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Compressor question

John Van Domelen

Retired Forum Admin
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Mar 19, 2007
Messages
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Location
Houston, TX
I need to buy a new compressor for studio use and would like to know if oil compressors are significantly quieter than than the non oiled variety. The building houses 6 studios and I would rather not cheese off the other artists with a loud compressor.

What kind/brand/model do you guys recommend given similar air output requirements (modest- will be using one drill or die grinder at a time).

Quietness and durability are the top two concerns. It must be 110v, there is only one 220 outlet in the room I am in.

Thanxs
 
Air Compressor

John,
I have owned both and haven't noticed a significant noise difference between the oiled and the oilless. However, you may need to look at this a different way. The die grinder is a tool that uses a fair amount of air. If you use a small compressor, it will be running often as it rebuilds the tank pressure. If you were to buy a larger size, say at least a 5HP with a 30 gallon tank, it will not be running as often, which your fellow tenants might like better. And, as far as quiet, you can always build a sound insulated enclosure; just leave enough airflow so it doesn't get too hot. Hope this helps.🙂
 
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I am not an expert in this subject. Please pay attention to the horsepower number, duty rating and check the cfm at certain psi requirement of your air tools . Some companies have grossly inflated figures; a 50% cycle duty rating already assumes the compressor is not running more than half of the time.

Drain your tank regularly if your compressor is in a hot and humid environment.
 
Low-speed oiled types are quieter by far than diaphragm types. They also build pressure more slowly, but are far more durable than their universal-motor cousins because they aren't in such a hurry. Problem with your situation is the 110V limit. Don't know your limiting amperage, but most 110 units are designed for 15 amp maximum draw. You compensate by installing a huge tank and trade time for convenience. I dump my little Dewalt twin-tank portable into a stationary 20-gallon when I want to use anything with fair draw. Have to stop once in a while even with that on grinders and such.

As to noise, I don't understand what kind of unit would make more noise than a die grinder. You'll isolation-mount and wall in (with appropriate ventilation) anything you buy, of course, so that no problem.

Sounds like you're in a co-op situation there. Maybe you could get together and get a good 220 unit and provide each work area with an outlet as the preferred method?
 
I need to buy a new compressor for studio use and would like to know if oil compressors are significantly quieter than than the non oiled variety.

Quietness and durability are the top two concerns. It must be 110v, there is only one 220 outlet in the room I am in.

Thanxs

I agree with the others in that more importantly you need to know the CFM and pressure requirements. I too am looking for a solid 100V compressor, but in the right price range Ingersol is about the limit.
If you want to run a die grinder or sander it will take alot more than an airbrush. Look at the tools you are going to use ans work backwards in the other requirements.

If it is low pressure, look at Val-aire and Sil-aire, big bucks but real quiet.
 
According to my very imperfect understanding, oil and spray equipment are not a good combination. Add an air dryer for spraying.

Regular draining is a good idea, but sometimes hard to remember. To make it better, add a piece of pipe (plus an elbow if needed) between the tank and the valve. If the pipe corrodes, it's easier to replace than the entire tank.

Joe
 
I recently purchased a large compressor, so I've done a lot of studying lately.

Horsepower ratings are pretty meaningless. Many of the cheap brands (and I include Campbell Hausfeld in that category) over-state the horsepower to the point of being ludicrous. Even some of the lower-end Ingersol-Rand compressors are advertised the same way. Anything running on 110v will be about 1.5 (true) HP or less.

Tank size is also fairly meaningless. If the pump attached to the tank does not put out the number of cubic feet per minute that your tool needs, you will eventually be waiting for the compressor to catch up. All the tank buys you is a bit more extra time before the pump kicks in. Once the pump is running, the tank has very little bearing on the performance of your air tool.

Steve is right...the CFM is really the key metric, and you should work backwards from the CFM requirements of your tools to decide what compressor to get. I learned this - eventually - after running a pneumatic sander with a compressor that did not put out the amount of air needed. The sander would get slower and slower, until I would have to stop and wait 4 or 5 minutes to the compressor to build up pressure in the tank again. Now that I have a real compressor, I see how much time I lost using a slow sander, and also having to wait for it to play catch-up.

