Cleaning chucks and jaws with stain on them...without disassembly?

[Jon Rista]

Well, a couple of weeks back, I had a mishap with a can of stain. I reached for something else, the can of stain was there, caught my hand, and tipped over. Not entirely, but enough that a decent blop of stain poured out and onto...my workbench, a bunch of tools, as well as one of my chucks and a couple sets of jaws that were sitting there. Needless to say, the chuck aint chucking right now.

I generally keep my chucks pretty clean, blow them out after each use. My main chuck is a sealed Record Power, which seems to need only that, to be blown off each use. I have a couple of Nova G3 chucks, however, that seem to gather gunk inside of them. In the past, I disassembled them to clean them out....however REASSEMLBING is an unholy PITA. So I am wondering...is it possible to clean a chuck without disassembling them? Its all just metal...and I've never lubricated them in any way. So, I figure, with the right solvent, maybe I could just immerse them and let the solvent do the work, then drain them and...clean them out. Not real sure what the best solvent to use would be though. I know I get a decent amount of dust packed underneath the slides in the nova chucks. Taking them apart in the past, was a way to really scrub that spiral thread on the base. Is there any solvent that would take care of that dust deeper in, without the need for disassembly? And, to boot, dissolve this stain that ended up getting in there too?

Thanks!

 

[Phil Hamel]

I would try mineral spirits to see what it would do. Let it soak overnight then blow it out good with air. I have Nova g2 and g3's and don't relish the idea of taking them apart either! I try to blow them off with air after use.

 

[Jon Rista]

Does it matter what kind of mineral spirits? I had a big can of the "odorless" kind, which I originally bought to clean off some stain on my trex deck boards. The stuff never worked for that purpose. I've had my chuck and jaws soaking in that mineral oil since I posted this (went out and started digging out every solvent I had, and had forgotten about the mineral spirits, so decided to give it a try.)

Thus far...it doesn't seem to have done jack. I've tried to use the odorless mineral spirits for some other things, and the results are NEVER like what I used to get with true mineral spirits. Here in nanny state Colorado, true mineral spirits have been outlawed, so we can't buy them locally or online. So this is the only kind of mineral spirit I seem to be able to get ahold of. I do have DNA (sold as "Fuel"), Acetone, and Turpentine. I think that is about it for solvents now. Nanny state Colorado has outlawed everything else.

 

[Jon Rista]

Found a can of lacquer thinner. That seemed to start working within minutes. Managed to get some old shellac off right away. The stain is taking longer, but it does seem to be softening. Also seems to have loosened the dust packed into the gear a bit. Hopefully a couple of hours soak will do the trick.

 

[Tim Connell]

Odorless mineral spirits as you've discovered are a waste of money. Regular mineral spirits probably won't do too much better with dried stain. Long shot, but can you get lacquer thinner?

A strong solvent in an ultra sonic cleaner would work, but those rated for solvent are probably very high $$$.

I'd just disassemble and use fine steel wool. The stain won't be bound tightly to the metal, and should come off with just a little elbow grease.

Edit, you found the lacquer thinner while I was typing, glad it seems to be working for you.

 

[Jon Rista]

Odorless mineral spirits as you've discovered are a waste of money. Regular mineral spirits probably won't do too much better with dried stain. Long shot, but can you get lacquer thinner?

A strong solvent in an ultra sonic cleaner would work, but those rated for solvent are probably very high $$$.

I'd just disassemble and use fine steel wool. The stain won't be bound tightly to the metal, and should come off with just a little elbow grease.

Edit, you found the lacquer thinner while I was typing, glad it seems to be working for you.

Ah! I just posted about lacquer thinner. I did have some, do I gave it a try. Seems to be working well.

I did look up "odorless" mineral spirits. Apparently, they suck because all the aromatics, the stuff that actually does any real work, have all been removed. The remnant is aliphatic compounds, which are not nearly as strong (still a solvent, just not nearly as effective). Aliphatic also stink. Aromatics at least smell good (while they eat away your brain!)

Anyway... Lacquer thinner is doing the job, I think. I may still have to take everything apart to scrub the inside... Guess I'll see in a little bit here.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

Think of wood stains as really thin paint. If all else fails, go to paint strippers. Citrus paint stripper may work, but, if it's still available to the public (I haven't used it in 30 years), go with Zip Strip or its modern day equivalent. Heavy rubber gloves, eye and clothing protection, and be outsside when using Zip Strip.

