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bowl finishes

B

Bob Sheppard

Joined
Dec 15, 2017
Messages
271
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166
Location
South Plainfield, NJ
This has probably been dealt with, but what is everyone using for a bowl finish?
The reason I'm asking is that I've used Waterlox for years, but am tired of the smell. I recently tried General Finishes wooturners finish, but it either streaked, or developed runs. I tried using a towel to wipe it on, and also brushing it on. I ended up sanding it off, and applied Myland's friction polish.
Any suggestions on how to apply the turners finish, or what else to try?
Thanks.
 
Hello Bob, I use Danish Oil and Beall 3 way buffing system. For me, that works real well. On occasion I use my own receipt of friction polish. I have used WOP but not very often. Sometimes if I'm looking for a soft sheen on a bowl I sand it to 1000 g and then just buff it with the Beall system.
 
I have a love/hate relationship with WTF. It drys quickly, and provides a solid finish (I have a couple cereal bowls that have stood up well to Year’s of use).

But...application is difficult.

My method is to wipe on a thin coat with a Scott’s rag, and do it again and again. Typically about 6-7 coats. Good news is each coat drys completely in about 5 mins, bad news is it starts to dry in about 30 seconds. So I soak a rag and wipe it all quickly and put it on a nail bed. The last few coats I only do inside or outside of the bowl at a time so I’m not handling a semi cured coat.

Net result is a glossy finish and hat holds up well.

Like I said, I like it but... Therefore my go-to finish is Watco for simplicity.
 
I''m not out there selling functional bowls. Most of mine are either put on a shelf or people put them on the table with showing things inside. So I use Minwax wipe on poly. 2 or 3 coats and then buff with the beal and I get a nice glossy but not thick looking finish. I get compliments from club members all the time on my finishes but really it's just a matter of sanding carefully up to 400 grit for most woods and then apply enough finish to get just a little build. Looks pretty good like that but the Beale takes it a step further. It seems to hold up well. For user bowls I use Mahoney's Walnut oil with a few more coats and then buff. Not as glossy but a nice looking finish. If I use Mahoney's wax as the last coat you get a bowl that also feels incredible.
 
Bob Sheppard said:
i'm going to have to sneak my buffing wheels into the washer while my wife is out sometime. I used them last to buff some steel..
Click to expand...
Not necessary to wash them. Use sandpaper or wire brush when the wheel is turning and then ready to use. If you use very low grit 60 or 80 , use a board as backer and works great to clean the buff
 
Bob Sheppard said:
What is everyone using for a bowl finish?
The reason I'm asking is that I've used Waterlox for years...
Click to expand...

I’m a long-time user of phenolic varnishes. Behlen’s Rock Hard Tabletop varnish used to be my go-to but then they changed it to a urethane (?) resin and it changed the whole character of the product — smell being the first downside for me. I then found Epifanes at West Marine — but alas, it too has gone the way of synthetics ( I think, because they used to list ingredients as phenolic but now it’s “Traditional Alkyd”.

Just recently I became aware of Le Tonkinois and ordered a small can. It has a good history, the smell isn’t bad, and it builds pretty quickly when wiping straight from the can. http://www.tarsmell.com/letonkinois_original.html I think I’m going to like it, which means the powers that be will soon be changing it!
 
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Owen Lowe said:
I’m a long-time user of phenolic varnishes. Behlen’s Rock Hard Tabletop varnish used to be my go-to but then they changed it to a synthetic (urethane?) resin and it changed the whole character of the product — smell being the first downside for me. I then found Epifanes at West Marine — but alas, it too has gone the way of synthetics ( I think, because they used to list ingredients as phenolic but now it’s “Traditional Alkyd”.

Just recently I became aware of Le Tonkinois and ordered a small can. It has a good history, the smell isn’t bad, and it builds a pretty quickly when wiping straight from the can. http://www.tarsmell.com/letonkinois_original.html I think I’m going to like it, which means the powers that be will soon be changing it!
Click to expand...

That looks interesting. I'm going to bookmark that site. Thanks.
 
I'm also using Watco Danish oil and the Beall buffing method. Pretty hard to not get something very nice with these......a very natural look to it. It's not a glass-like sort of shine......never did like that too much. I've tried just about everything in the past, but using the DO+BB for most of this century anyway. Nothing wrong with something that is easy to do......matter of fact, it's a very likable solution! :D

-----odie-----
 
I used to use walnut oil, but my experience with that is that it starts tacking up after a year or so of a bowl being on a shelf. Even with a single light coat. I've used pure Danish oils (no thinners, driers, etc.) for the last year. I won't bore anyway with details, but send me a message if you want to hear more.

Going into testing on a 3 ingredient tung oil finish that a friend with a chemistry background has been cooking up for 20 years. I know that tung oil has a bad rap for being toxic, but my research suggests that refers to the metal driers in many mixes, not the oil itself.
 
Zach LaPerriere said:
I used to use walnut oil, but my experience with that is that it starts tacking up after a year or so of a bowl being on a shelf. Even with a single light coat. I've used pure Danish oils (no thinners, driers, etc.) for the last year. I won't bore anyway with details, but send me a message if you want to hear more.