I wouldn't recommend an oilless compressor. You will very likely be replacing it. 😉

The 110v power limits your choices somewhat, but I'd suggest looking for a compressor with a belt-driven pump, as opposed to one with a universal motor. The belt-drive pump will be quieter. You may be able to find something workable on the local used market. Have a look at Craig's List and the like. If you're unable to find something along those lines, some of the portable units geared towards professionals are robust machines.
 
I think I have narrowed it down to this one:

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_207226_207226

CFM at Max PSI: 4.9, CFM at 90 PSI: 5.7, Max. PSI: 135 - will power what I plan on using it with

Thoughts?

1. Buy and Use the Ingersol-Rand synthetic oil ("Select" brand) which Northern sells in the starter kit mentioned.

2. Plan on replacing the tank drain. Stock is one of those cheezy petcock valves that will get fouled with rust flakes. You should remove the original, then install a brass el and pipe to bring the drain to the front of the tank. Then install a 1/4" ball valve.

3. If you'd like to forget about having to remember to drain the condensation out of your tank, install a Wilkerson auto-drain. It will open and drain the condensate at least once during every fill/use cycle. You'll find one at, item # 4919K13 for $49.00 at McMaster-Car at http://www.mcmaster.com/ Mine's been faultless for 5 years.

4. Even though the compressor you've chosen has a regulator, someone may tell you to add a auto-lubricating filter unit so you don't have to keep putting oil into your tool. Do not do so. Reason being that such units will contaminate your air hose and/or piping with oil. If you then want to use your air for spray finishing or cleaning turnings, you'll have to replace all that stuff as the oil will wreck finishes and put spots on objects.

5. If you get tired of tripping over your air hose and decide to put in a hard pipe "system", NEVER EVER LISTEN TO SOME DARWIN AWARD RECRUITER who says to use PVC pipe. Use type L copper or galvanized steel pipe only with a 3-6' 250 psi jumper hose from the compressor to the hard pipe. PVC pipe will shatter without warning and kill you with the flying shrapnel.

6. Lastly, get and use some hearing protection. The high whine from your die grinder and air-powered tools will cause hearing damage.
 
John

If the CFM ratings match, it should work, the HP is over rated. They are "claiming" 2HP from a 110@15amp, not physically possible (it took some digging but I found a site that gave the amp rating). In order to get an "honest" 2HP from 110 it takes better then 20 amps.

Ralph
 
5. If you get tired of tripping over your air hose and decide to put in a hard pipe "system", NEVER EVER LISTEN TO SOME DARWIN AWARD RECRUITER who says to use PVC pipe. Use type L copper or galvanized steel pipe only with a 3-6' 250 psi jumper hose from the compressor to the hard pipe. PVC pipe will shatter without warning and kill you with the flying shrapnel..


At work we us high-density polyethylene (HDPE) piping (the one we used is blue). Works great and is much cheaper then "L" or iron. It's also rated for this use
 
Ingersoll Rand Compressor.

I think I have narrowed it down to this one:

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w..._207226_207226

CFM at Max PSI: 4.9, CFM at 90 PSI: 5.7, Max. PSI: 135 - will power what I plan on using it with

Thoughts?
________

John, I purchased that very one from Northern Tool along with ordering the synthetic lubricating oil and filters from IR. Had a Cambell Hausfield which was extremely noisy and totally gave up the ghost. I love this one and it is very much quieter than the CH. You will not be sorry.

Bill
 
Leaning toward a 220 unit

Ack,

Some guys on another foruum have me leaning toward the same brand, slightly larger unit, double the CFM, same cost.

This one: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_158284_158284

Thoughts?

I would have to share the plug it is on with my 3520b (doable for 9 months whilst I am in the studio) until I get it home (where I have a 220 outlet that I can dedicate to it).

