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Buffing: how long to wait after lacquer application

Joined
Sep 8, 2015
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Location
Cary, NC
I am experimenting for the first time with buffing and quickly wrecked a little bowl using tripoli on a buffing wheel attached to a drill chuck on my lathe.
It burned right through the coats of lacquer that I applied. I then tried the white (Diamond something) on a new wheel and was very more careful. It did not burn through the lacquer but it did not make the bowl look much different either. I had applied probably 9 light coats of lacquer on the piece and sanded up to 1500 before trying the buffer. I have heard that Tripoli is equivalent to between 400 to 800 grit sandpaper. If that is true would it have been better to skip the tripoli and go right the the white "Diamond" compound?

Thanks very much,
Jim Lee
 
Jim,

As a general rule of thumb, wait until you cannot smell the finish any longer. Than buff away, but use little pressure on the wheels. Let the wheels and the buffing compound to the work while keeping the piece moving at all times.
 
Jim,

As a general rule of thumb, wait until you cannot smell the finish any longer. Than buff away, but use little pressure on the wheels. Let the wheels and the buffing compound to the work while keeping the piece moving at all times.

Great looking web site, Scott. 😀

I have been aware of your work for the past several years, and am always impressed by your creativity. Good luck for the future......

ko
 
I am experimenting for the first time with buffing and quickly wrecked a little bowl using tripoli on a buffing wheel attached to a drill chuck on my lathe.
It burned right through the coats of lacquer that I applied. I then tried the white (Diamond something) on a new wheel and was very more careful. It did not burn through the lacquer but it did not make the bowl look much different either. I had applied probably 9 light coats of lacquer on the piece and sanded up to 1500 before trying the buffer. I have heard that Tripoli is equivalent to between 400 to 800 grit sandpaper. If that is true would it have been better to skip the tripoli and go right the the white "Diamond" compound?

Thanks very much,
Jim Lee

Jim,

Tripoli is a cutting compound that is a naturally occurring mineral that consists mainly of porous, decomposed siliceous rock, or diatomaceous earth, which results from the weathering of chert and siliceous limestone.

White diamond is an intermediate compound that is between cutting and polishing. It is made from tin oxide mixed with a binder wax. While it is finer than tripoli, it still isn't fine enough to be considered a polishing compound. There are several grades of white diamond depending on its fineness. The white diamond that is available to woodturners is the coarsest grade.

Tripoli and white diamond are two of many different cutting and intermediate compounds that are primarily used in metal polishing as preliminary steps before actual buffing.

Buffing compounds include red rouge, yellow rouge, white rouge, black rouge, green rouge, blue rouge, and zam.

If you buy the Beale buffing tools, it includes tripoli, white diamond, and carnauba wax. Carnauba wax is the hardest of all natural waxes. Also the mops in the Beale set are different for each of the three materials. The instructions say to barely use any compound or wax when charging the wheels. Also, no more than very light pressure should be used when using the mops to polish wood.

Having said all that, I am a contrarian who doesn't like and no longer uses that type of polishing for wood. I have had a Beale System for about a dozen years and haven't used it in probably a decade. One reason for my dislike is that loose abrasives are used and while this type of polishing is fine for metal where the compounds can be cleaned up, the loose abrasive embed themselves in wood pores or in soft film finishes and cause discoloring. They also don't level a surface ... they just shine up the surface imperfections. So, if the lacquer finish has orange peel or pinholes or overspray, the polishing mops just shine up those imperfections so that they are more noticeable.
 
Tripoli buffing

Thanks all that was very informative. It sounds like starting out with tripoli on something that I have lacquer finished to over 1000 grit paper would be counter productive. I will wait a while and see if I can see a difference using white diamond. From what I have gathered the ultimate 'dipped in glass' finish is achieved by using a CA super glue based finish, then wax with carnauba.

Thanks very much
Jim Lee
 
Thanks all that was very informative. It sounds like starting out with tripoli on something that I have lacquer finished to over 1000 grit paper would be counter productive. I will wait a while and see if I can see a difference using white diamond. From what I have gathered the ultimate 'dipped in glass' finish is achieved by using a CA super glue based finish, then wax with carnauba.

Thanks very much
Jim Lee

You can get a lacquer finish that is close or equal to a CA finish. Putting carnauba or beeswax on a well done high gloss finish will reduce the finish to a slightly softer gloss. Wax is sometimes used to cover up spider-webbing in a less than perfect high gloss finish, but the effect of masking the super fine scratches is short lived and has to be periodically repeated.

I sometimes use wax over an oil finish for a soft sheen.
 
The secret to a high gloss finish is finishing the wood to a very fine grit with no flaws then applying enough finish to have a smooth flat surface. Then you finish the finish. I've used Lacquer mostly but have done it with Shellac, Minwax wipe on poly and many many coats of boiled linseed oil and a few others that slip my mind. Once you have a really glossy smooth finish you may or may not need the TRipoli it depends on the finish. If it's not already really glossy you use the tripoli to get rid of the last bit of sanding marks. For really glossy finiishes I prefer to have the finish glossy enough that I can skip the tripoli and either go to the white diamond or use hand rubbed automotive finishes to final polish the finish. I typically level the finish with 600 grit. Then step on up to 1200 or 1500 grit and then go to an automotive polish followed by scratch remover for the final finish. In the old days I used PUmice and Rhotenstone but find the automotive finishes easier to use.
 
Polishing compound

I only use lacquer for my finishing. I take it to 400. Bring in indoors where the humidity is low and give it just a couple of days. I use either 3 m white polishing compound or plastic scratch remover and Only polish by hand . Doesn't make it shinier but softens the finish to the touch. Good luck.
 
Auto polish recommendations?

John, Any specific recommendations on auto products?
"...automotive polish followed by scratch remover for the final finish."

Thanks very much,
Jim Lee
 
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