gray. By squirting small white dots on the primer you get a lighter gray and have more control over how you want it to look. Don't move closer to make it lighter. Just spray more dots from the same distance. I strongly suggest making test pieces for each stage to find the right distance and how much of each to work with.
I haven't tried it for the concrete look but you can buy texture sprays from the Hardware designed to add texture to walls when you are trying to do drywall repairs to walls that already have the spray on texture. I've used it on walls and it's great texture depending on how you spray it and which one you use. Unfortunately the idiots that painted my house used it on all the walls so I've had to play with this stuff a lot when doing repairs.
The lamp is actually more gray than it shows in the photo. I was in a hurry and didn't take the time to set my white balance properly on the camera.
For those who are interested the bricks were made by dying the wood red with a few other darker colors mixed in to change some of the bricks. Then I sprayed clear finish over it. I cut the horizontal grooves on the lathe using the toe of the skew and dividers to get the distance right. For the vertical grooves I made a table to go on my lathe banjo. I put my trim router on there in a home made carriage. I custom ground a broken router bit to almost a point and then used my index wheel to give me spacing. I decided to keep the lines in line which made the bricks different sizes. It worked for this project. If I made the bricks the same size then the lines would not have lined up so it was a decision I had to make. I set the depth of cut by making a pattern that fit on the table for the router to ride against. I simply stopped and started each cut at the horizontal lines.
Then I filled the morter joints with drywall compound mixed with a little gray acrylic paint stirred in to knock it down from white to a little off white. Then using water and a course rag I knocked off the excess while I went. A final really light sanding and more finish and it was done.
The lamp was built with separate parts that fit together with tenons so I could paint each section separately.
Think of it like a halftone photo in the paper. These are only black and white dots. If you mix them properly you get a gray. By squirting small white dots on the primer you get a lighter gray and have more control over how you want it to look. Don't move closer to make it lighter. Just spray more dots from the same distance. I strongly suggest making test pieces for each stage to find the right distance and how much of each to work with.
I haven't tried it for the concrete look but you can buy texture sprays from the Hardware designed to add texture to walls when you are trying to do drywall repairs to walls that already have the spray on texture. I've used it on walls and it's great texture depending on how you spray it and which one you use. Unfortunately the idiots that painted my house used it on all the walls so I've had to play with this stuff a lot when doing repairs.
The lamp is actually more gray than it shows in the photo. I was in a hurry and didn't take the time to set my white balance properly on the camera.
For those who are interested the bricks were made by dying the wood red with a few other darker colors mixed in to change some of the bricks. Then I sprayed clear finish over it. I cut the horizontal grooves on the lathe using the toe of the skew and dividers to get the distance right. For the vertical grooves I made a table to go on my lathe banjo. I put my trim router on there in a home made carriage. I custom ground a broken router bit to almost a point and then used my index wheel to give me spacing. I decided to keep the lines in line which made the bricks different sizes. It worked for this project. If I made the bricks the same size then the lines would not have lined up so it was a decision I had to make. I set the depth of cut by making a pattern that fit on the table for the router to ride against. I simply stopped and started each cut at the horizontal lines.
Then I filled the morter joints with drywall compound mixed with a little gray acrylic paint stirred in to knock it down from white to a little off white. Then using water and a course rag I knocked off the excess while I went. A final really light sanding and more finish and it was done.
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There is a flexible grout/caulk that actually does contain cement and fine sand. It comes in the standard caulk tube that fits into a caulking gun. It is normally used for pointing cracks in mortar where there is likely to be some movement. It also holds up well outdoors. I suppose that you could use a notched trowel to spread this stuff onto a turning, but it does not have a very long "open" time before it sets up. The stuff that I got came from Home Depot. I won't ask, "why".