I am thinking if I got in early I could fire up the compressor, fill the tank, turn it off, and then turn - I should have enough in the tank for blowing out hollow forms and getting dust off the ways etc.

Some great advice here - many many thanxs! :cool2:
 
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Ack,

Some guys on another foruum have me leaning toward the same brand, slightly larger unit, double the CFM, same cost.

This one: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_158284_158284

Thoughts?

I would have to share the plug it is on with my 3520b (doable for 9 months whilst I am in the studio) until I get it home (where I have a 220 outlet that I can dedicate to it).

I am thinking if I got in early I could fire up the compressor, fill the tank, turn it off, and then turn - I should have enough in the tank for blowing out hollow forms and getting dust off the ways etc.

Some great advice here - many many thanxs! :cool2:

That's the unit I have, although I see it appears to have been derated by 2 CFM as mine is 12 cfm. Note that it does not come equipped with a filter or regulator. Mine has been quite adequate for all of my needs, including carving, spray finishing, sand blasting, and tire changing & rotation. 😀

I change the oil once a year. My pump went bad at 1.5 years and IG sent a tech to my house, replaced to pump and also replaced the pressure-troll for a higher & closer spread, all at no charge. Good company.
 
I've been using (& trying to kill) a very noisy oil-less for eight years now, but the stupid thing won't die so I can get a quieter one. The first IR one said it was 75 - 80 db and the second said nothing. I've got an inverter generator I use for demonstrating and camping that's 58 db at full load. Most of the belt driven ones I've seen in garages seemed to be in that range as well. Why is this one rated louder? I'm certain it's still quieter than my old one, but I thought the belt driven ones were quieter than that.
 
Mark, how is this one on the ears - I can't seem to find a dB listed - guess I could always contact IR and ask. 🙂

Thanxs!

I have mine set up in my garage and then piped into the basement shop. This is NOT a silent compressor 😉 but you can hold a "fairly normal" conversation with someone in the same room when it's running. I mounted mine on an isolation system using 2x4s and rubber coil spring pads. The garage is next to my living room, and while you can tell that the unit's running, my wife doesn't complain about the noise. Since you will 😉 be wearing hearing protection while in use, you and your neighbors should be OK.

I did help things a bit by removing the guard box around fan and belt. No matter what I tried, I couldn't get it to stop rattling when the pump was running.
 
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John, I think that the large 220 V model would be ideal in your own home shop. In the studio - you need useability and mobility as well. How are you going to take up the room required for the large 220V model? Mine, the smaller garage model you listed. would be ideal for your use there. You are certainly welcome to come see and try mine if you wish before you purchase one. It is relatively quiet and has been very useable for my purpose. IR is a good brand. Happy turning.

Bill
 
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noise

I have a pancake compressor and it it the noisest thing around. You can't stand to be around it while its running. I have had an oilless rig with 24gal tank and it was very noisy. I now have a oiled compressor with aluminum pump. It is much quiter than the others but it is still noiser thant one with a cast iron pump. It is also a different kind of noise, much lower pitch than the high pitched whine from the oilless ones with universal motor. It is at bearabel to be in the room with (I still put mine in the other room).

I would think there would not be much worse that a die grinder with an oiless compressor.

Vernon
 
Note on 220

John,

Check the breaker rating for your 220 outlet. I originally set my compressor up with a 20 amp breaker with 10-2 home run wiring. However, since the unit is located in an unheated garage, I found it had trouble starting when the pump got really cold in the winter. I switched in a 30 breaker, and it's been fine ever since. If you keep the compressor in a heated space, this shouldn't be an issue for you, but I thought I should mention it anyway.

mm
 
The 24 gal tank garage model by IR is an cast iron oiled filled 2 piston pump driven by fanbelt from the 110V motor. It is very quiet compared to the CH oiless 5.5HP? 24gal that finally gave up. Would not ever have one of those again. The IR is a very good compressor and portable as well. Has been extremely pleasing to use.

Bill
 
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