 

[Jon Rista]

Think of wood stains as really thin paint. If all else fails, go to paint strippers. Citrus paint stripper may work, but, if it's still available to the public (I haven't used it in 30 years), go with Zip Strip or its modern day equivalent. Heavy rubber gloves, eye and clothing protection, and be outsside when using Zip Strip.

Thanks. I have some of the cheap "nanny state" stripper. That stuff doesn't work well either. We've lost almost all the good stuff it seems...anything with aromatics, outside of a couple things like turpentine. Its ridiculous. I don't know how anyone could manage varnishes now, without the ability to use effective thinners anymore.

 

[robo hippy]

I do keep one grinder with a wire wheel on it, 6 inch high speed grinder. I find it has a lot of uses. For stains, as others have said, mineral spirits aren't great. You may have to take the jaws off for this one.

robo hippy

 

[Jon Rista]

I do keep one grinder with a wire wheel on it, 6 inch high speed grinder. I find it has a lot of uses. For stains, as others have said, mineral spirits aren't great. You may have to take the jaws off for this one.

robo hippy

Jaws are all off. Took those off before.

It is looking like I'm going to need to disassemble the whole chuck, though. After letting it dry for a bit, there is still a lot of stickiness internally. Well...round 2!

 

[Jon Rista]

Well, managed to avoid disassembly. Some air pressure and racking the chuck open and closed cleared out the bit of gunk that was causing problems. The lacquer thinner does seem to do the job, but it eats right through my nitrile gloves. Not sure if there are a type of glove that will work with lacquer thinner?

 

[Aaron Harris]

I think the purging of the real working compounds in our solvents is a federal thing. You can't get real mineral spirits anywhere anymore, and yeah, the odorless stuff sucks. I wish I had known it was going to disappear. I would have stockpiled a bunch of cans (along with some Johnson's Paste Wax). I don't know about your stain issue; my chucks have stains all over them lol. But I did do some chuck maintenance this week on my 4 Record Power SC4's and a Nova I kept for my 35mm jaws. I too blow mine out after every use. But today I went one step further after blowing out. I got a lot of mineral spirits into the body of the chuck, and fired up the rpm's to about 1400 or so, and kept blowing it out as it spun at high speed. Then I did the same with a few spurts of CRC-3-36 lubricant and corrosion inhibitor, spinning that out at speed as well. I don't know how much it helped, but I figure it couldn't hurt.

 

[Tom Gall]

and fired up the rpm's to about 1400 or so,

Did you stay out of the line-of-fire from the over spray?
Haven't done it in a few years - but I used WD-40 (not that it matters). BUT, I cut the flaps off a cardboard box and sat it sideways on the lathe bed up to the headstock and covering the chuck. Turn on the lathe for 20-30 seconds ... all over spray is caught by the box. If you don't have a large enough box just use a smaller one and hold it over the chuck. Then wipe away any residue with a paper towel.

 

[John K Jordan]

I disassembled them to clean them out....however REASSEMLBING is an unholy PITA.

Curious, what kind of trouble is the reassembly? And what kind of chuck? I have several styles of Teknatool chuck and occasionally take them apart to clean and dry lube. Those with a big snap ring are more difficult but no problem with a heavy-duty snap ring tool.

JKJ

 

[Tim Connell]

I stopped using mineral spirits several years ago (even the old high odor version) and switched to naphtha. Doesn't have the greasy feel of MS and evaporates more quickly.

 

[Bill Alston]

Curious, what kind of trouble is the reassembly? And what kind of chuck? I have several styles of Teknatool chuck and occasionally take them apart to clean and dry lube. Those with a big snap ring are more difficult but no problem with a heavy-duty snap ring tool.

JKJ

I agree. I’ve had several of my chucks apart. The snap ring can be a bit tricky without decent pliers but apart from that it’s straightforward. Teknatool say to use lubricant on reassembly but don’t specify what lubricant!
These instructions are out of *date but give a general idea..

https://www.teknatool.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/NOVA-Chuck-Maintenance-Guide.pdf

* I have a recent supernova2 chuck and the jaws are not numbered as in th pictures ( but are marked with dimples cast into the reverse side).

