Cocobolo Drying Help

[jrwheels]

I recently bought a few pieces of Cocobolo 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 12". They are wet and completely waxed. I am going to make croquet mallets out of them with a finished size of 2 3/8" X 2 3/8" x 9". Actually just squaring them up. I need to find the best way to dry the wood.

1. Air dry; should I remove the wax except from the ends? How long to dry?

2. Can I boil squares like these? Again how long to dry?

3. Same question for microwave.

4. Should I plane the wood before drying.

I am new dealing with green wood. I am mainly a furniture builder and only deal with kiln dried wood. I thought this form would be a great place to get the information I need.

Thanks, Jim

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

I've tried microwaving a couple different dalbergia species that were cut locally (cocobolo is dalbergia retusa). Based on the experience, I would not recommend microwaving any dalbergia species. Cracking and oil spots were real problems.

I put unsealed east indian rosewood turning blanks (dalbergia latifolia) that I cut locally on a shelf in my garage (South Florida = warm & humid). There hasn't been any checking (no pith in the pieces) even though the pieces aren't sealed. Two years later and the last one I just turned was nowhere near dry.

The oils in cocobolo make it pretty water proof. I'm not sure what effect boiling would have on it. Although you would think that if the oils slow water absorption into the wood, they would also slow loss of water. So why do commercial vendors coat cocobolo and other rosewoods for sale? Just out of habit? (Sorry, I know you are looking for answers and not more questions.)

I turned a 20 year old block of honduran rosewood that a friend gave me. It was dry. It was like turning a block of steel. I swear there were sparks coming off the "wood" as the tools wore their way through it.

The dalbergia species that I've cut locally and turned green have not moved much at all after turning. They seem very stable as they dry. If it was me and I was turning croquet mallet heads, I wouldn't worry about drying the wood. Just turn them, buff them and whack away.

Plan a mechanical joint that doesn't rely on glue. Watch the dust, both breathing and on the skin.

Hopefully there's something of use to you in my ramblings.

Ed

 

[Charlie Knighton]

Watch the dust, both breathing and on the skin.

do most people have an allergic reation???

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

I wouldn't say that "most" people have a reaction, but enough do that caution should be used. Lots of tropical woods fall into this category, not just cocobolo.

I'm lucky in that I haven't ever had a reaction to any wood on my skin (yet). If my sister gets anywhere near mango wood (and lots of others) she gets a major rash that's just like what you get up north from poison ivy. I've been to local demos where the demonstrator had to switch wood because people in the audience started having a reaction.

I always wear my trend airshield in the shop. I'm not taking any chances with my lungs.

Ed

 

[Steve Worcester]

Cocobolo is one of those woods that I find you can't speed up the drying, except maybe alcohol drying.
Wood is coated to slow down the drying process, but as your observations point out, any dense tropical wood does not quickly release it's moisture.

(IMO) If it is green, cut it into approximate lengths for your use, date it with a white or silver marker, wax the ends and leave it in the house for about 3 years. No that wasn't a mistype. But it drys real slow. And after the three years, then take it to the shop and let it sit for a couple of weeks.

While I don't turn cocobolo because of allergies to it (did for about 6-8 years) I have a lot of tropical hardwoods and that is about the way I treat all of it. Even at that, it can be a crap shoot still.

 

[Gretch Flo]

Partial kiln drying??

Is there such a thing as Partial kiln drying??? Waiting 3 years seems too long for me (I don't do exotics so was just curious). I know others on this forum have made their own kiln, but can you get a lumber yard to do some small pieces for you? and not totally so the gouge can make a "dent"???? Gretch

 

[MichaelMouse]

Is there such a thing as Partial kiln drying??? Waiting 3 years seems too long for me (I don't do exotics so was just curious). I know others on this forum have made their own kiln, but can you get a lumber yard to do some small pieces for you? and not totally so the gouge can make a "dent"???? Gretch

Commercial operations don't normally go with mixed thicknesses or species, so they'd have to have a full charge of this stuff to even bother. You, as the owner, can add some energy to the system by warming and keeping it there. Cardboard box and a Christmas light. That will help break the hydrogen bonds between water and the cellulose. Now it has to find its way out while not lingering and rebonding along the way. It'll take a while.

Exotics like this are the only reason vacuum or dehumidifying kiln types are worthwhile. Small lots of high value wood.

 

[Marc Ruby]

Just turned a trunk into blanks

I bought a 200lb piece a few years ago. I rough cut it, only waxed the ends and let it sit until this winter when I finally made blanks out of it. My personal opinion is that letting the wood dry out naturally works best. Artificial methods can create a lot of toxic fumes.

Once the wood ages for a bit then rough it out and let it sit for another three to 6 months. Cocobolo doesn't warp that much for me so I turn the rough bowl with only moderate walls. Unless I'm planning for a lid. Once I think it's ready I just do it from start to end with no breaks.

Not a very scientific approach but it seems to work best for me.

 

[jrwheels]

Sounds like air drying is the answer. The squares are completely wax coated. Should I remove all the wax except for the ends?

Jim

 

[Ron Sardo]

Sounds like air drying is the answer. The squares are completely wax coated. Should I remove all the wax except for the ends?

Jim

Conventional wisdom would say to do just that.

Someone gave me a 3x3x18 piece of cocobolo that was completely sealed in wax. Using a cabinet scraper I removed the wax from the sides leaving the last inch or so of wax on and the ends still sealed. I placed the wood in an area that I knew it would be comfortable and forgot about it A few months later I happened to notice it again and I found a long crack from one end to the other.

I think I would have noticed the crack when I was removing the wax, so I'm pretty sure it happen afterwards. But then there could have been a hairline crack in the wood before it was waxed and the reason I didn't notice it was because it was filled with wax.

So the answer to your question is: Maybe and Good Luck

 

[Wipedout]

My advise would be if you are in a hurry is to find some dried Cocobolo - I know it's not the answer you wanted to hear but I don't think you will be happy with rushed results ... I'm sure you can find buyers for these to help off set the cost .. These will take awhile to dry

Also - and maybe its me but if they are 2 1/2 and you want 2 3/8th from its going be tight to take a 2 1/2 inch square piece and round it to 2 3/8th ...

Maybe its just me ....

Robert

 

[Malcolm Smith]

You might as well turn the outside to a little more than the final dimension, but don't turn the ends and leave them waxed. An unknown is how dry the wood already is. I have a scale designed for weighing refrldgerant. It has the accuracy of a good postage scale yet will weigh heavy blocks of wood. A scale like this can be used to track the drying. About once a month, I weigh first turned bowls. When they stop losing weight, they are stable and ready for the second turning. If the wood is green, I agree with the statement that it might take three years to fully dry. Most any cocobolo you buy is not likely to be more than partially dry. A moisture meter will give some indication of this if it has a setting for cocobolo. The problem is they come with setting charts that do not include the less common woods.

I'd certainly be careful with this wood and wear a respirator. It's notorious for causing people problems.

Malcolm Smith