Chucks

[Turned Around]

Hello all, I'm new to the forum so let me start by saying hello. The question at hand is chuck size. I just upgraded from a midi lathe to a Powermatic 3520B and I have a Talon chuck with #3 jaws and it seems to hold everything I've turned so far but I have acquired a few large cherry, elm, and ash blanks. Large enough I'm questioning the gripping power of the Talon and the #3 jaws that I currently have. I am thinking about upgrading to a 41/2 or 5 inch chuck, I have done some research on the Stronghold, Vicmac and even the Titan and they all look like very good chuck but which is the best bang for the buck. Any pros and cons, advantages and disadvantages any complaints from owners of any of the three listed above would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Bob Chapman]

I once heard another turner complaining about the chuck he had (forgotten what make) because the scroll at the back was open to the elements and collected dust and debris making it more difficult to operate. Perhaps this is something to look out for, but I've no first-hand experience.

I've used the Vicmarc chucks, both large and small, for several years without problems.

Bob

 

[pfduffy]

Having turned with a PM 3520 for several years and used Nova chucks, I will offer these thoughts. When turning large ruff blanks, use a face plate and screw it on with big screws-- I use the biggest I can fit thru the holes. When you turn a blank, go slow and easy. This is where a lot of guys get hurt, and make sure your banjo and tool rest are clear and tight. After the outside is smooth, use an adapter so you can move the blank to your chuck without losing the center of balance. Always use the tail stock! On small blanks, under 10 in I will use a screw-plate on the headstock and the live center in the tailstock as well. Just be careful and think about safety first. Have fun turning but be careful out there! Phil

 

[MichaelMouse]

Get whichever will handle the jaws you have and keep the options open. Having two chucks (or more) will slow the jaw fiddle and chase, maximizing the turning time.

The risk management lawyers at the the manufacturers generate the dimensions and speeds printed on the box. You can be smart and realize that the faster you turn and the less secondary support you have ( use the tailstock!!! ) the more accurate these become.

As to open or not. No free lunch. Compressed air will reach inside the closed ones too, but your old toothbrush won't.

 

[Jake Debski]

You've gotten some good advice. I only wish to add, your Tallon Jaws will not fit the Stronghold. So your options are open to what you want to spend. Any of the name brand chucks you mentioned(I don't know enough about the Titian though) will serve you well. Some may require a little more care than others, mostly with just an air hose, but that does not limit their effectiveness in holding power. As already well pointed out, use your tailstock as long as possible.

 

[john lucas]

I have a 2035A and have turned to the maximum capacity with the vicmarc 100 which is the same size as your chuck. These were bowls. If I was turning very large or long hollow vessels I would either go with a bigger chuck or even better and safer a faceplate.

 

[John Van Domelen]

Upgrade

I am going to be upgrading to the Powermatic soon as well. All the chucks I have now are 1x8, the PM is a different thread.

My question is - are the thread adapters being sold safe to use?

Any drawbacks?

I have 5 or 6 chucks and would rather not replace them if at all possible.

 

[Mark Wollschlager]

I am going to be upgrading to the Powermatic soon as well. All the chucks I have now are 1x8, the PM is a different thread.

My question is - are the thread adapters being sold safe to use?

Any drawbacks?

I have 5 or 6 chucks and would rather not replace them if at all possible.

If you have Oneway chucks and have no need for 1x8 , replace the taper lock adapter. It's not too expensive. If you still use 1x8 a 1 1/4 => 1 spindle adapter works ok but adds a couple of inches and potentially some wobble.
Penn state has a good one for about $20. The taper lock is about $22.
I just noticed something on the Oneway web site called a Versa-Mount Chuck Adaptor. Have never seen one but it claims to ease swapping chucks between different spindle threads.
Perhaps I will see one in Portland.

 

[Steve Worcester]

I am going to be upgrading to the Powermatic soon as well. All the chucks I have now are 1x8, the PM is a different thread.

My question is - are the thread adapters being sold safe to use?

Any drawbacks?

I have 5 or 6 chucks and would rather not replace them if at all possible.

OK, we have two different things going here. But to answer your question, IF your chuck does not support putting in a different threaded insert (like a Stronghold) i.e., the chuck body is threaded, you can use an adapter. The huge downsides to an adapter is that they may be slightly off and cause a bit of misalignmebt, and they move the chuck and the work (the mass) that much further away from the headstock/bearings/support.
Depending on the chuck you have, keep it for use with the old lathe, sell it with the old lathe, or sell it by itself.

 

[Steve Worcester]

You may be able to get a new insert to use the Talon on the new lathe. I would then use the Talon for smaller items on the bigger lathe.
As far as larger chucks there are a bunch of quality products out there. Personally I have been a Stronghold fan for years. I now own 5. They are easy to use, easy to work on and there is a good assortment of jaws available for them. Why 5 you say, I hate switching jaws and I can put them on my metal lathe too with a different insert.

 

[KEW]

I am going to be upgrading to the Powermatic soon as well. All the chucks I have now are 1x8, the PM is a different thread.

My question is - are the thread adapters being sold safe to use?
********For normal use, yes.

Any drawbacks?
********Increased run-out (from an extra thread-match, machining tolerances, and the increased distance from the bearings which align your spindle). Not too bad for most adapters, but of the 3 I've used, one had excessive run-out.

