Brass/copper handled tools?

[Matt Meadows]

Howdy all,

I have a nephew that is learning CNC machining at a technical college, and saw the cocobolo handle that I made for my P&N bowl gouge, and said he could make one out of aluminum, brass, or maybe copper-- predrilled 3/8, 3" deep. He also needs a nice subwoofer box for his rusty old S-10 pickup, so we've arranged a nice swap.

Before he goes and makes anything, is there any reason NOT to use a handle made of brass or copper? I've ruled aluminum out from the options, since it's so light it would have no beef to it.

 

[DennisM]

Cool Hands

The cold of metal comes to mind as a negative. Second issue would be the transmission of vibration up to the hands. I have a Bosche metal handle that is wrapped in 1/4 inch of plastic to address the cold and vibration issues. The catalogs seem to also show the metal handles wrapped in some material.

Hope that helps.

 

[Mark Mandell]

Red,

You might take a page from Jerry Glaser's book. The handles on his gouges are aluminum hollowed from both ends but the butt end is plugged because he adds an amount of lead shot to absorb and dampen vibration. I "copied" his idea on the metal handle of my Pro-Form hollower. Made a big difference in how the tool handled 😉

Mark

 

[woodwish]

Aluminum

I would like the idea of aluminum just because it is lightweight. Some of my bigger bowl gouges get awfully heavy after a while. I feel that my hefty frame will give the tool all the weight it needs. The idea above about adding some lead shot does have merit though. I think the metal handles would be more comfortable to use with fingerless gloves, just to get rid of the coldness and help absorb vibration. I use them with wood handles now and they are great to add grip and cushion the vibration.

Let us know how thie works out, I have considered aluminum handles more than once myself (using the neighbors metal lathe).

 

[MichaelMouse]

Howdy all,

I have a nephew that is learning CNC machining at a technical college, and saw the cocobolo handle that I made for my P&N bowl gouge, and said he could make one out of aluminum, brass, or maybe copper-- predrilled 3/8, 3" deep. He also needs a nice subwoofer box for his rusty old S-10 pickup, so we've arranged a nice swap.

Before he goes and makes anything, is there any reason NOT to use a handle made of brass or copper? I've ruled aluminum out from the options, since it's so light it would have no beef to it.

Typical kid, 500 dollar vehicle with a 1000 dollar stereo? Excuse me, "Sound System?"

I think it would be a real thrill to cut frozen wood with bare conductive handles. For the first two and a half minutes. I also abhor gloves on my toolrest hand because of the danger of pinching them and carying the hand with. Majority of hand trauma I've had to deal with involved gloves. Not for me.

No reason in the world that you couldn't wrap them for insulation and vibration isolation, though. That would be my approach. That, and not letting them hang so far out they develop flex and vibration. As to having beef in the handle, might make for a better balanced tool for carrying, but overall keeping leverage in your favor while cutting with a lighter handle should be easier on your arm.

 

[Matt Meadows]

Typical kid, 500 dollar vehicle with a 1000 dollar stereo? Excuse me, "Sound System?"

I think it would be a real thrill to cut frozen wood with bare conductive handles. For the first two and a half minutes. I also abhor gloves on my toolrest hand because of the danger of pinching them and carying the hand with. Majority of hand trauma I've had to deal with involved gloves. Not for me.

No reason in the world that you couldn't wrap them for insulation and vibration isolation, though. That would be my approach. That, and not letting them hang so far out they develop flex and vibration. As to having beef in the handle, might make for a better balanced tool for carrying, but overall keeping leverage in your favor while cutting with a lighter handle should be easier on your arm.

lol,lol Michael, you are dead on about the $500 car $1000 stereo. And the sliding rear window doesn't even lock, so his tunes are "ready for the takin'". He better be glad I'm a Christian or I'd be paying a visit to the pawn shop, and then to WoodCraft. The boy's gonna make something of himself one day, I certainly hope it's sooner than later.

Anyhooo, I appreciate the advice on the weight and cold issues. Here in Charleston SC we're not exactly known for cold weather, and our shop has one helluva heater for the winter time, so cold handles might not be quite as much a problem (5 seconds in front of the torpedo would = nice and warm). I do have a supply of free leather from the auto upholstery shop next to us, so I could wrap it in leather.

Lead shot?? NOT a problem, lol, I have 300-500 pounds of lead ready to use-- I cast my own lead sinkers (old tire weights=free lead alloy). You can melt it quite easily with a $10 single stovetop burner (at least 1000 watts) from WalMart and an old pot.

 

[Jim Ketron]

Here is a handle I made from 3/4" Pipe I wraped it with 1/4" tubing

 

[Mark Mandell]

Hey Red

That's lead SHOT not just lead. It's the weight PLUS the movement of the granules (not filled completely) that absorbs the shock and vibration. I had to buy 25 lbs. of the stuff at a gun shop (smallest quantity they handled). Other option was to buy a box of 10ga bird shells for a shotgun I don't have. 😀

 

[dkulze]

So, Mark. If ya got the bird shells and a shotgun, who would you get to catch the shot down range?

Dietrich 😀

 

[Mark Mandell]

So, Mark. If ya got the bird shells and a shotgun, who would you get to catch the shot down range?

Dietrich 😀

Some Very UNlucky bird.