Most important chuck, in my opinion, is the pin chuck. With one available, any blank mounts with a hole bored to the proper depth. Reverse to your favorite flavor to hollow - mine are Novas - but leave the pillar with the hole in it in the middle so that you can take the dry blank, punch the hole circular, and mount the thing again to begin finishing the same way you did the roughing - between centers. bestwoodtools.com will make them for you if you don't have a local source. You have to call and ask.
I'm also an "innie" fan for reversal, using the smooth dovetail jaws as the wedged tenon they are to hold my piece without a "foot" or with, at my discretion, but always without sacrificing more than a 1/4" of depth to the hold method rather than an entire tenon length. The between-centers method of turning makes that possible with stock up to the 15 3/4 maximum size on my lathe. Since you can trim out and sand an innie on a dry piece prior to reversing to hollow, you may save even more time and fuss on that part of the turning.
External holds with smooth dovetails are also advantageous, because they are self-bottoming, non-destructive, and more friendly on wet wood than serrated types. With the load distributed evenly and the shape of the tenon intact, they can also be finished quickly as "feet" on final turning.
The dovetail preference is what keeps me away from chucks with jaws featuring corners and ribs to dig in and advertising "grip strength" as if it were an asset. Anything over the resistance of the wood to distortion is excess. Look for available jaws with broad faces to distribute the load and increase leverage against the bottom of a mortise or the shoulder of a tenon as you shop.