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Cold environment finish

Joined
Nov 5, 2015
Messages
39
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2
Location
Fort Peck, MT
Any info on what finishes that may be successfully used in a cold environment? My cousin has no heat in shop in Livingston, MT and had asked me about what finish he may use. I've got heat, thankfully, it was 3°this morning, so I don't know. Thanks.
 
Boiled seal or polar bear oil. 🙂
I would think cold temps will slow the process down on most finishes.
Many finishes have a temperature range that they need to be applied and cured within.
 
Any info on what finishes that may be successfully used in a cold environment?

I think temps below 50F are going to affect application and severely inhibit curing of most any finish. If’n it were me, I’d find a finish that is tolerable for curing in the house. My turnery is in my basement, so I kinda know how the whole house can be affected by smelly finishes. I find that Tried & True finishes actually smell pretty good. (This is the second time I’ve mentioned T&T today! I’m just a fan.)
 
Any info on what finishes that may be successfully used in a cold environment? My cousin has no heat in shop in Livingston, MT and had asked me about what finish he may use. I've got heat, thankfully, it was 3°this morning, so I don't know. Thanks.

I think temps below 50F are going to affect application and severely inhibit curing of most any finish. If’n it were me, I’d find a finish that is tolerable for curing in the house. My turnery is in my basement, so I kinda know how the whole house can be affected by smelly finishes. I find that Tried & True finishes actually smell pretty good. (This is the second time I’ve mentioned T&T today! I’m just a fan.)

Sometimes it gets bitterly cold here ... like below 50° F outdoors, but nice and warm in my shop. I usually don't try to finish anything when it's that cold. When the temperature gets down below 0° F maybe he could substitute a chisel for a paintbrush ... or, do like Owen does and just snort his finish. 😛
 
Bob, I would wait til after the spring breakup.....To finish anything.......My question is how you get to that month of summer and not burn all your turnings for heat?
 
...or, do like Owen does and just snort his finish. 😛

🙂

A few years ago, upon opening a new can of Behlen’s Rockhard Tabletop Varnish, I could immediately smell that the formulation had changed. Behlen's went from using a phenolic resin to a urethane resin. It stunk and I went on a quest to locate another product. A basement shop dictates that sort of thing.
 
Thank you all for the input. It was mostly as I anticipated, with the exception of the boiled seal or polar bear oil, and Johnny said he would be on a quest to locate some. As to burning the turnings, yes, some of them do go for heat, generally followed by utterances of profanity due to my mistakes.
 
When I was desperate to get stuff done in the winter, friction polish and spray lacquer were my choices.
The friction polish dried quickly on small things.
The lacquer was a different problem.
I would try to heat an area to at least 50 and wait after the night for the dust to settle.
In the morning I would spray mist coats and then evacuate the area.
The furnace is set low during the day while we are away at work. so no drawing fumes into the house.
An oil filled electric heater in the shop kept things above freezing.
After work, the coast was clearer ( not as toxic ). Evaluate the finish and either coat again late ( after the furnace was down for the night ) or wait till morning.
And it isn't really all that cold here.

I tried some home brew and oil finishes, but it just took too long to cure at 50 ish even with some added heat..
Taking the pieces to work helped sometimes. But not everyone has that option.
 
I turn in an unheated open shop. I just bring my bowls in immediately after completion and then apply walnut oil. I agree that finishes are best with some heat. I occasionally use Tried and True pure Danish Oil, and I've had good luck applying coats in my bowl drying shed at temperatures above freezing. It takes a little longer to cure, but cures nonetheless. Since I live in a smaller cabin, I don't want to have curing linseed oil in my home long term due to sensitization issues. I agree with Owen, Tried and True finishes smell great, and I would bet that occasional use in a backroom would cause no sensitization issues.
 
Depending on the size of the item being turned, thin CA glue does a pretty good job on small items.
Many pen turners use CA glue with good success as a finish for these small items.
Like Mark mentioned above, you can easily make or purchase a friction polish and apply multiple
coats of this finish in a cold work space. You can turn the speed of the lathe up when you burnish
the friction polish and it heats up the friction polish and quickly cures the finish to the wood. Friction
Polish is so easy to make and really is a versatile finish to use on many wood turning items.
 
Bob,
I agree with Zach on the walnut oil. It doesn't smell bad, so your friend could apply it in the shop, then bring the bowl inside to cure. I assume he's already wrapped his shop in 6 mil plastic to keep out the wind.

One other option is to make a drying box. I made one for the fly rods I build and it works very well. The rod dryer is a simple plywood box with holes and poorly fitting doors, but 60 watts of halogen puck lights keeps it at about 80 degrees in my 60 degree basement. (All temperatures in old fashioned Fahrenheit, Prof. Boehme)

My formerly unheated shop would usually be about 20 degrees above the outside temp, here on the west side of the pass. He's got more wind but a little warmer climate, so a couple of 60 watt incandescent bulbs in a 30" cube of plywood should be enough to keep the temp above 65 degrees, warm enough for finishes. A box would also help keep dust particles from getting stuck in the finish, as well. Obtaining incandescent bulbs will be a problem for the future, but as long as the feed stores sell chicks, there will be some sort of warming bulbs available.
 
Lacquer? Never tried it but there's no need for a polymeric conversion; the volatiles flash off and it's hard. Same with bug squeezings ( I'm having a senile moment here) Shellac yah shellac. Just use a high percentage alcohol with as little water as possible. Anhydrous would be nice but very spendy.
 
I did not have heat for several years in the shop/garage. I do now but typically set it at 50 degrees when I am not working there. I have found if you bring the finish and the item to be finished in the house and let them get to room temperature it helps a lot. Then wait for the occasional warm day to do some finishing. Even with heat I seem to get behind getting items finished in the winter. Allyn
 
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