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Clamp collar on Oneway Wolverine V-arm

R

Rob Gabel

Joined
Apr 29, 2024
Messages
26
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33
Location
Beaver Dam, WI
During a demonstration it was stated that a turner the presenter knew put a clamp collar on the V-arm in the front and the back of the grinder. These were used to set the arm distance for bowl gouges and spindle gouges quickly instead of the other setup methods. Has anyone done this? If so, are you using a 1" clamp collar for this?
 
I just have lines scratched in mine, but I've thought my closest setting could have a (semi) permanent stop block. My grinding jig setup included a Roborest. When I got that set the proper distance to the wheel, I glued some wood stops onto it. It does make it very quick and easy to set.
 
I use a stick to set the distance between the pocket and face of the wheel. As long as the jig bases are the same height below the wheel center the spacer stick allows me to move the v-arm to the other wheel or another grinder regardless of the in-out location of the jig base. If you just use one wheel all the time a stop block or scribed line on the arm works well.
 
I also use 1"(?) PVC pipe. But, I just put one end in the pocket and slide it in until the the other edge butts up against the base where the arm slides into the base and lock it down. Does that make sense? No need to remove the arm or make dangerous cuts on the PVC pipe. I used to have 3 or 4 lengths but now I pretty much only use one for gouges. Being lazy ... I bought a second Varigrind jig - I set one for bowl gouges and one for spindle gouges and rarely ever have to change the arm position length.
 
I use a clamp on my bar and then insert V blocks in the oneway v block to move the wolverine jig forward to grind more acute angles. I have the V arm setting to give me a 55 degree nose. My v blocks give me 40 degrees and 35 degrees. In this video I carved a notch in the v blocks. Since then I found it easier to simply cut the blocks to different lengths fir different nose angles. I sharpen all my round spindle gouges using the Wolverine. Puts wings on the spindle gouges but dies hurt a thing.
View: https://youtu.be/Z_YRyaf46hs?si=eN4BxG-c2LLOx-Wc
 
I use a clamp block on mine for the scraper but I like the idea of the PVC so I'll give that a try for the other one. Also I bought an extra platform so I don't ever have to switch the angle between the bowl scraper and the roughing gouge.

For the bowl/spindle gouge arm I drilled a little hole and stick an Allen wrench in it to set the distance but the PVC looks more accurate for that as well.
 
Kevin Jenness said:
I use a stick to set the distance between the pocket and face of the wheel. As long as the jig bases are the same height below the wheel center the spacer stick allows me to move the v-arm to the other wheel or another grinder regardless of the in-out location of the jig base. If you just use one wheel all the time a stop block or scribed line on the arm works well.
Click to expand...

I like this approach, because you could take it anywhere. The height shouldn't matter at all, as long as your stick can set the distance away from the wheel consistently, it will be the same grind if using the same jig.
 
Darryl Fective said:
I like this approach, because you could take it anywhere. The height shouldn't matter at all, as long as your stick can set the distance away from the wheel consistently, it will be the same grind if using the same jig.
Click to expand...
If the height differs the tool will contact the wheel at a different angle.

This method works better than the stop method with ceramic wheels as they wear and change diameter.
 
Tom Gall said:
I also use 1"(?) PVC pipe. But, I just put one end in the pocket and slide it in until the the other edge butts up against the base where the arm slides into the base and lock it down. Does that make sense? No need to remove the arm or make dangerous cuts on the PVC pipe. I used to have 3 or 4 lengths but now I pretty much only use one for gouges. Being lazy ... I bought a second Varigrind jig - I set one for bowl gouges and one for spindle gouges and rarely ever have to change the arm position length.
Click to expand...
"...make dangerous cuts on the PVC pipe." What dangerous cuts? - J
 
I got tired of trying to line up the scratch marks (even when color coded) to get consistency in the arm position, so I drilled holes in the arm and bracket and made a pin with a handle to go in the holes. I still lock the arm with the red lever, but now I know the arm is in the same position each time.
 

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I use the Vector Grind Fixture on the left side of my grinder and the arm for this system replaces the V arm. This arm is locked down and never changes and all my gouges are sharpened in this position, all have the exact same grind. On the right side of my grinder is the 80 grit CBN and there sits the Robo Rest for scrapers and others.
 
Similar to others use of a spacer to set the angles, I have wooden spacers to quickly and repeatably set my 600grit wheel hanging right by it. I just freehand the grinding of the heal on my 180grit wheel on the left IMG_5729.jpeg
 
Here is a photo of my curren̈t system with one of the V blocks inserted. The stop on my zv arm came from Don Geiger. I have magnets in my V blocks abd you can see my 35 degree block stuck to the side of my grinder
 
Rob Gabel said:
During a demonstration it was stated that a turner the presenter knew put a clamp collar on the V-arm in the front and the back of the grinder. These were used to set the arm distance for bowl gouges and spindle gouges quickly instead of the other setup methods. Has anyone done this? If so, are you using a 1" clamp collar for this?
Click to expand...
To respond to your original question, I have not done, nor used a similar set up. While this setup would allow for quickly positioning the V arm in two positions, I think it would make it more of a hassle to remove the V arm to use a platform. Also, one may want to have more than two settings.
 
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