I have 5 or 6 chucks and would rather not replace them if at all possible.
********You do not mention the specific chuck you are using. Since these chucks do not have inserts to adapt to the 1-1/4 spindle size (which is the most common standard among high quality lathes) they may not be designed for the larger projects your new lathe can handle. You'll probably want to consider buying a heavier chuck as you progress to larger projects.

Cheers,
Kurt

 

[Brodie Brickey]

If you have multiple chucks that don't support threaded inserts, I seriously recommend selling them over the next couple months and picking up 1-3 more serious chucks. Either Oneway or Nova. If you stay with a particular brand and size then any jaws you purchase will be interchangable.

 

[NBHowe]

Chuck

I used a Nova Scroll chuck when I started turning, when my lathe and skills outgrow that I got the Nova Titan as the jaws I already had wood fit it.
I use it all the time for big and small turnings, just change the jaws.
I use the 4" Bowl jaws for most of my work. Just finished two 21"dia N/E bowls from a Elm Crotch and the Titan held them just fine.
I can't say about other chucks cos I've not used them. But I am very happy with the Titan.
When I have the cash I plan to bye more chucks so I don't have to keep changeing the */"#!*# jaws. Most likely another Titan.
Nigel

 

[williamwestbrook51]

I have been using a spindle adapter for years.
I think that if quilty is a concern you might take a look at Bestwoodtools.com.
They make a fairly substantial adapter.
This will make all the face plates and chucks you have been using and adapt right over to the new lathe.
One of the other benefits of a spindle adapter will be a greater gap between your work and the headstock on your new 3520B Powermatic. This has been one of the very minor problems with the massive sliding headstock on the 3520B.
Good luck on your decision.
Enjoy your new lathe.

Kendall

 

[woodwish]

Comparing any of the major brands is like comparing Chevey vs. Ford vs. Dodge trucks, it's basically just a matter of personal preference. Personally I love my VicMarcs but I have use several other brands at times on other folks lathes. They all are about the same except the el-cheapo knockoffs on the market. You basically get what you pay for it seems.

All my Vicmarcs use threaded inserts so when I upsized my lathe I just bought new inserts. No need for adaptors.

And since I was the one that brought it up - if I need to take my Vicmarc chucks somewhere they ride in my Ford F-150, so let the Ford jokes begin! 🙂

 

[Turned Around]

Fellas thanks for all the feed back. Let me start by saying the Talon I have I did in fact swap out the insert to 1 1/4 X 8 TPI to match the Powermatic spindle. I had two other small Nova chucks with my old lathe that did not have inserts so I sold them when I sold my lathe as a package deal. I really like the Oneway I have now and I'm really considering buying the Stronghold, I know the jaws will not interchange with the Talon I have but I think what ever chuck I buy I'm sure eventually I will get an assortment of jaws for it. The only down side to the Stronghold is it is the smallest of the three chuck listed. (Stronghold 4.5†Titan 5.0†and the Vicmac 5.5â€Â) and that kinda worries me. I guess if I’m going to spend that much money I want the biggest, strongest chuck in that price range, cause when it’s all said and done they are all around the $300.00 dollar mark. 😱

 

[pencheff]

The only down side to the Stronghold is it is the smallest of the three chuck listed. (Stronghold 4.5†Titan 5.0†and the Vicmac 5.5â€Â) and that kinda worries me.

Here's something to ponder. I just finished coring several 14" diameter x 8" thick red oak blanks with a McNaughton Center Saver on my Jet 1642. The coring was done while mounted on a Oneway Talon with the #3 jaw set, in compression mode in a 1/2" deep mortise. I didn't have a problem. And the process of coring is considerably more stressful on the chuck and it's grip on the workpiece than regular turning is.

If you're not going to jump right into spinning up 20" blanks you may not need to upgrade quite yet. The Talon is a very rugged little chuck.

 

[Jake Debski]

Here's something to ponder. I just finished coring several 14" diameter x 8" thick red oak blanks with a McNaughton Center Saver on my Jet 1642. The coring was done while mounted on a Oneway Talon with the #3 jaw set, in compression mode in a 1/2" deep mortise. I didn't have a problem. And the process of coring is considerably more stressful on the chuck and it's grip on the workpiece than regular turning is.

If you're not going to jump right into spinning up 20" blanks you may not need to upgrade quite yet. The Talon is a very rugged little chuck.

The surface area of the #3's is the key in either direction. The jaws when kept in a nearly completely closed(very little gap between the 4 sections) have tremendous holding capability. For myself I would still prefer a larger chuck to do that type of work. I have pushed the limits of my Talons many times with success but am much more confident when using the Stronghold for larger pieces. The tailstock still is used whenever possible with both sized chucks.

 

[waltben]

Chuck wars

I really can't remember why I chose my first chuck, an older Super Nova, but now also have a Nova mini-midi (tommy bar type) and a Titan, and almost all the jaws Technitool makes. The only really different thing about the Technitool line is that all those jaws (save the big Titan ones) can be put on any of the three chucks. Other than that, the Titan isn't as big as my latest, a Vicmarc 120. I picked up that monster because Vicmarc has the best 'Cole' jaws and in three different sizes (large, extra large and humongous!).

One comment on open back vs. closed. My old Super Nova is open, has been used very heavily for over five years, and I've never had to take it apart to clean anything - just blow it out with my air compressor occasionally. My Titan does have a closed back and I've had to take off the big clip and remove the back twice in two + years to clean it out - somewhat of a pain (one time the clip flew across my garage into never-never land). I'd actually prefer it with an open back if it were possible.