 

[John K Jordan]

I agree. I’ve had several of my chucks apart. The snap ring can be a bit tricky without decent pliers but apart from that it’s straightforward. Teknatool say to use lubricant on reassembly but don’t specify what lubricant!
...

I use a dry lubricant that contains teflon (shake well)(starts out wet then dries), then mesh and work the parts to distribute the lubricant before it dries.. I don't want to use an oil which doesn't dry and may collect fine dust.

I have a recent supernova2 chuck and the jaws are not numbered as in th pictures ( but are marked with dimples cast into the reverse side).

Supernova used to say put #1 in slot #1 then proceed with the rest in order (clockwise from the top IIRC, have to look) If you go the wrong directly it will be obvious! (put them together on the bench and turn the set over over to see if you have a spiral, or better, put them on the spiral gear when it's out of the chuck to verify the order.)

Now Supernova say it doesn't matter which slot you start with, they are all the same. If the slots aren't numbered, just put #1 into any slot and proceed. On some chucks there is a set screw on positioned to keep the jaws from extending too far out - I start with #1 jaw in that slot.

I think some of my SN2s don't have the numbers, just the dots.
I have some SN1s, some SN2s, and one Titan. I gave away my G3s so I'm down to just 18 chucks. It's a disease, somebody help me!

JKJ

 

[Bill Alston]

I’ve found that even if chuck bodies are numbered it doesn’t matter which jaw goes into which slot, provided they go in, in the correct order. I did this on a Record Power chuck to prove the point and the jaws, as expected, closed up perfectly.

My Supernova2 came lubricated with some type of heavy oil from new so i reassembled it with Slideway 68 oil after cleaning.

 

[Jon Rista]

Curious, what kind of trouble is the reassembly? And what kind of chuck? I have several styles of Teknatool chuck and occasionally take them apart to clean and dry lube. Those with a big snap ring are more difficult but no problem with a heavy-duty snap ring tool.

JKJ

Well, in my case, it is always getting the scroll plate and the grooves on the jaw slides themselves to all line up properly. At least with my G3, I've never quite been able to just push them all teh way in, and then align the scroll plate. The slides have to be out a little bit from center, otherwise the gears will never quite mesh. But...getting all four slides to the right place....meh!!! Its an annoying process, every time.

 

[Jon Rista]

I stopped using mineral spirits several years ago (even the old high odor version) and switched to naphtha. Doesn't have the greasy feel of MS and evaporates more quickly.

I'd have done this...except naphtha is also banned by the nanny state of colorado. I can get turpentine, "odorless" mineral spirits (they stink! not actually odorless, just aromaticless), DNA as "fuel" (doesn't seem to be the same solvent wise as it used to be some years ago before the laws changed, and it stinks, too!), and then of course the crappy paint thinners and strippers that hardly work.

All the other VOCs...gone. Banned. No longer available for purchase in or shippable to the nanny state of colorado. :'(

 

[Jon Rista]

I use a dry lubricant that contains teflon (shake well)(starts out wet then dries), then mesh and work the parts to distribute the lubricant before it dries.. I don't want to use an oil which doesn't dry and may collect fine dust.


Supernova used to say put #1 in slot #1 then proceed with the rest in order (clockwise from the top IIRC, have to look) If you go the wrong directly it will be obvious! (put them together on the bench and turn the set over over to see if you have a spiral, or better, put them on the spiral gear when it's out of the chuck to verify the order.)

Now Supernova say it doesn't matter which slot you start with, they are all the same. If the slots aren't numbered, just put #1 into any slot and proceed. On some chucks there is a set screw on positioned to keep the jaws from extending too far out - I start with #1 jaw in that slot.

I think some of my SN2s don't have the numbers, just the dots.
I have some SN1s, some SN2s, and one Titan. I gave away my G3s so I'm down to just 18 chucks. It's a disease, somebody help me!

JKJ

Care to share what dry lubricant you use? I tried some synthetic grease once...this was back in 2020 and my first cleaning ever. It wasn't a lot, just a little, but boy was that a mistake. Had to clean it again just a few weeks later. I've gone totally unlubricated since....but, if there is a good dry lubricant that will work without collecting dust, that would be nice, as these jaws aren't the smoothest.

