Cleaning a lathe bed

[John Torchick]

I bought a used lathe that was kept in an outside shop. The rails for the tailstock are rusted a bit. The tailstock moves without effort but I ws wondering.....should I just lube it? I'm sceptical about doing any kind of rust removal as it might mess up the tolerances. Any advice is appreciated. Before I forget, the Mrs. won't be open to buying a new lathe.😱

 

[Griesbach]

How you clean it up depends on how much rust there is. I would start with some WD40 and a scotchbright pad. That shouldn't remove enough to reduce tolerances but will give you a better idea of what you're dealing with.

 

[John Torchick]

Rust removal

Thanks for the reply. The rust isn't real bad, not the rusty red we normally see but a dark brown. Will give the WD-40 and Scotchbrite a try.

 

[john lucas]

Try multiple coats of Naval Jelly. It will remove the soft rust without abrading the metal so you shouldn't change any tolerances. I sometimes use steel wool which is very mildly abrasive but does speed up the rust removal.

 

[Steve Worcester]

T9 rust free and T9 protectant. Works real well.

 

[Don Geiger]

Ballistol Lathe bed cleaner, lubricator and protectant

Dear Fellow turners:

A few years ago I discovered Ballistol. It is not a petroleum based product instead it is mineral oil based. A few of the advantages to this product are:
It is bio-degradeable.
It emulsifies (mixes) with water.
It penetrates cast iron and permanantly bonds with trapped moisture.
It has a very low surface tension which enables it to penetrate very small spaces.
It is slightly alkaline (8.3 PH) so it neutralizes acids such as those from you hands etc.
It dissolves traces of lead, copper etc. making it excellant for cleaning weapons.

After the first time I put it on my Stubby lathe bed, I needed to slide the tail stock back out of the way (I previously was using WD 40) and it almost went off the end of the bed and on to the floor!

I now use it on all the equipment in my shop and I have no rust problems (in FL and the door is open all summer).

Don

 

[Dan Carter]

use t9 rust remover and steel wool. you could even use a power oscillating sander if need be, being careful not to gouge or remove too much. t9 protectant, wd-40, machine oil all work well after the rust has been removed, but a coat of trewax over and above the protectant makes the lathe bed nice and slick, as well as gives protection.

in the march 2004, wood magazine had a interesting article about rust busters, t9 seems to have won hands down, if you missed it, i would highly recommend it. you can download from

www.boeshieldcanada.com/wood.pdf

 

[Clifton C]

Don,
That’s my favorite goto lube, penetrating oil, protectant and cologne. It’s a veritable “miracle in a canâ€. I’m down to my last can, with only a few drops left…maybe I’ll spring for a 55 gallon drum, want to split it.🙂
cc

 

[John Torchick]

Ballistol lube

Don, that sounds like a winner! Where did you get yours?

 

[Don Geiger]

Ballistol

Hi John:

I sent you a private message regarding your interest in Ballistol.


Don

 

[MichaelMouse]

Dear Fellow turners:

A few years ago I discovered Ballistol. It is not a petroleum based product instead it is mineral oil based.

HUH?

Any oil, animal, vegetable or mineral can be blended with a surfactant to make it disperse in polar solvents like water. You do it every day in the dishwasher. Unlike acids, alkaline surfactants won't pit metal, which is why we use them to clean sawblades and other woodworking tools. Some oil-based products are extremely alkaline, like aircraft hydraulic fluid. You can get a good burn from them. They don't worry about a bit of water in the lines, though, and they keep the surfaces which MUST be smooth from pitting as well. Here the objective is an invert emulsion.

Is there anyone here who doesn't understand that the presence of rust on the bed is not a problem, other than a cosmetic one, once the cause has been removed? I don't mind a bit of discoloration, and I'm certainly not going to abrade metal in pursuit of it.

 

[Wyatt Holm]

I use steel wool, then rub some graphite powder on. That makes it real slick.