Buffing systems

[DennisM]

Would like to hear the community's thoughts on buffing systems. Pretty clear that people are attracted to things that "shine". It seems like a buffing system would go a long way to achieve shine on various objects. Pro's and con's would be appreciated.

In a perfect world, one would have a dedicated buffing station with a long spindled motor on a stable stand with three shafts - one for each grade of polishing compound/wax.

Since I don't live in a perfect world and I have never seen a three shafted motor, I would appreciate hearing --- and seeing-- others solutions to buffing.

Many thanks

 

[Griesbach]

Dennis,

I'm using the Beal system on my lathe with the #2MT mandrel from Craft Supplies. I have both the 2" and 3" buffs for the three compounds. So far I'm happy with the system but at times I wish I had a longer mandrel so as to be farther from the headstock. I also have a #2 MT mandrel for using buffing wheels but haven't used it as much as the Beal system.

 

[john lucas]

I have the Beal and love it. The best thing I did was buy the Don Pencil extender that fits on the threaded spindle of the lathe. This gets the work away from the lathe so you have room to work. I like this system so much I've bought all sizes of buffing wheels. Whenever I see a good sale on some that I don't have I pick them up. I even bought the small ones from Dremel. They are fantastic for getting into carved areas.
I'm like you I would love to have the space to set up 3 motors with the buffs already installed but since I turn so many different projects and use all sizes of wheels this still wouldn't be all that practical for me.

 

[Jake Debski]

Dennis,

I don't recall the brand name but Rockler is one source. The system consists of a mandrel, threaded to match your spindle, the buffing wheels also have a threaded center stud that spin on to the mandrel. The mandrel comes in at least two different lengths, 3-1/2 and 8 inches respectively. I have both but usually use the larger because it gives me more working room around the headstock. The wheels come in separate plastic bags with the proper wax bar. Each wheel is marked, tripoly, white diamond,etc. I've never had the opportunity to use the Beal system but it's the most mentioned when asked about buffing. Another thought, in my opinion a buffed finish seems more "lustorus" than "shiny." I'm sure that statement could be considered a hair splitter. 😱 Shiny is something you get from several coats of gloss poly. 😀

 

[Tom Lewis]

I made a mandrel out of all-thread. I have a three jaw chuck that fits my lathe and I use a revolving center in the tailstock. The longer you make the mandrel the larger diameter the all-thread should be.

 

[dkulze]

Hey Dennis,

Yup, till you try it, you don't know what you're missing. Buffing systems are actually really nice for a variety of uses.

I actually went cheapskate and made my own three wheel system. Got a bunch of 100% cotton sheet material on the cheap, folded it into blocks, punched and bolted it, then mounted it up on my drillpress and cut it round while spinning. Was fun to do but would have been much easier and not really that much more expensive to have bought the Beall system.

I use my drill press when buffing because I can extend it and buff large items without bumping against anything.

I've found that you can go for a range of "shiny" by skipping the White Diamond, using the carnuba extremely lightly, or following the buff with past wax instead of carnuba then buffing with the EEE wheel again. I've also found that the buffing system works very well to remove scratches from my facemasks. Just scrape clean, sand any deep scratches with 600grit, and then buff out heavilly with EEE.

Dietrich

 

[Jeff Schutzman]

Buffing Setup

The three wheel buffs are excellent. I have been using them for a couple of years and wouldn't give them up for anything. Last year I also purchased a set of bowl buffs. These are shaped kind of like mushrooms and allow you to get inside the bowls. Getting inside small or medium sized bowls is going to be a problem when using the 8 inch wheels.

As was mentioned, you can get varying levels of gloss by varying the time and pressure on each of the three wheels. But IMHO the biggest advantages to using the buffing systems is that you can create a shine by applying what in the end turns out to be a very thin layer of finish and still preserve a great degree of texture. Once you apply a finish like a poly the texture of the piece is one that I don't really care for, but that is entirely personal preference and others feel exactly the opposite.

Jeff

 

[gran]

Grizzly has a fairly cheap buffer at http://www.grizzly.com/products/H4380

It still has the problem of needing 3 shafts 😀

 

[DennisM]

Thanks to all

I appreciate the comments from all. As I read the comments and did I little more thinking about a buffing system, I came across this video http://www.woodcraft.com/videos.aspx?videoid=3 in which Mr. Bealle demonstrated his system. I guess what slows me down is a hesitation to put one more machine in my shop. Thought I had enough room until I discovered the slippery slope of turning two years ago. Now the shop had to move over for a lathing station.

From the video, I get the sense that the "best" way to have the system is as a free standing, dedicated motor and stand. While I could run the system off the lathe, that's one more "change over" when I want to use the system.

So let me ask the question this way -
If you could do it again, would you hold out for a dedicated buffing station, or is it OK to power the buffing system with the lathe?

 

[Dave Peebles]

Hi Dennis,

I don't know if a dedicated system is the best or not, but that is what I did. I didn't buy a stand alone system though. I had a motor laying around and bought a ball bearing mandrel from Woodcraft. A bit of head scratching and I was in business. 🙂 I still use the wax wheel on the lathe, but may commit my old bowl lathe to that duty in the near future. I also do not like tying up the main lathe with the buffing system.

http://www.bowlturner.com/MVC-007F.JPG

Best wishes,
Dave

 

[Richard Baker]

What kinds of finishes do y'all buff? Apparently polyurethane is one of them. What are some others?

 

[Jeff Schutzman]

Finishes for buffing

I have a preference for oil and wax based finishes. Sometimes no oil and only wax. I have had great results with full strength tung oil and walnut oil. I use either carnuba or bees wax. I have also used some commercially made wax combinations, some made for wood turners others are general purpose. My standard has become 3 to 6 applications 50% Tung Oil and Mineral Spirits followed by 1 or 2 100% tung oil applications, followed by buffing in of carnuba wax.

One combination I have had great results with is Butchers Boston Polish followed by a couple of Carnuba buffings. This product was originally developed in the 1800s for parquet floors so it has to be pretty tough. The product is available in just about every hardware store I have been in the Northeast US, and probably other places as well. Very inexpensive compared to other finishes, dries hard and is easy to freshen up with a soft cloth.

Jeff

 

[Mark Ost]

Buffing system

I want to emphasize Tom Lewis's comment about the use of a threaded rod to mount the buffing wheels, IE the longer the rod, increase the rod diameter. I mounted three buffing wheels on a 5/8 x 16" threaded rod, mounting the drive end in my four jaw pin Vicmark.and the other end loosly (another mistake) into a revolving tail stock. It worked well a few times, until I turned on the lathe at too fast a speed,about 1000 rpm by estimate. When I pushed the bowl onto the buffing wheel closest to the tail stock, that end dislodged and whipped at about a 30 degree angle, catching my wrist with the rough end. Fortunately, I fell back and got only a bruise and superficial scrape to show for my stupidity. It scared the beegeebers out of me. I gave up the approach in favor of a MT2 mandrell to hold each buffing wheel. I feel much safer now.

Verbum sat sapentiae (A word to the wise...)

Mark Ost, MD, Pinevillle, MO