I have a Record Power chuck. Its their larger sized one, and it's usually got a set of 100mm jaws on it. Its a much nicer chuck, sealed, I've never had to clean it in...I guess three years that I've had it now. It works like a charm, has alternative inserts so it can work on different spindle sizes. I love it. The only thing its really missing is a quick disconnect for the jaws...but, on the flip side, Record Power jaw slides are compatible with Nova jaws, so, when I bought the Record Power, I actually didn't need to buy a whole new set of jaws. I had a bunch I'd purchased for the Nova G3 already, and every one of them works like a charm on the RP. That was a boon!

 

[Brian Gustin]

Care to share what dry lubricant you use? I tried some synthetic grease once...this was back in 2020 and my first cleaning ever. It wasn't a lot, just a little, but boy was that a mistake. Had to clean it again just a few weeks later. I've gone totally unlubricated since....but, if there is a good dry lubricant that will work without collecting dust, that would be nice, as these jaws aren't the smoothest.

I have a Record Power chuck. Its their larger sized one, and it's usually got a set of 100mm jaws on it. Its a much nicer chuck, sealed, I've never had to clean it in...I guess three years that I've had it now. It works like a charm, has alternative inserts so it can work on different spindle sizes. I love it. The only thing its really missing is a quick disconnect for the jaws...but, on the flip side, Record Power jaw slides are compatible with Nova jaws, so, when I bought the Record Power, I actually didn't need to buy a whole new set of jaws. I had a bunch I'd purchased for the Nova G3 already, and every one of them works like a charm on the RP. That was a boon!

I could recommend Lock-Ease - AGS brand , often you can find that at your local auto parts store.

Protects against sticking, rust, and freezing.
Lock-Ease makes work easier year-round by sealing
out moisture from working parts and providing maximum protection against freezing.
Rapidly penetrates, coating all lock parts.
The special carrier then evaporates, leaving a long-wearing graphite film.
After evaporation,
will not run in high temperatures and won't harden in sub-zero temperatures.
Applications include: all types of locks, household appliances, tools, guns,
reels, and other mechanisms.

 

[John K Jordan]

Care to share what dry lubricant you use? I tried some synthetic grease once...this was back in 2020 and my first cleaning ever. It wasn't a lot, just a little, but boy was that a mistake. Had to clean it again just a few weeks later. I've gone totally unlubricated since....but, if there is a good dry lubricant that will work without collecting dust, that would be nice, as these jaws aren't the smoothest.

I use this: Dupont,Teflon, Non-stick, Dry film lubricant.
It dries quickly.

But I don't know where to get it now, maybe there is something slimiar.
I wouldn't use anything with silicone.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

I'd have no hesitation using this CRC brand moly dry lube on the chuck gears, buy it at Amazon. CRC 3084 Dry Moly Lube, (Net Weight: 11 oz.) Dark Gray, Original Version https://a.co/d/6ODKLow But be very careful and gentle applying, moly can be messy. I might squirt some onto an acid brush, then paint it lightly onto the gear teeth. Molybdenum is typically used in high pressure gear teeth conditions (like vehicle drive differentials) for wear protection of those gears. And this dry lube won't attract and hold dust.

Here's what an Amazon user says about using it on his Delta Unisaw-
"A very good product, not available in most local stores
Reviewed in the United States on August 5, 2013
Size: Original VersionStyle: Dry Moly Lube

This dry moly is a superb product! it was recommended to me by a highly experienced Caterpillar diesel mechanic to lubricate machinery in a very dusty environment. In my case it was the trunnions and bearings in my Delta Unisaw that are bathed in dust every time it is used. It has worked extremely well; better than graphite or any other product that you can get at the local NAPA/hardware store/ O'Reilly, etc. Does not attract dust. Basically it consists of a dry lubricant, Molybdenum diSulfide in an acetone or other volatile matrix. So it goes on fast, the acetone evaporates leaving the lube behind. Because the matrix is volatile it can't be used in a flammable environment like around a pilot light for example - drama will ensue.
It can be messy. It sticks sort of like paint film to every surface that it comes in contact with like your hands or adjacent painted surfaces. So use it with care. But it works, it lasts and it is a darn good product."

