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Carnauba and fingerprints

Mike R. Phillips said:
I have a bowl that is finished with a danish oil and needs some wax protection.

Does buffing with Carnauba provide moisture protection without the fingerprint problem?
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Mike:

I've never seen a perfect solution for the "fingerprint problem", but I buff with carnauba wax routinely (Beall system) and I have far less problems with this wax than I did with any form of "paste wax" (like Johnson's Furniture/Floor Wax, for example) that I used when I started turning again 17+ years ago. Renaissance Wax ("microcrystalline" wax) also does a pretty good job in reducing problems associated with fingerprints and handling pieces, particularly on glossy pieces (I use mostly sprayed lacquer on my pieces). No wax finish will provide complete "moisture protection" compared to surface film finishes (e.g. polyurethane, lacquer, epoxy), especially over "drying-oil" finishes like linseed or tung oil (...which can be components of 'danish oil'). What level of moisture protection are you attempting to achieve?

Rob Wallace
 
Mike R. Phillips said:
I have a bowl that is finished with a danish oil and needs some wax protection.

Does buffing with Carnauba provide moisture protection without the fingerprint problem?
Click to expand...

I don't quite understand why you think wax would protect anything. A harder wax will have less possibility of having fingerprints left when handled, but the danish oil finish won't leave any. Wax is much less water proof than danish or antique oil, but either tung oil or poly is completely water proof and fingerprint proof.

I typically sand to 1200 or even 1600 grit and then use tung oil (50/50 Waterlox Original and natural), ending up with a gloss finish that isn't shiny, is water and fingerprint proof.
 
I generally don't wax bowls. I either use Antique Oil or Mahoney's walnut oil. As Walt said wax is not a waterproof finish. Renaissance Wax won't leave finger prints or water spots. I only use it on decorative pieces but never on bowls.
 
Carnauba is the hardest wax, but any wax, provides no water protection. And worse, water will cause issues like ghosts and rings, but no fingerprints.
Ideally, if the poly dries hard, sand it from 600-1200/1500 and white diamond. Nice and shiny and will stay that way for a long time as long as no one cuts through the surface.
 
Steve Worcester said:
Ideally, if the poly dries hard, sand it from 600-1200/1500 and white diamond. Nice and shiny and will stay that way for a long time as long as no one cuts through the surface.
Click to expand...

Advice good for high-test poly finishes, not so good for the wipe-ons. Their coats are generally too thin to do anything more than buff, if you want to dull them a bit. Very easy to cut through a thin spot and find yourself with a shadow that won't go away. Only answer is to solvent off the buffing grease/wax, tooth, and re-coat.
 
MichaelMouse said:
Advice good for high-test poly finishes, not so good for the wipe-ons. Their coats are generally too thin to do anything more than buff, if you want to dull them a bit. Very easy to cut through a thin spot and find yourself with a shadow that won't go away. Only answer is to solvent off the buffing grease/wax, tooth, and re-coat.
Click to expand...

Yep, true. Something like Behlens salad bowl finish reacts this way. That is why I need to wipe on, wipe on, sand a bit, repeat (say 5-6 times) then buff. Never can get an off the pad finish on this and need to sand (level) and buff it.
 
My solution works, I believe

I use various finishes in the oil and lacquer families. All require effort mentioned by Steve. I wax every piece-well almost all. I use a car wax. NO finger print problem: Mequires "Mirror Glaze" 26, called a "professional yellow wax. I use the paste form. Buff w/Beall system on seperate dedicated motor.
 
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I haven't tried car wax. I have @ half a can of old Blue Coral wax that GM sold for years. That, and orginal Simonize, took real armpower to use. I doubt that either is available now. I'll give the Blue Coral a try.

When I wax I use Renaissance Wax for the final coat.

Lately I've ben using Mineral Oil on some small pieces. Seems to work as well as walnut oil.
 
Over time any wax will absorb moisture and dull the finish. I recall David Ellsworth telling of a visit to a museum and observing one of his pieces he waxed in the past. It was dull and lifeless---he said he never used wax again.
 
Mike R. Phillips said:
Thank you all for your discussion.

This is a large display piece in the middle of the entry-hall and was described as having used a danish oil finish.

Either the house-cleaner or the cat have caused the tiny moisture droplet marks so I am exploring methods to prevent or reduce the risk of future damage.
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This is why I use wipe-on finishes, so an owner can repair them easily. Get a non-scratch kind of kitchen cleaning pad and run it over the entire bowl, especially those spots, until they aren't that easy to see. You can then put a new coat of danish, antique, salad bowl, walnut, or tung oil over it - wipe on, wait, wipe off - and it should look like new. Again, I prefer tung oil as it won't get those spots very easily. You can find many of these finishes at Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, Woodcraft or online.
 
finish "dulling"

Almost any finish will dull over time-exception is the poly or epoxy types. Any wax will fade, dull. Furniture finishes almost all require maint., if one wants a 'shine' appearance.
I have experienced a complaint which I finally learned involved putting a bowl in the dishwasher! Point being that once a piece is sold, given away, etc., the finish will not endure neglect, abuses,etc. I prefer oil finishes in the belief they will best stand use and abuse--but shine sells best & sensuous feel attracts --so most of my stuff gets wax to enhance the shine & feel.
 
Royce Wallace said:
Almost any finish will dull over time-exception is the poly or epoxy types. Any wax will fade, dull. Furniture finishes almost all require maint., if one wants a 'shine' appearance.
I have experienced a complaint which I finally learned involved putting a bowl in the dishwasher! Point being that once a piece is sold, given away, etc., the finish will not endure neglect, abuses,etc. I prefer oil finishes in the belief they will best stand use and abuse--but shine sells best & sensuous feel attracts --so most of my stuff gets wax to enhance the shine & feel.
Click to expand...

Royce, if your finishes are not dishwasher safe, I think you need to polish your finishing technique.
 
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