This is your best bet. If you are hoping to turn symmetrical vessels, you’d be wise to rough turn pretty immediately to speed up the drying process and then do your final turn several months later, once dry enough to be stable.I've never seen a burl dry crack free. I turn 90% of mine in the green stage.
It’s an oak treeWhat kind of tree is it?
I currently have it in a vacuum chamber to pull the moisture out. It’s going to be a long processAre you planning to kiln dry? If not, you’ll need to start milling and sealing right away. Since there’s not really an end grain side for most burls, there’s a still a pretty good chance it’ll split if you air dry it. The only times I’ve seen a burl escape air dry un-checked is when it’s been left to season for years before being milled or if there are large voids to help mitigate tension disparities during shrinkage. Good luck!
Carl, please take the advise of others and rough turn it first. It's going to crack in ways you don't want it to vacuum drying.I currently have it in a vacuum chamber to pull the moisture out. It’s going to be a long process
Thanks Darryl, I tried to reach him privately but could not find him. I could not "advertise" my event here so thanks for listing my demo. That will cover just what he is asking, for 2 1/2 hours, live and interactive. And I have a different take on it than most of the people replying here.Carl, your timing may be just right for this one:
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