 

[John K Jordan]

Well, in my case, it is always getting the scroll plate and the grooves on the jaw slides themselves to all line up properly. At least with my G3, I've never quite been able to just push them all teh way in, and then align the scroll plate. The slides have to be out a little bit from center, otherwise the gears will never quite mesh. But...getting all four slides to the right place....meh!!! Its an annoying process, every time.

I put the slides on the scroll plate while it's out of the chuck just to verify things. But I don't try to put all the slides into the chuck then put in the scroll plate, although, with care, that should work.
I think this way is easier. I use this method to assemble the SuperNova1 chucks which I think are similar to the G3. (see the "And remember" comment near the bottom)

Put the geared scroll plate into the chuck, make sure it turns by hand, then secure it with the snap ring.

(Use safety glasses. Spread the external snap ring with good snap-ring ​

pliers and start it on the cylinder where it needs to be. It will get stuck​

near the top. Remove the pliers and tap the snap ring gently with a ​

screwdriver, evenly, all the way around. As long as it initially got started ​

it can be pushed down in stages until it snaps into the machined groove.)​

​

Rotate the chuck until the #1 slide slot is towards me and I can see a bit inside.
As I turn the chuck key counterclockwise (in the jaw-closing direction), I see eventually see the leading edge of the scroll start to appear at the right side of that slide slot.
I back up a tiny bit, and insert the #1 slide into that slot just enough that when I turn the chuck key the scroll engages with the rear scroll grove on the bottom of the slide and starts to pull it inward.

Repeat with the #2 slide at the next slot (clockwise, from the top). Then repeat with slides #3 and #4.

As each slide is engaged, the others are pulled into the slots and they will all be in perfect alignment. If not, a slide may be out of order or initially inserted too far.
When the last slide is in place turn until all the slides are pulled to the center and verify they are correct. (If inserted correctly in the right order, they have to be - they have no choice.)
Insert and tighten the set screw into the threaded hole in the #1 or #3 slot. It prevents opening the jaws too much.

I hope this is right. I haven't done it for a few days and I am elderly and feeble minded and may have forgotten something.
And remember, I last did this with a SN1 chuck. Maybe the G3 is similar, I can't remember since I gave away all my G3 chucks to a student a few years ago and I can't examine one.
The SN2 chucks have a back plate and are different.

Any problem, grab the pieces of the chuck and take a road trip. TN is nice this time of year.

JKJ

 

[Jon Rista]

I put the slides on the scroll plate while it's out of the chuck just to verify things. But I don't try to put all the slides into the chuck then put in the scroll plate, although, with care, that should work.
I think this way is easier. I use this method to assemble the SuperNova1 chucks which I think are similar to the G3. (see the "And remember" comment near the bottom)

Put the geared scroll plate into the chuck, make sure it turns by hand, then secure it with the snap ring.

(Use safety glasses. Spread the external snap ring with good snap-ring ​

pliers and start it on the cylinder where it needs to be. It will get stuck​

near the top. Remove the pliers and tap the snap ring gently with a ​

screwdriver, evenly, all the way around. As long as it initially got started ​

it can be pushed down in stages until it snaps into the machined groove.)​

​

Rotate the chuck until the #1 slide slot is towards me and I can see a bit inside.
As I turn the chuck key counterclockwise (in the jaw-closing direction), I see eventually see the leading edge of the scroll start to appear at the right side of that slide slot.
I back up a tiny bit, and insert the #1 slide into that slot just enough that when I turn the chuck key the scroll engages with the rear scroll grove on the bottom of the slide and starts to pull it inward.

Repeat with the #2 slide at the next slot (clockwise, from the top). Then repeat with slides #3 and #4.

As each slide is engaged, the others are pulled into the slots and they will all be in perfect alignment. If not, a slide may be out of order or initially inserted too far.
When the last slide is in place turn until all the slides are pulled to the center and verify they are correct. (If inserted correctly in the right order, they have to be - they have no choice.)
Insert and tighten the set screw into the threaded hole in the #1 or #3 slot. It prevents opening the jaws too much.