Going into testing on a 3 ingredient tung oil finish that a friend with a chemistry background has been cooking up for 20 years. I know that tung oil has a bad rap for being toxic, but my research suggests that refers to the metal driers in many mixes, not the oil itself.
Click to expand...
Zach, please bore me! lol. I would like to hear more about it... I'm sure I'm not the only one. Aloha
 
I tried Watco along with Minwax wipe on Poly. Can't remember now why I went with the Minwax over the Watco. May have to do that test again. I think it might have been because I can get the Minwax locally. Have to drive 100 miles to get the Watco. I have troubles with both of them starting to gel by the time I get about half a can.
 
I don't think there is one finish for all. I personally like polyurethane for most things. In the summer when the temp. is above 65 degrees I like to spray my bowls with polyurethane, in the winter when the max temp. in the shop is below 65 degrees I use WOP. I have at different times tried different finishes and mostly come back to poly. It is strong like it doesn't scratch or sand through easily, it looks good and the amount of shine can be controlled by how many coats of finish is used. Some wood is more porous like walnut and a sanding filler or shellac does good as a first coat of two but I like the final coat to be poly. Lacquer gives a good looking finish, a little softer than poly, but it isn't as strong or durable as poly. I know it can easily be redone but I doubt many do that. Finishing is something that can't be agreed upon because different people have different opinions on what they like. This is good so let me say "I like poly" but not in every situation.
 
I'm the least experienced of any finish because I've tried them all. I like WOP for many of my bowls. one not mentioned (unless I missed it) is MinWax Antique Oil. I seem to prefer that over Danish Oil. I also used Watch Butcher Block finish that is same as Salad Bowl finish or very close. It is expensive, but has the same FDA approval. Pete Marken recently shared his method for finishes min general and has given me some ideas along with following his recommendations, thanks Pete. I have walnut oil, but resident to try it because of drying. I also have the Beall buffing system, but I haven't mastered it. I have the most success with WOP and Antique oil.
 
John, FedX saves that 100mi drive. Try stoplossbags.com to prevent gelling, they work great (no affiliation othe than happy user for 3+ yrs.
 
We don't have a Home Depot in our area, just Lowes and a few hardware stores. Not f them carry it. I am tempted to try the Stoploss bags. I tried a couple of other plastic products over the years and they did not work.
 
John, the Lowes here carrives the Watco Danish Oil. You might check to see if they have a ship to store. Around $9.00 here for qt. However the MinWax Antique Oil is similar and I think it dries quicker. I prefer that over the Watco.
 
Emiliano Achaval said:
Zach, please bore me! lol. I would like to hear more about it... I'm sure I'm not the only one. Aloha
Click to expand...

Alright...thanks for the encouragement Emiliano. So I've tested pure Danish Oil on about 100 bowls. It's the Tried and True brand. Danish oil is a polymerized linseed oil. This isn't the toxic stuff sold at hardware store with driers and solvents that has a penchant for molding and causing human sensitivities.

I like it. It's a pain in the rear to apply, because you have to put it on in thin layers with proper drying time in between. I go a little heavy, wait an hour or more, then wipe it down dry with a dry rag. Tried and True recommends 0000 steel wool in between coats, but I've been mostly lazy and ony done this on a handful of bowls. At least two coats. My use of Danish oil so far suggests that it's far superior to walnut oil for hardiness to water. I've had it on my wood counters for a few years, and it benefits from reapplying once every 9-12 months...which is pretty impressive considering I have three boys who do dishes on a doug fir counter.

I've also used the Tried and True Original finish which includes beeswax, but the finish is much thicker and seems better to apply in a really warm room. Tried and True suggests it might be a little better for wood with water contact.

I suppose my conclusion is that pure Danish oil is great stuff, but a lot of work for a full-time bowl guy. My customers demand food grade, and I hear all the time "No synthetics". So I'm on the look out for more natural solutions that are easy to apply and easy for customers to renew.

One more thing to elaborate on. I've stopped using walnut oil because:
1. walnut oil doesn't last very long, at least not on my woods. It wears off, and a utility bowls looses any visible finish quickly.
2. a walnut oil finish on a bowl that sits as an art piece tends to get a bit sticky over time, at least in the softer woods I turn. And yes, I've tried everything down to single very light coats. It looks great at first, but leave it on a shelf for a year, and it gets a little sticky. I've talked with other turners who haven't had this happen, but I've also talked to those who have.
3: applying too much walnut oil is a guaranteed disaster. It dries on the surface and then leaks back through, giving a finish that is almost like rubber cement. I know how to apply it (at least I think I do) but my customers won't necessarily...so despite my previous enthusiasm for walnut oil, I'm retiring it.

I want to be VERY CLEAR: that the walnut oil problems I've had are just my own. I suspect that walnut oil is a suitable oil for harder woods—otherwise it wouldn't be so popular. My experience with hundreds of softwood and softer hardwood bowls is that it's not for me. It's too bad, because it sure is easy to apply and it looks great at first. It buffs nicely if you like.
 
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