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Chainsaw Truth or Fluke

MichaelMouse

MichaelMouse

Joined
May 16, 2005
Messages
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OK, it's been a couple of years, and I do buck up about ten full cords a year into 20 inch face cords, so I got a new chain. As usual, one side was filed back more than the other. Sixteenth, maybe a touch more, but consistent. They guy who made up the new chain said it always happens that way. I thought it was just me, being strongly right-handed. Always been that way with me, is it really pretty much the same for you, as well? I try to be consistent, but it just ends up that way.

Can't say I took a stone with this last chain, which sometimes happens, so does anyone have a clue?
 
Have seen that as a common mistake made by fumble-thumbed sharpeners because they don't check the geometry of their grinder when switching between cutter sets. Can be caused by a cheap or maladjusted grinder or an unevenly worn wheel. Can't say as I seen it on factory-new chain, however. On smaller saws bucking firewood it wouldn't show much, but will increase vibration. Put that uneven draw on a 28" or better and you'll be cutting curves.

I have a Tecomec grinder which is very accurate, but I still mic the first set's grind and then sneak up on that same dimension when I switch sides so the chain runs balanced. Saves a lot of wear on the bars as well.

m
 
It happens a lot. I never use a gauge or a guide; just a bare file with a good handle. I like to use a pickup tailgate and jam the bar tip in the corner by the taillight and file with the right hand and then switch to the other end of the tailgate and use the left hand. To compensate for unevenness, take more strokes with the left hand. It should stay pretty even. You can tell it's sharp when you very lightly run your fingertip toward you along the top of the tooth and it tends to snag. And keep those rakers down.
Hold the file level (or very slightly angling upward) and with your other hand holding the file tip give it a slow twist as you stroke and use some pressure on the tooth.
Another good tip is to never wipe the file off with a rag or anything. The shavings will get imbedded into it and shorten its life. Just tap it a little on something when you're done.
Also, if you've been sawing a lot, take the air cleaner apart and pour some gasoline through it now and then. Tap it on something but don't wipe it with anything! It tends to plug up pretty fast sometimes and the saw will run better if it's kept clean.
Some saws also have a bar with a sprocket in the tip. I've found that if you start greasing it you must keep greasing it, but if you never grease it, it will last just as long if not longer than the greased one.
 
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I use the HF chainsaw grinder and mine works well enough that I get about 4 or 5 good sharpenings on my locust/driftwood chains and 8 to 10 touchups on my other chains before i go buy new ones from bailey's. I probably could get a few more sharpenings at the local saw store out of the chains but it is cheaper to buy a new one. $12 to sharpen 14 or 16 and $15 for 18 to 24 as opposed with the most expensive new chain being for any of my 3 saws being $13
 
All the new chains I purchased have been symmetrical. Most were the Oregon brand. Once I took a couple chains into the local sharpener. They must have assigned it to a dimwit (literally). The teeth were cut back to 1/2 of the original size. Heck at that rate, you could only sharpen it twice.

Now I use the HF bench sharpener, and am careful during measurement and setup. But so far this year have not used the chainsaw until today.
 
I've never sharpened before but badly need to now. We've usually just bought new chains each time. Anyone have a favorite sharpening site and bit for a dremel?(could just use a file though)
 
pyrocasto said:
I've never sharpened before but badly need to now. We've usually just bought new chains each time. Anyone have a favorite sharpening site and bit for a dremel?(could just use a file though)
Click to expand...

try bailey's you can most likely buy a chain cheaper than you can have someone sharpen it.
 
I have never power sharpened. Perhaps it's time to try. Rather think it's the right-handedness that causes me to get the teeth on one side shorter, which means there's an easy solution in taking a couple more strokes on the clumsy side. Still, when I put in the new chain I joined the bar, and the burr was equal on both sides, so they're not pulling. Learned to sharpen freehand in the woods and use the jig at home, same as the piececutters. You go with what works until it doesn't, I guess. Now I have to find someone who uses power to teach this dog a new trick.

New chain cuts nice, but it'll be tighten every filling for a week or so until the stretch is over. It's one of those semi-safety chains where you can't file the rakers all the way off like the boys in the woods do. Makes for some aggressive cutting, that's for sure.
 
I'm the proud owner of a Dremel Portable with Lithium Battery!

Gotta say I love the little bugger. It will run at full tilt for about an hour on one charge, weights approx 8 oz., and fits in my saw case with my Husque. I free hand it with the little cylindrical chainsaw bits. Had to sharpen 4 times today due to my tendancy to attempt cutting dirt and just kept the Dremel handy. Takes 2-3 minutes per sharpen.

I'm running a 16" bar so I don't worry too much about keeping things exact. Some chains, however, come with a reference mark on the teeth that lets you keep a pretty accurate angle. When I find my cuts wandering, it's time for a new bar rather than a new chain on that little saw.

Dietrich
 
Does that little Dremel have a depth guide for chain saw blades?
I find it too easy for the grinding stone to either jump over the tooth's top or undercut it too much, without a guide--depending on which side you're on.
Last year I bought the little Oregon 12 volt sharpener, and like it a lot. I was using a file with clamp-on guide which really didn't make it any easier. The Oregon doesn't need any setup, just hook it up and use it (after setting the guide, of course).
 
kengrunke said:
......Last year I bought the little Oregon 12 volt sharpener, and like it a lot. I was using a file with clamp-on guide which really didn't make it any easier. The Oregon doesn't need any setup, just hook it up and use it (after setting the guide, of course).
Click to expand...
Ken,
I did a google search using Oregon 12 volt sharpener as a search argument and found at least 3 different items with a very wide price range. Is the one you have one of these ---
This one
This one or
This one

Thanks,
Gary
 
chain saw

pyrocasto said:
I've never sharpened before but badly need to now. We've usually just bought new chains each time. Anyone have a favorite sharpening site and bit for a dremel?(could just use a file though)
Click to expand...
Yup...just go to your local ACE hardware....they sell a neat little jig kit for your Dremel, and replacement stones. The kit cost me about $10. The replacement stones are about $2.50 each. I used to pay $7 to have my 18" chain sharpened at a shop.....now I can do about 4-5 chains for $2.50 or so. I sharpen with a hand file 3-4 times, then use the grinder GENTLY once. Be careful!!! You can eat up a chain FAST by being too agressive!!!!
 
I bought some of the chainsaw grinder stones from walmart for dremel tools. I couldnt find my dremel though so I used a cordless drill on high speed. Must say it is SO much nicer to cut with a sharp chain, and be able to quicky touch it up right there on the spot.

After today I bottomed out my '99 Ranger with wood. 😀
 
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