I hope this is right. I haven't done it for a few days and I am elderly and feeble minded and may have forgotten something.
And remember, I last did this with a SN1 chuck. Maybe the G3 is similar, I can't remember since I gave away all my G3 chucks to a student a few years ago and I can't examine one.
The SN2 chucks have a back plate and are different.

Any problem, grab the pieces of the chuck and take a road trip. TN is nice this time of year.

JKJ

Thanks for the writeup!

I have not tried this approach. But it makes a lot of sense, and its one of those things that seems obvious once you see/hear it!

I understand what you are saying about them having to be inserted in teh right order as well. Ran into that problem before, the teeth are all a bit different on each one since they sit on a spiral. Well, this should make it easier to fully clean my chucks in the future. Sometimes, the only way to get the gunk out between the teeth is to disassemble. The Record Power chuck really does amaze me. It has a sealing cover on the bottom, unlike the Nova, so that certainly keeps some of the dust and junk out. But, I always figured dust and such would still get in from the top, through the slides and whatnot. But that chuck just keeps on working, never seems to gum up, stick or anything. I suspect it will eventually need a cleaning, but by that point in time it would likely have been through 10x as many Nova cleanings. I don't know if Nova makes a comparable chuck, but the RP is really nice.

 

[Jon Rista]

I'd have no hesitation using this CRC brand moly dry lube on the chuck gears, buy it at Amazon. CRC 3084 Dry Moly Lube, (Net Weight: 11 oz.) Dark Gray, Original Version https://a.co/d/6ODKLow But be very careful and gentle applying, moly can be messy. I might squirt some onto an acid brush, then paint it lightly onto the gear teeth. Molybdenum is typically used in high pressure gear teeth conditions (like vehicle drive differentials) for wear protection of those gears. And this dry lube won't attract and hold dust.

Here's what an Amazon user says about using it on his Delta Unisaw-
"A very good product, not available in most local stores
Reviewed in the United States on August 5, 2013
Size: Original VersionStyle: Dry Moly Lube

This dry moly is a superb product! it was recommended to me by a highly experienced Caterpillar diesel mechanic to lubricate machinery in a very dusty environment. In my case it was the trunnions and bearings in my Delta Unisaw that are bathed in dust every time it is used. It has worked extremely well; better than graphite or any other product that you can get at the local NAPA/hardware store/ O'Reilly, etc. Does not attract dust. Basically it consists of a dry lubricant, Molybdenum diSulfide in an acetone or other volatile matrix. So it goes on fast, the acetone evaporates leaving the lube behind. Because the matrix is volatile it can't be used in a flammable environment like around a pilot light for example - drama will ensue.
It can be messy. It sticks sort of like paint film to every surface that it comes in contact with like your hands or adjacent painted surfaces. So use it with care. But it works, it lasts and it is a darn good product."

I've never heard of a molybdenum dry lubricant before. So is it really creating like a plated surface over the metal? Or does it remain more of like a dry powder like graphite?

Also, curious what people mean by "it can be messy"... I keep silicon of any kind out of my shop. Someone mentioned something about it years ago, about how once it gets onto something its basically impossible to get off. I handled a piece of wood outside my shop after using a silicon based lubricant, and noticed that I left some fingerprints on the wood. Fingerprints that NOTHING seemed to be able to remove. Thankfully I was able to get it off my hands before I went back out in the shop. Are we talking "messy" like that?

 

[John K Jordan]

The Record Power chuck really does amaze me. It has a sealing cover on the bottom, unlike the Nova, so that certainly keeps some of the dust and junk out. But, I always figured dust and such would still get in from the top, through the slides and whatnot. But that chuck just keeps on working, never seems to gum up, stick or anything. I suspect it will eventually need a cleaning, but by that point in time it would likely have been through 10x as many Nova cleanings. I don't know if Nova makes a comparable chuck, but the RP is really nice.

I just found this PDF document on servicing Nova chucks, including the G3. It indicates you don't have to insert the jaws one at a time like I described but can insert all the jaws, then insert the geared scroll ring and turn it until the jaws engage. It also instructs to "apply a generous amount of lubricant" but I don't see where it indicates the type of lubricant.

https://www.teknatool.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/NOVA-Chuck-Maintenance-Guide.pdf

I haven't had Record Power chuck but it sounds similar to the Teknatool Supernova2. The SN2 has a cover on the back which keeps dust out. (I have no idea if the cover seals the same way as your Record Power chuck.) I took my first SN2 apart after using it for a long time and also found nothing to clean.

