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Chain saw table

Robert Feingold

Robert Feingold

Joined
Jun 14, 2011
Messages
119
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64
Location
Brooklyn, NY
Does anyone have a plan or photo of a "table" used for preparing a piece of wood for the lathe. After i cut the log to short lengths on the ground I find it awkward and very uncomfortable and potentially dangerous to cut log in half and cut the corners on the ground or propped up on other logs. I don't have a band saw or room for it at my home shop.
Thanks,
Rob
 
The most effective stand I have come across is a log section with a notch cut in it.

I use a larger log section 20-24 inches in diameter cut 18-24 inches long. Stand it on end then cut a notch in the end.

This is great for holding long section for ripping. Also holds a half log section round side down for cutting off the corners with the chain saw.
The best feature of this stand is that it there is nothing metal to hit with the saw.
Heavy log section can be rolled and flipped onto the sland.

Al
 
Log Processing Center

Robert....Our Minnesota Woodturners Association club recently had a project making "LPC's" for our members to purchase at cost. We made 30 units and our members paid $30 each -- which included all the self tapping screws and complete assembly instructions. The LPC "safely holds" any size log so that the chain saw can both cut the log across the grain to length and then longitudinally, cutting the log in half. It eliminates the inefficient struggle of trying to cut the log in half down through the end grain.

Go to our Minnesota Woodturner's website at: www.mnwoodturners.com/newsletters and find the October 2010 newsletter.
On page 8 you will see a brief article we submitted, describing our Log Processing Center. There are several pictures so you can see how it works.
It is a variation of one that Emmett Manley of Lakeland, Tennessee originally designed, built and described in the June 2010 AAW magazine. Our version has a few improvements that allow for a wider range of varying sized logs for processing bowl blanks safely. (Emmett has since advised me that he has incorporated these improved features into his LPC.)

The reason the device works so well is that when cutting the log in half, as the chain saw bar passes through the center of the log, the kerf behind the bar begins to close, keeping the chain saw from binding as it finishes the cut.
In addition, the saw drops free of the log into the gap between the vertical side boards so the saw never hits the ground or other wood as it finishes.
Our club members all love their LPC's!

If you email me your postal mailing address I will send you a set of assembly instructions for our LPC and a sketch of an optional trim shelf which allows the cut bowl blank to be positioned securely in a simple pop up cradle for trimming the blank's corners at 45 degrees with the chain saw.

Happy Trails,

Lee Tourtelotte
Minnesota Woodturners Association

email: leetourtelotte@msn.com
 
Ellsworth chainsaw table

Here is a few pictures of the chainsaw table used by David Ellsworth. A simple yet very functional design. One side has angle boards to hold a round log while cutting, while the other a small flat table to hold the cut log to knock off the corners.

Rick D
 

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I built one very similar to Ellsworth only I made mine a little lower profile. I used 4x4's for the legs, 2x4's for bottom braces and 2x6's for the angle rests.
Important thing is to give yourself clearance between the V's so saw can clear with your final cut.
I use this to cut up yard waste along with my collected logs and I wanted it to be stable to be used out in the yard. It is a little heavy but very stable on the ground.

Note; I do use this with an electric chain saw I feel more comfortable with this.
 
Problem with tables is you have to lift the pieces up to them. I'd rather roll onto a 6-8" thick round with a notch and a couple of wedges to steady. I then slab the place where the bottom will be before running the middle. One knee for the rip, which I accomplish by walking (seesawing) the bar. Keeps the kerf from closing and ejects shavings so I can keep the chain speed high.

After that, up onto a higher platform perhaps, though none of the designs shown are any help in roughing to ready for mount. One presumes they have bandsaws.

Nice log dog will hold the blank to the slab you cut if you don't care to weight it or step on it. You can take the corners off and undercut the endgrain on one end, rotate, and re-dog. No need for a table with a 20-inch bar. http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/Log-Dog-Hand-Forged-with-Hardened-Tips/productinfo/391-4880/ For traditional.

http://www.loghelp.com/p-1693-log-dogs-straight.aspx for good enough for what you need.

Guy with a couple pieces of angle and a good hacksaw and file could imitate two ends like these and do as well. http://www.lumbersmith.com/docs_pdf/LogCradleInstallationandUse.pdf
 
If it is too big to lift, I cut it on the ground, with several inches of shavings built up. Other than that, just an end grain round about 18 or so inches high. there are always corner cut offs around to prop it up in place. The flat makes a table for cutting the corners off as well. Actually, most of the time, I just cut in half, and then take into the big bandsaw.

robo hippy
 
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