The G3 is smaller than the Supernovas and intended for smaller lathes but still work fine on larger lathes. I used them with both my larger lathes and the Jet mini by switching inserts. When I gave them to someone with a smaller lathe I simply had to change the inserts.

I have a drawer full of the original SN1 chucks, some bought used. But once I got the first SN2 I never bought another of the older version. Besides back cover, the SN2 doesn't use an open socket for the chuck key so dust can't easily get inside that way. (The SN1 is also heavier and fells sturdier.)

One of the reasons I like the SN2 is the change in the chuck key. Instead of the wobble-head gear on the older version it uses a simple hex key, basically a big allen wrench with a plastic handle. I think I understand why they thought the old wobble-head chuck key design might be useful, but I dislike it. For one thing, it's sometimes frustrating to even insert the key properly - sometimes it's easier to peek into the back of the chuck while inserting it to get it to line up properly.

The G3, of course, uses a fixed head chuck key with a non-pivoting geared head.

JKJ

 

[Bill Alston]

I agree with you John about the SN2, it’s a pretty good chuck for the money.

Edit: I found this:

 

[Jim Holcombe]

To help in the reassembly of whatever kind of chuck you have, if the jaw slides and the chuck are not marked as to which slide goes where, take the time to mark them before taking the chuck apart. Do this with a number punch, engraver, or a center punch by marking the slide and the chuck. Don’t use a Sharpie. Lots of chucks aren’t marked.

 

[John K Jordan]

To help in the reassembly of whatever kind of chuck you have, if the jaw slides and the chuck are not marked as to which slide goes where, take the time to mark them before taking the chuck apart. Do this with a number punch, engraver, or a center punch by marking the slide and the chuck. Don’t use a Sharpie. Lots of chucks aren’t marked.

I just read the marking advice in one of the Teknatool manuals for the G3. They recommended using a marker, but an engraver or something is probably better and certainly more permanent.

 

[Bill Alston]

To help in the reassembly of whatever kind of chuck you have, if the jaw slides and the chuck are not marked as to which slide goes where, take the time to mark them before taking the chuck apart. Do this with a number punch, engraver, or a center punch by marking the slide and the chuck. Don’t use a Sharpie. Lots of chucks aren’t marked.

Check out my post #18. I have several engineering chucks and the chuck bodies are not numbered. Neither is my SN2 and nor are the chuck *jaws (slides). It really makes no difference which jaw goes into which slot.

Two of my wood turning chucks do have numbers. I believe manufacturers only do this for wood turners convenience.

My manual for the SN2 makes no mention of marking the jaws. And in fact says this:



The important point is that the jaws are replaced in the chuck body in the correct order.

*My SN2 jaws are marked with dots:

 

[Jon Rista]

I just found this PDF document on servicing Nova chucks, including the G3. It indicates you don't have to insert the jaws one at a time like I described but can insert all the jaws, then insert the geared scroll ring and turn it until the jaws engage. It also instructs to "apply a generous amount of lubricant" but I don't see where it indicates the type of lubricant.

https://www.teknatool.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/NOVA-Chuck-Maintenance-Guide.pdf

I haven't had Record Power chuck but it sounds similar to the Teknatool Supernova2. The SN2 has a cover on the back which keeps dust out. (I have no idea if the cover seals the same way as your Record Power chuck.) I took my first SN2 apart after using it for a long time and also found nothing to clean.

The G3 is smaller than the Supernovas and intended for smaller lathes but still work fine on larger lathes. I used them with both my larger lathes and the Jet mini by switching inserts. When I gave them to someone with a smaller lathe I simply had to change the inserts.

I have a drawer full of the original SN1 chucks, some bought used. But once I got the first SN2 I never bought another of the older version. Besides back cover, the SN2 doesn't use an open socket for the chuck key so dust can't easily get inside that way. (The SN1 is also heavier and fells sturdier.)

One of the reasons I like the SN2 is the change in the chuck key. Instead of the wobble-head gear on the older version it uses a simple hex key, basically a big allen wrench with a plastic handle. I think I understand why they thought the old wobble-head chuck key design might be useful, but I dislike it. For one thing, it's sometimes frustrating to even insert the key properly - sometimes it's easier to peek into the back of the chuck while inserting it to get it to line up properly.

The G3, of course, uses a fixed head chuck key with a non-pivoting geared head.

JKJ

I've used grease before. I don't think I'll ever do it again. It was just a dust trap and it accumulated and packed in so much fine dust that the thing couldn't be opened or closed. I don't know why they recommend using a generous amount of lubricant...

The SN2 sounds a lot like my RP chuck. It also uses the same allen wrench tool which works really well (the RP has a ball end on the wrench, making it super easy to use), and it seems to be sealed against dust getting into the gears. Not a fan of the key for the G3. Its often a pain to get seated properly.

I mostly use the G3 on my smaller 14x20" lathe. I have a large Powermatic 3520C, which I use for my larger turnings. Lately I've mostly been making smaller things, so ive mostly been using my smaller chucks.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

I've never heard of a molybdenum dry lubricant before. So is it really creating like a plated surface over the metal? Or does it remain more of like a dry powder like graphite?

Also, curious what people mean by "it can be messy"... I keep silicon of any kind out of my shop. Someone mentioned something about it years ago, about how once it gets onto something its basically impossible to get off. I handled a piece of wood outside my shop after using a silicon based lubricant, and noticed that I left some fingerprints on the wood. Fingerprints that NOTHING seemed to be able to remove. Thankfully I was able to get it off my hands before I went back out in the shop. Are we talking "messy" like that?

I've not used the moly dry spray lube, must less on a chuck, but I previously owned a shaft drive motorcycle that required a moly additive to the rear wheel differential gear. This additive had the moly mixed into an oil base. The moly is a dark gray color, and that additive was messy stuff because of the oil component (no different from linseed oil for that matter). It got on my fingers, and because of the color, it showed everything else I touched after that time. (The oil film on my fingers would do that with or without the moly.) The spray I linked won't have that oil component (it's a dry lube), but the moly that settles on the surface of the gear mech of the chuck should stay in place on the gear teeth. And that Amazon user applied it to the trunion gears of a tablesaw, an environment about as dusty as the interior of a dust collector bag. Maybe "messy" is relative because of the high visibilty of the moly within the product containing it. I'm sure incidental contact with it can be made if using on your chuck (rags, fingers, etc.), but I don't see it being transferred to a finished piece of wood if normal precautions have been taken, just like if using any other lube of the chuck gears. Gear teeth will appreciate it, wood won't.

 

[John K Jordan]

My manual for the SN2 makes no mention of marking the jaws. And in fact says this: ... [no dedicated slot]

Some years ago they said, yes, always put them into the proper slides. Then a while back they changed their mind (and instructions)

 

[Jon Rista]

I've not used the moly dry spray lube, must less on a chuck, but I previously owned a shaft drive motorcycle that required a moly additive to the rear wheel differential gear. This additive had the moly mixed into an oil base. The moly is a dark gray color, and that additive was messy stuff because of the oil component (no different from linseed oil for that matter). It got on my fingers, and because of the color, it showed everything else I touched after that time. (The oil film on my fingers would do that with or without the moly.) The spray I linked won't have that oil component (it's a dry lube), but the moly that settles on the surface of the gear mech of the chuck should stay in place on the gear teeth. And that Amazon user applied it to the trunion gears of a tablesaw, an environment about as dusty as the interior of a dust collector bag. Maybe "messy" is relative because of the high visibilty of the moly within the product containing it. I'm sure incidental contact with it can be made if using on your chuck (rags, fingers, etc.), but I don't see it being transferred to a finished piece of wood if normal precautions have been taken, just like if using any other lube of the chuck gears. Gear teeth will appreciate it, wood won't.

Gocha. Thanks! I will probably skip the moly stuff for now. I turn a lot of small things, at high RPM...I wonder if that could result in the moly stuff getting flung out of the chuck. I figure even if its not as good, graphite would probably be better than the absolute nothing I've been using lately. And not capture gunk like the grease did the first time I cleaned the thing... Man, the grease was so bad. Fine dust turned it into a concrete like substance very quickly.